Chapter 16 - Standard Esthetics
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| anaphoresis | process of desincrustation or forcing negative liquids into the tissues from the negative toward the positive pole
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| anaphoresis | process of ionic penetration that is an alkaline, stimulating action
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| electrophoresis | occurs because particles dispersed in a fluid almost always carry an electric surface charge
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| cataphoresis | process of forcing positive, acidic substances into deeper tissues using a galvanic current from the positive toward the negative pole
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| cataphoresis | process of ionic penetration that tightens and calms the skin
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| desincrustation | galvanic current is used to create an alkaline chemical reaction that emulsifies or liquefies sebum and debris
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| electrotherapy | the use of electrical devices for therapeutic benefits
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| galvanic current | a constant and direct current; uses a positive and negative pole to produce chemical reactions and ionic reactions
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| high-frequency machine | apparatus that utilizes alternating or sinusoidal current to produce a mild to strong heat effect
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| high-frequency | is a Telsa current, sometimes called voilet ray
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| Nikola Telsa | United States electrical engineer and inventor (born in Croatia but of Serbian descent) who discovered the principles of alternating currents(1856-1943)
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| ion | an atom or molecule that carries an electrical charge
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| ion | an atom or molecule which has lost or gained one or more electrons, giving it a positive or negative electrical charge
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| ionization | the physical process of converting an atom or molecule into an ion by adding or removing charged particles such as electrons or other ions
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| ionization | the process of separating of a substance into ions
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| iontophoresis | classified use of transdermal drug delivery
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| iontophoresis | process of introducing ions of water-soluble products into the skin using an electric current such as a positive and negative poles of a galvanic machine
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| anode; cathode | the positively charged chamber, termed the _____ will repel a positively charged chemical, while the negatively charged chamber, termed the _____, will repel a negatively charged chemical into the skin
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| Lucas sprayer | atomizer designed to apply plant extracts and other ingredients to the skin
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| rotary brush | machine used to lightly exfoliate and stimulate the skin
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| rotary brush | machine used to help soften excess oil, dirt, and cell buildup
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| saponification | chemical reaction during desincrustation where the current transforms the sebum into soap
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| sinusoidal current | alternating current similar to faradic current
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| sinusoidal current | current that produces mechanical contractions and is used during scalp and facial manipulations
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| spray machine | spray misting device
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| thermolysis | has a heat effect
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| thermolysis | used for permanent hair removal
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| vacuum machine | also suction machine, device that vacuums/suctions the skin to remove impurities and stimulate circulation
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| suction machine | also vacuum machine, device that vacuums/suctions the skin to remove impurities and stimulate circulation
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| Wood's lamp | filtered black light that is used to illuminate skin disorders, fungi, bacterial disorders, and pigmentation
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| anaphoresis | negative pole (cathode); causes an alkaline reaction
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| anaphoresis | negative pole (cathode); softens and relaxes tissue
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| anaphoresis | negative pole (cathode); stimulates nerve endings
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| anaphoresis | negative pole (cathode); increases blood circulation
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| cataphoresis | positive pole (anode); causes an acid reaction
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| cataphoresis | positive pole (anode; tightens the skin
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| cataphoresis | positive pole (anode); calms or soothes nerve endings
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| cataphoresis | positive pole (anode); decreases blood circulation
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| The __________ of a product is also a factor in permeability | molecular weight
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| permeability | a measure of how easily a fluid (e.g., water) can pass through a porous medium (skin)
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| Smaller molecules have a greater _____, while larger molecules _____ into the skin | penetration ability; cannot penetrate
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| If neither a negative nor positive polarity is indicated for an ampoule, as a general rule the esthetician should first use the _____ pole and then the _____ pole. | negative; positive
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| Products that have a slightly acidic pH are considered | positive
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| Products with an alkaline (or base) tendency are considered _____ | negative
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| Producst with an alkaline tendency (negative) are used for? | desincrustation
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| This process allows estheticians to transfer, or penetrate, ions of an applied solution into deeper layers of the skin. | iontophoresis/cataphoresis
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| universal laws of attraction | negative attracts positive and vice versa
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| iontophoresis | creates an exchange of negative and positive ions or charges
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| If a product is positive, the client and esthetician will use... | opposite electrodes
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| An alkaline-based electronegative solution is placed onto the skin's surface to perform | desincrustation
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| When the electrical current interacts with the salts (sodium chloride) in the skin it creates a chemical know as _____ - or lye | sodium hydroxide
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| this function is thought to help reduce the appearance of creases (laugh lines) and improve the overall appearance of the skin | vacuum (suction)
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| What are the two main functions of the vacuum (suction) machine? | 1)remove (suction) dirt and impurities from the skin, and 2) to simulate the dermal layer and blood circulation
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| When using the steamer, steam should be kept _____ inches from the face | 15 to 18
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| To avoid harming the client's skin, suction should not be used on _____, _____, or _____ skin. | inflamed, rosacea, cuperose
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| What step can be used instead of using the vacuum (suction) machine? | massage
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| Ordinary oxygen in the atmosphere consists of _____ oxygen atoms. | 2
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| Ozone consists of ______ oxygen atoms and has _____ qualities. | 3; anticeptic
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| Ozone molecules have the power to kill _____ and other _____. | bacteria; microorganisms
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| ozone | a strong oxidizer that creates free radicals
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| Too much steam should not be used on _____ or ____ skin because it _____, causing more redness and irritation. | couperose,inflamed; dialates the capillaries and follicles
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| to avoid damaging or further irritating the skin, do not use brushes or suction devices on | acne, couperose, or inflamed skin
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| a thick corneum layer appears as _____ under the Wood's lamp | white florescence
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| a horny layer of dead skin cells appears as _____ under the Wood's lamp | white spots
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| normal, healthy skin appears as _____ under the Wood's lamp | blue-white
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| dehydrated skin appears as _____ under the Wood's lamp | light violet
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| oily areas of the face/comedones appear as _____ under the Wood's lamp | yellow or sometimes pink
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| pigmentation problems appear as _____ under the Wood's lamp: | brown
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| contraindications for electrotherapy | heart patients, clients with pacemakers, metal implants, preganant clients, clients with epilepsy or seizure disorders, clients who are afraid of electric current, those with open or broken skin.
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| Electrical devices enhance a facial by making it easier to give a _____, _____, and _____ | skin analysis; achieve better product penetration; sanitize the skin
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