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4.02 Fashion txts.
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Applied Casing | an enclosure, fabric tunnel, around the waistline, made to enclose a drawstring or elastic created by folding over by externally connecting an application. The product resembles an elastic band or a tie. Ankle, waist, and wrist casings are common. |
| Backstitching | In machine sewing the stitch back over stitches to lock them in place. Occurs at the beginning and end of a seam. |
| Basting | a technique of temporarily holding layers of fabrics together, by using longer stitches – 6-8 stitches per inch, until the fabric layers are permanently stitched. Basting is sometimes also called tacking. |
| Buttons | a small knob or disk secured to an article (as of clothing) and used as a fastener by passing it through a buttonhole or loop. |
| Casing | A tunnel or tube of fabric for enclosing a drawstring or elastic. |
| Chain off | Continuing to serge after reaching the end of the fabric for 3”– 6” to create a chain or tail. This prevents the serger from jamming or unthreading itself and leaves a tail to tie off or bury. |
| Clipping | Cutting small slits into a seam allowance along an inside curve to help the fabric lie flat. |
| Double-Pointed Dart | also called fish-eyed dart and body dart. Mostly this darts is used for jackets and dresses that fit at waist. Double pointed dart is sharp and narrow at both the ends. |
| Edge stitching | a row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, normally ⅛” or less from the edge. It provides a crisp edge for facings, collars, pockets or any situation where you want a tight, professional finish along a seamed edge. |
| Eyelets | a small round hole in leather or cloth for threading a lace, string, or rope through. |
| Fabric Easing | Distributing extra fabric evenly along a shorter piece so the seam lies smoothly without gathers or puckers. |
| Finish | Any sewing technique used to prevent the raw edge of fabric from fraying, curling, rolling, or stretching. |
| Flat-felled seam | a strong seam with two lines of stitching showing on the right side that is produced by folding one raw edge under the other and stitching it flat or slip-stitching it on the wrong side. |
| French seam | a strong seam stitched on both sides of the fabric to enclose all raw edges. |
| Fused Hem | uses fusible hem tape or webbing to bond and keep the hem allowance edge folded towards the wrong side of the garment. This method falls in the category of no-sew finishes. |
| Fusible Interfacing | by far the easiest interfacing to use, especially for beginners. It has an adhesive on one side which bonds permanently with the fabric when applied with an iron, due to the combination of heat and steam. |
| Gathering | Pulling long stitches to draw fabric together and create fullness. |
| Grading | the process of turning a standard seam allowance into layered tiers of fabric. The result is less bulk, which means a smoother finish from the right side. Grading a seam removes bulk and allows the seam to sit a little flatter on your finished garment. |
| Hook & Bar | a popular choice for the closure on tailored trousers, skirts and other garments. It is an alternative to a button closure, particularly where a clean, minimal look is required. |
| Hook & Loop Tape/Velcro™ | A fastener with a rough hook side and a soft loop side that stick together when pressed. |
| Hooks & Eye | a fastening for clothes consisting of a small hook hooked onto a small metal or thread loop. |
| Interfacing | An apparel product that adds stability and stiffness to collars, waistbands, bags, cuffs, lapels, and under buttons and buttonholes |
| Lockstitch | A stitch made by a sewing machine by firmly linking together two threads or stitches |
| Machine Blind Hem | method of folding and stitching, you can create a machine stitched hem that is nearly invisible from the outside. |
| Machine Zig-zagged seam finish | using a zigzag function on your straight stitch machine and is stitched over the edge of the raw edges to prevent fraying. |
| Non-fusible Interfacing | interfacings that do not have adhesive and must be sewn by hand or machine. |
| Notching | Cutting small wedge-shaped pieces from seam allowances on outside curves to reduce bulk and help the fabric lie flat. |
| Nylon Tape | Used for reinforcing lines and points of weaknesses, particularly straps and top lines. |
| Overlock (Serged) seam finish | A finish made with an overlock machine that stitches over fabric edges to help prevent fraying. |
| Pinked and stitched seam finish | Trimming the seam allowance with pinking shears and adding stitches near the edge to help prevent fraying. |
| Plain seam | the simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any item. A plain seam is defined as any seam that attaches two pieces of fabric together with the wrong sides facing. |
| Reinforcement stitching | a short stitch – 15- 20 stitches per inch, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other, used to add strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as an armhole, crotch and corners. |
| Rolled Hem | A very narrow hem that rolls the fabric edge inward, often used on lightweight fabrics. |
| Seam | Row or line of stitching resulting in holding two layers of fabric together. |
| Seam Finishes | Any method that stitches or trims seam allowances to prevent fraying, improve strength and apparel appearance. |
| Self-Casing | A fabric tunnel made by folding the garment's own fabric edge over to hold elastic or a drawstring. |
| Sew through button | A type of button with two (2) or four (4) holes that the thread passes through. |
| Shank button | A type of button that has a loop or protrusion on the back that allows the button to be attached to fabric. |
| Single-Pointed Dart | most common dart mostly used on skirts at waist and trousers and blouses at bust. The single dart is narrow at one end and wide at the other. With the triangular shape of an angle with single dart point and two dart lines. |
| Slip-stitched Hem | a continuous stitch, especially for a hem, in which the needle is put through the folded part of the hem, picking up a few threads of the fabric on the inside, so as to be invisible on the outside. |
| Snap | a pair of interlocking discs, made out of a metal or plastic, commonly used in place of traditional buttons to fasten clothing and for similar purposes. |
| Snap Tape | A strip of fabric with attached snap fasteners that can be sewn onto clothing or other items. |
| Specialty stitches | most machines have a variety of these specialty stitches that add a decorative aspect to sewn garments or items. |
| Standard seam stitching | 5/8 inch plain seam line sewn to join two pieces of fabric together. |
| Standard stitching | the basic straight stitch used by every sewing machine for normal seams and joining two pieces of fabric together. This basic straight stitch length may change to suit different weights and types of fabric but is commonly 10 to 12 stitches per inch. |
| Stay-stitching | a line of stitching sewn around an edge (such as an armhole) of a garment being made in order to prevent the cloth from stretching. |
| Stitch length | A dial or button on a sewing machine that increases or decreases the length of the stitches. |
| Stitch width | A dial or button on a sewing machine that increases or decreases the width of a stitch. It can also move the needle from left to right. |
| Stitch-in-the-ditch | Sewing directly along an existing seam line so the stitches are difficult to see. |
| Topstitching | make a row of continuous stitches on the top or right side of a garment or other article as a decorative feature. |
| Trimming | refers to reducing a seam allowance to prevent bulk. Seam allowances of enclosed seams should be trimmed to an even width, usually ¼ inch. The corner of a seam should be trimmed diagonally to remove extra thickness when the corner is turned. |
| Turned and Stitched Hem | a garment finishing method, where the edge of a piece of cloth is folded and sewn to prevent unravelling of the fabric and to adjust the length of the piece in garments, such as at the end of the sleeve or the bottom of the garment. |
| Turned-and-stitched seam finish | a quick finish that will keep your raw edge tucked under and out of sight. Fold the edge of your seam allowance under 1/8 inch, press, and stitch close to the folded edge. This finish is best for light to medium weight wovens, course weaves, and tweeds. |
| Understitching | Stitches sewn through a facing and seam allowance to help keep the facing rolled toward the inside of the garment. |
| Zigzag stitching | a geometric side to side stitch used for seam finishing, button hole creation, decorative sewing and sewing stretch fabric. |
| Zipper | a device consisting of two flexible strips of metal or plastic with interlocking projections closed or opened by pulling a slide along them, used to fasten garments, bags, and other items. |
| 4-thread overlock stitch | A stitch used by a basic serger with upper looper, lower looper, right needle, and left needle. These 4-threads create a stitch that sews and overlocks the edge at the same time. |
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