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4.02 Fashion Textile
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Applied Casing | an enclosure, fabric tunnel, typically around the waistline, made to enclose a drawstring or elastic created by folding over by externally connecting an application. |
| Backstitching | In machine sewing the stitch back over stitches to lock them in place. Occurs at the beginning and end of a seam. |
| Basting | : a technique of temporarily holding layers of fabrics together, by using longer stitches – 6-8 stitches per inch, until the fabric layers are permanently stitched. Basting is sometimes also called tacking. |
| Buttons | a small knob or disk secured to an article (as of clothing) and used as a fastener by passing it through a buttonhole or loop. |
| Casing | A tunnel or tube of fabric for enclosing a drawstring or elastic. |
| Chain of | Continuing to serge after reaching the end of the fabric for 3”– 6” to create a chain or tail. This prevents the serger from jamming or unthreading itself and leaves a tail to tie off or bury. |
| Clipping | cutting slits equal distance apart and equal depths into the seam allowance. This is done on all seams with an inside or concave curve to prevent bunching and promote a smooth finish. |
| Double-Pointed Dart | also called fish-eyed dart and body dart. Mostly this darts is used for jackets and dresses that fit at waist. Double pointed dart is sharp and narrow at both the ends. |
| Edge stitching | a row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, normally ⅛” or less from the edge. It provides a crisp edge for facings, collars, pockets or any situation where you want a tight, professional finish along a seamed edge. |
| Eyelets | a small round hole in leather or cloth for threading a lace, string, or rope through. |
| Fabric Easing | a method of taking the excess length of one fabric and trying to evenly distribute that excess throughout the length of the shorter piece as you're pinning them together. |
| Finish | Any sewing technique used to prevent the raw edge of fabric from fraying, curling, rolling, or stretching. |
| Flat-felled seam | a strong seam with two lines of stitching showing on the right side that is produced by folding one raw edge under the other and stitching it flat or slip-stitching it on the wrong side. |
| French seam | a strong seam stitched on both sides of the fabric to enclose all raw edges. |
| Fused Hem | uses fusible hem tape or webbing to bond and keep the hem allowance edge folded towards the wrong side of the garment. This method falls in the category of no-sew finishes. |
| Fusible Interfacing | by far the easiest interfacing to use, especially for beginners. It has an adhesive on one side which bonds permanently with the fabric when applied with an iron, due to the combination of heat and steam. |
| Gathering | the act of bundling up a portion of fabric to fit onto a smaller, pre-measured length of fabric, thus creating fullness. |
| Grading | the process of turning a standard seam allowance into layered tiers of fabric. The result is less bulk, which means a smoother finish from the right side. |
| Hook & Bar | a popular choice for the closure on tailored trousers, skirts and other garments. It is an alternative to a button closure, particularly where a clean, minimal look is required. |
| Hook & Loop Tape/Velcro™ | a two-component fastening system comprised of the hook: the rough, scratchy side, and the loop: the soft, fuzzy side. |
| Hooks & Eye | a fastening for clothes consisting of a small hook hooked onto a small metal or thread loop. |
| Interfacing | An apparel product that adds stability and stiffness to collars, waistbands, bags, cuffs, lapels, and under buttons and buttonholes. |
| Lockstitch | A stitch made by a sewing machine by firmly linking together two threads or stitches. |
| Machine Blind Hem | method of folding and stitching, you can create a machine stitched hem that is nearly invisible from the outside. |
| Machine Zig-zagged seam finish |