Chapter 20 Milady cosmetology
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show | Base cream
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Hydroxide relaxer are usually sold in ________ and ________ formulas | show 🗑
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_________ relaxers are intended for use on color-treated, damaged, or fine hair | show 🗑
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The action of a guanidine hydroxide, or no lye, relaxer causes the hair to ______ and ______ | show 🗑
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show | Metal hydroxide relaxers
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show | Lanthionization
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Before giving a relaxing treatment to curly hair the cosmetologist must perform an analysis of the client's hair and scalp, testing for ________ and ________ on several areas of the head | show 🗑
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show | Viscosity
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What are the three most common types of chemical hair relaxers? | show 🗑
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What process permanently rearranges the basic structure of curly hair into a straight or smoother form? | show 🗑
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show | Conditioner is applied
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After saturating the rods with neutralizer in a soft curl permanent and processing according to manufacturer's directions, the next step is to _________. | show 🗑
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When using the comb method of application, how is the relaxing cream applied? | show 🗑
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show | Soft curl permanent
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Keratin straightening treatments work by fixing the keratin in place in a _____ manner: they do not break bonds | show 🗑
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When hair has sufficiently straightened, the hair is rinsed rapidly and thoroughly with _________ water | show 🗑
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show | Rinsed
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One safety precaution for hair relaxing is to avoid ______ the scalp with the comb or fingernails. | show 🗑
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What is one safety precaution that must be followed with all chemical hair relaxing services? | show 🗑
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show | Sodium hydroxide
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A hair relaxing treatment should be avoided when an examination shows the presence of _________. | show 🗑
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The best type of shampoo to use after the chemical relaxer is a ____________ | show 🗑
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What product is used to restore the hair to a normal acidic pH? | show 🗑
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The product is applied first to the ________ when performing a sodium hydroxide retouch. | show 🗑
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When applying hydroxide relaxer on virgin hair, the processing cream is applied last to the _____and __________ | show 🗑
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To check relaxer processing, smooth and press a strand to the scalp using the back of the comb or your finger. If they curl returns, ____________ | show 🗑
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Inspecting the action of the relaxer by smoothing and pressing the strand to the scalp is called _________ | show 🗑
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show | Strong or super
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If using a "no base" relaxer, a protective cream may be applied __________ | show 🗑
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show | Mild
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Application of the relaxer for a retouch begins in the most resistant areas, usually at the back of the head or _________ | show 🗑
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show | Potential hydrogen
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show | The size of the rod
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show | Chemical Texture services
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show | Highly Alkaline
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show | Potassium hydroxide relaxers
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show | Stress and tension on hair
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Rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area are | show 🗑
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what are disulfide bonds? | show 🗑
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show | AKA straight set wrap
Perm wrapping technique in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized base. All the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width of the rod
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What are straight rods? | show 🗑
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What are concave rods? | show 🗑
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show | Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
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What is a double flat wrap ? | show 🗑
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What is a spiral perm wrap? | show 🗑
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show | An oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing
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What is base cream also known as? | show 🗑
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What is bookend wrap? | show 🗑
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show | AKA piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the opposite direction.
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show | Thioglycolic acid
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show | Relaxers that require the application of a protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
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show | Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream
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show | Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
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What are endothermic waves? | show 🗑
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What is on- base placement? | show 🗑
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show | Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
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show | No-base relaxers
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show | Circle rod
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show | Sodium= Na
Potassium= K
Lithium=Li
Oxygen=O
Hydrogen=H
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What are perms rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area? | show 🗑
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show | Keratin proteins
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What is the basic permanent wrap also known as? | show 🗑
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show | Endothermic waves
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What is the name of an oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing ? | show 🗑
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What is the least amount of time you should spend rinsing out a perm? | show 🗑
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show | Alkaline permanent waving solutions soften and swell the hair, and open the cuticle permitting the solution to penetrate the cortex. pH of 9.4
Acid- balanced permanent waves there is less swelling of the cuticle. pH of 7.5
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show | False, curly hair does not form fairly uniform diameter along a single strand; curly hair has varying dimension all along the hair strand
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show | Yes
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show | Also known as ATG; is an active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent.
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What is base direction? | show 🗑
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What are side bonds? | show 🗑
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What is the spiral shape created when polypeptide chains intertwine with each other? | show 🗑
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show | The addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen
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What are peptide bonds also known as ? | show 🗑
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show | Spiral perm wrap
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show | End wraps
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show | Cold waves
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show | 1oz of 20-vol peroxide
20 drops of 28% ammonia
Immerse 20 strands for 30 minutes
Assess lightning
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show | Ammonia free waves
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show | Sodium hydroxide pH 12.5- 13.5
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What is the pH of alkaline/ cold waves? | show 🗑
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show | True acid waves
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show | Long, coiled polypeptide chains
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show | Base placement
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What are chemical texture services? | show 🗑
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show | 6.5-7.0
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show | TRUE
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Name what each bond is broken down by: salt, hydrogen and disulfide | show 🗑
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What is hydroxide neutralization? | show 🗑
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What is a a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in opposite direction? | show 🗑
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show | Is the position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
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A __________ bond is a strong chemical side bond formed when the sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together | show 🗑
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show | The measurement of the thickness or thinnest of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows
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show | Perms that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine.
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What are compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur? | show 🗑
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show | Loosening overly curly hair: changing tightly curly or coiled hair into loose curls or waves
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show | Thio relaxers
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Which relaxer is a no-mix, no lye relaxer that may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair but is very effective for extremely curly hair ? | show 🗑
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What type of permanent wave is recommended for porous to normal hair ? | show 🗑
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What type of permanent waves are recommended for coarse, thick, or resistant hair? | show 🗑
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What is a very strong alkali with a pH over 13 and its active ingredient is the hydroxide ion? | show 🗑
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show | 4.5-7.0
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What are amino acids? | show 🗑
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What perm wrap consists of base sections that are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of hair? | show 🗑
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What is the pH of ammonia free waves? | show 🗑
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What is permanent waving? | show 🗑
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show | Removes the curl or waves leaving the hair straight and smooth
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show | Metal hydroxide relaxers
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show | Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
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What are alkaline waves? | show 🗑
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What are perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate? | show 🗑
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show | Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing.
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What is a process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form? | show 🗑
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What is a weak physical side bond that is also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges and is easily broken by water? | show 🗑
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show | TRUE
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show | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so the rod is positioned completely off its base.
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What are soft bender rods? | show 🗑
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show | Base relaxers
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T or F The cuticle is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of the hair | show 🗑
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How long does a keratin straightening treatment last for | show 🗑
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T or F Chemical texturizers raise the pH of the hair shaft | show 🗑
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The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its ___________ ________ | show 🗑
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T or F Salt bonds are easily broken but reform when pH returns to normal level | show 🗑
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What is thio neutralization? | show 🗑
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What is a NaOH relaxer? | show 🗑
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What is a thio relaxer and no lye relaxer that is compatible with soft curl permanents but has a strong, unpleasant ammonia smell and with repeated used may dehydrate the hair | show 🗑
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show | Wrapping techinque that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.
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___________ are conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH before the final neutralizing shampoo | show 🗑
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Define chemical texture services | show 🗑
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What are 2 other names for Japanese Thermal Straightners? | show 🗑
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What is the most common ingredient for neutralizer is ____ to ____ volume hydrogen peroxide | show 🗑
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What are peptide bonds? | show 🗑
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show | Permanent waves that have a 7.8 -8.2 netural pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
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show | Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers.
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show | Low pH waves. endothermic pH 6.5- 7.0
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What type of permanent wave is recommended for porous or damaged hair? | show 🗑
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What are base sections? | show 🗑
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What is a curvature permanent wrap? | show 🗑
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show | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degree or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section
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What is thioglycolic acid? | show 🗑
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show | Acid balanced waves
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show | Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
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What is the pH of exothermic waves | show 🗑
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T or F A properly processed perm should only break approximately 50% off the disulfide bonds | show 🗑
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show | TRUE
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show | Weave technique
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What is a double rod wrap also known as? | show 🗑
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show | Peptide bonds
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What are true acid waves? | show 🗑
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How many components must be mixed in guanidine hydroxide relaxer? | show 🗑
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show | Alkaline waves
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show | Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped
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What is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped? | show 🗑
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What is a perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped? | show 🗑
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What is the term for the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped? | show 🗑
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AKA circle rods Is a tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod? | show 🗑
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What are polypeptide chains? | show 🗑
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show | Exothermic waves
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show | 2
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T or F Hydroxide relaxers are not compatible with thio relaxers, permanent waving, or soft curl perms | show 🗑
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What is the pH of thio free waves? | show 🗑
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show | End papers
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What is a perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope? | show 🗑
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What do you call to the perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter to the ends. | show 🗑
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show | Polypeptide chains
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show | Keratin proteins
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What is a low-pH relaxer and no-lye relaxer that is less damaging to hair but does not sufficiently relax extremely curly hair ? | show 🗑
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What is a no-lye relaxer that causes less skin irritation than other hydroxide relaxers but with repeated use may dehydrate the hair. | show 🗑
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show | Croquinole perm wrap
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What is a two - step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair then undergoes a chemical caused by the application of permanent, waving solution and neutralizer? | show 🗑
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show | Formalin
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What is a thio based chemical services that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves | show 🗑
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show | Adds wave or curl to the hair
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