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Pivot Point Thirteen

Chapter Thirteen Color

Temporarily by adding color pigment that shampoos out (immediately or overtime)
Permanently either by adding or removing color pigment
Color is the visual perception of reflection of light.
Wavelengths also called electromagnetic waves traveling through space
Pure Colors Yellow,red, and blue called primary colors
Secondary Colors orange,green, and violet: result when primary colors are mixed in varing proportions: orange contains varying amounts of red and yellow: green contains varying proportions of blue and yellow, and violet contains varying proportion of red and blue
Tertiary Colors Mixing a primary color with its neighboring secondary color in varying proportions makes teritary colors.
Color-Wheel is a 12-hue color circle that is created from the three primary colors, yellow, red and blue.
Name of a color also referred to as tone or hue
Tone of hair color can be described as warm, cool or neutral
Complementary Colors colors found opposite one another on the color wheel referred to as complementary colors
Neutral Colors colors that donot exhibit warm or cool tones
Value/Level is the degree of lightness or darkness of a color, relative to itself and to other colors.
Level System is a numbering system that identifies the lightness or darkness of hair colors:Level one the darkest level, the lightes hair colors are leve twelve
The darkest of the three primary colors blue
Medium of the three primary colors red
lightest of the three primary colors yellow
Final color results Contributing pigment & Artificial pigment
Melanin pigment that gives hair its natural color
Three layers of the hair cuticle, the cortex and medulla
Melanocytes produce small egg-shaped structures called melansomes
Black pigment Eumelanin
Red pigment Pheomelanin
apply one level lighter if the client has approximately 25%-30% gray hair
apply one level darker if the client has approximately (75%-80%)high percentage of gray hair
resistant hair you may need to pre-soften or pre-lighten the hair first by mixing and applying a lighter shade to make it porous enough to receive the final color application
Light level of hair 12-Palest Blonde 11-Lightest Blonde 10-very light blonde 9-light blonde
Medium level of hair 8-medium light blonde 7-medium blonde 6-dark blonde 5-light brown
Dark level of hair 4-medium brown 3-medium dark brown 2-dark brown 1-black
Base Color identifies the warmth, coolness or neutrality of a color
lessened or neutralized the intensity of an artificial hair coloring by adding a complementary color or it can be increased or strengthened by adding a concentrated color such as yellow, red, blue, green or violet
Texture the degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair fiber
Porosity refers to the ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals.
Resistant porosity the cuticle layers are smooth, tightly packed and compact
Average porosity the cuticle is slightly raised thereby accepting color products easily
Extreme porosity the condition in which the cuticle is lifted or missing
filler may be required to equalize porosity throughout the hair strand prior to the color service to ensure even color absorption.
Contributing pigment determine the client's existing level and time
Artificial Pigment determine the client's desired level and tone
Final color result choose the color formula
Non-oxidative colors not mixed with developer- Temporary/Semi-permanent
Oxidative colors (mixed with developer)long lasting semi-permanent (demi-permanent)permanent, toners, and fillers
Lighteners on-the scalp & off-the scalp
other color products vegetable, metallic,and compound dyes
non-oxidative colors add pigment but do not lighten the existing hair color.
Temporary colors as the name implies, are used to create temporary color changes that last from shampoo to shampoo. also known as color rinses.weekly rinses,color mousses and gels, color crayon, mascaras, pomades, spray-on colors and color-enhancing shampoos and cond.
semi-permanent colors deposit color and cannot lighten the hair.
oxidative colors deposit color or lift (lighten) and deposit color in a single-process technique
long-lasting semi-permanent (demi-permanent) oxidative colors without ammonia
permanent colors oxidative colors with ammonia
oxidative colors are not designed to lift or lighten artificial pigment
color removers and dye solvents, are designed to lift artificial pigment
long lasting semi-permanent (demi-permanent) low volume of hydrogen peroxide, last 4 to 6 weeks contain very little ammonia also known as demi-permanent
permanent colors are mixed with hydrogen peroxide they are sometimes called oxidative tints with ammonia or aniline derivative tints. Paraphenylenediamine and Paratoluenediamine are two types of dye intermediates which can be found in permanent tints.
alert since permanent colors contain aniline derivatives, a predisposition test (patch test) is required
toners are light pastel colors used to add warmness or coolness to prelightened hair
fillers provide an even base color by filling in porous damaged or abused areas with materials such as protein or polymers. They equalized the porosity of the hair and deposit a base color in one application
concentrates, intensifiers and drabbers are names given to products designed to increase the vibrancy of a color formula or to neutralized unwanted tones from the contributing pigment
lighteners also known as bleach are used to decolorize remove or diffuse pigment
degrees of decolorization as natural hair is lightened the eumelanin and pheomelanin pigments are decolorized and the hair goes through degrees of decolorization or stages of lightening
double-process if the desired color result is different from what can be achieved with decolorizing alone, color can be applied to recolorize the hair to the shade desired
on-the-scalp lighteners are mild enough to be applied directly on the scalp and are available in two form: oil and cream
off-the-scalp lighteners come in powder form and, when mixed with hydrogen peroxide, become a strong lightening product
re-colorizing taking the decolorization process one step further by recolorizing the hair will enable you to see the role the contributing pigment plays on the final color result.
developers with a pH of 2.5 to 4.5 are oxidizing agents used with demi-permanent and permanent color, lighteners and toners.
Hydrogen peroxide (H2o2) is the most commonly used developer (oxidizing agent) in hair coloring products
ALERT! increasing the strength of hydrogen peroxide in a formula beyond th manufacturer's recommendations may cause damage to the hair and chemical burns to the skin and scalp
metal bowl mixing hydrogen peroxide in a metal bowl may cause it to become weak, therefore always mix the formula in a glass or plastic bowl
least common coloring products vegetable, metallic and compound dyes
basic you are looking at a color design and identifying if what you see is a light, medium or dark hair color
detail looking a bit closer will help you identify the family of hair color and the warmth or coolness of the hair
abstract at the abstract level, you imagine the placement of color to create the effects you see.
sculpted form may serve as an inspriation for color placement
existing/desired level identifying the existing and desired levels and where to position lights and/darks can be an easy way to think about color placement before thinking about the design in color
zonal patterns are patterns that subdivide the head into multiple areas to create a color design with a combination of colors
coloring within shapes aside from subdividing the head into zones, shapes are used to create color designs or patterns.
color application techniques are described according to the placement of color along the strand: base, midstrand, ends or any combination.
base to ends (darker result) a base-to-ends application is used when you want to add tone to or darken the existing color along the entire strand. A base-to-ends application is also known as a virgin darker technique
midstrand to ends then base (lighter result) the midstrand-to-ends-then-base technique is used to lighten the existing color by applying the new color or lightener to the midstrand,generally 1/2"(1.25)away from the scalp. The midstrand-to-ends-thenbase application is also known as a virgin lightener
base(retouch) a base application is used for a retouch color service
dimensional coloring involves the positioning of highlights and/or lowlights (lights and/or darks) on the surface of the hair or to selected strands throughout the design to create special effects
highlighting making isolated strands lighter
lowlighting making isolated strands darker
weaving and slicing techniques are generally used to add depth and dimesion to the existing hair color
freeform painting is a technique in which a tool is used to strategically position color or lightener on the hair. also known as surface painting
end lights dimensional coloring can also be achieved by lightening only the ends of the hair
cap method a crochet hook is used to pull hair strands through a perforated cap
retouch for dimensional coloring techniques retouch applications will vary depending upon the degree of contrast between the color-treated hair and the non-treated hair and the rate at which the hair grows. Dimensional coloring will usually require a retouch application anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks
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