Beaches and Shores Exam 2 (ch.5,6,7,8,9)
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| show | line connecting points of equal barometric pressure on a weather map
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| show | .apparent deflection of moving particles on rotating earth. in the northern hemisphere moving particles are deflectedtot he right, whereas in the southern hemisphere they are deflected to theleft. there is no apparent defection at the equator
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| show | high-pressure region occurring at 30 degrees latitude. formed by a descending airmass that compresses, producing high pressure, dry air, and variable winds. so naed due to early sailing ships being becalmed in these latitudes and throwing out horses
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| show | atmospheric convection cell existing between 30 and 60 latitude. this cell is formed due t sinking air at 30 degrees latitude and rising air at 60 degrees latitude
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| show | weak circlation cell that occurs between 60 and 90 degrees latitude. it results from upper air masses movement northward and descending at the poles, while at the same time surface air flow south
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| show | planetary-scale surface winds that blow from the northeast in the tropics. aka "trace winds"
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| show | zone of converging northeast trade winds and southeast trade winds. this zone occurs at about 5 degrees north of the equator
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| westerlies | show 🗑
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| show | part of the global air circulation pattern where winds blow from the polar high toward the subpolar low
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| polar front | show 🗑
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| anticyclones | show 🗑
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| sea breeze | show 🗑
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| land breeze | show 🗑
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| show | process of cyclone development (low pressure system). cyclonic circulation is formed along an advancing frontal system in which the two air masses have a slight component of differential movement
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| northeasters | show 🗑
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| berm | show 🗑
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| law of conservation of momentum | show 🗑
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| capillary waves | show 🗑
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| show | waves whose velocity of propagation is controlled primarily by gravity. most wind-generated waves are gravity waves
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| wavelength | show 🗑
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| show | (H) the vertical difference between the wave crest and the adjacent trough
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| show | (T) time in seconds that it takes for a complete wavelength to pass a reference point
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| celerity | show 🗑
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| significant wave height | show 🗑
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| show | a rise in water elevation above still water in the surf zone due to breaking waves piling up water
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| wave base | show 🗑
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| show | the zone landward of the breaker zone where breaking waves create a turbulent flow of water toward the beach
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| show | waves formed at the generated site under the influence of local winds
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| show | waves that have moved away from the generation zone and have similar periods, lengths, and heights. these are the waves that break along a beach when the wind isn't blowing
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| show | curled-shaped breaking wave that break all at once. the classic wave for surfers due to the elliptical-shaped pocket of air beneath the crest
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| show | a type of breaking wave in which the crest peaks and then water cascades down the front of he wave. this wave continues to break along a wide section of the nearshore zone
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| show | bending of the wave as it passes through shallow water on its way to the shoreline
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| show | occurs as waves pass an impermeable obstacle such as a jetty, breakwater, or other type of structure that causes the wave energy to spread along the crest behind the obstacle
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| reflection | show 🗑
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| tsunami | show 🗑
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| standing waves | show 🗑
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| show | a standing wave in a coastal or semi-enclosed body of water. the wave sloshes back and forth with a period of minutes to hours
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| show | current in the nearshore zone that is produced by angular wave approach
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| littoral transport | show 🗑
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| littoral drift | show 🗑
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| rip currents | show 🗑
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| undertow | show 🗑
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| show | adjacent, shallow marine waters. incldes the region that extends from the low tide line, which is the seaward extent of the beach, out across the surf zone, nd includes the sand bars that are common along most coasts
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| show | shore-parallel sand bar in the nearshore zone that is formed by wave processes
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| ridge and runnel | show 🗑
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| foreshore | show 🗑
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| backshore | show 🗑
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| show | the flat upper surfaces of the steplike features that may occupy the backshore
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| show | beach with a flat to low gradient profile such that wave energy is expended over a wide area
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| reflective beaches | show 🗑
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| accretionary beach | show 🗑
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| show | a flat featureless beach that is produced by storm erosion
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| heavy minerals | show 🗑
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| sand | show 🗑
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| beach | show 🗑
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| show | middle of the barrier extending landward from the foredune ridge through the secondary dune system to the rear of the barrier. this region commonlt consists of one or more of these elements: isolated dunes, sand sheets, washovers, blowouts, ridge, etc.
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| landward margin | show 🗑
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| show | coast defining the passive margin of a continent in which the opposite sie of the continent is a collision margin (east coast of N&S America). typically low-lying and depositional, and receives large quantities of sediment
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| marginal sea coasts | show 🗑
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| collision coasts | show 🗑
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| Afro-trailing coasts | show 🗑
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| Neo-trailing edge | show 🗑
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| show | hook-shaped spit that builds into bay or along the cost through the addition of curved beaach ridges
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| show | triangular accumulation of sand that extends from a barrier or mainland shoreline into a bay or lagoon. characterized by converging sand transport cells
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| show | type of spit that occurs along straight to sligtly irregular shorelines and extends at an acute angle to the beach. theyre found along semi-protected shrelines and may contain recurved ridges
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| tombolos | show 🗑
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| cuspate forelands | show 🗑
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| show | de Beaumont believed that waves movng into shallow water churned up san, which was deposited in the form of a submarine bar when the waves broke and lost much of their energy
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| show | Gilbert argued that the barrier sediments came from alongshore sources
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| show | McGee believed east and gulf coasts of the US were undergoing submergence
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| show | types of barrier that builds seaward during its evolution due to an abundant sediment supply
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| show | vegetated former foredune ridges marking previous beach positions. low areas between ridges are called swales
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| scarp | show 🗑
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| show | a debris line found along the upper shore marking the greatest excursion of the wave up the beachface or berm during the previous spring high tide or storm high tide. consists of seaweed, eelgrass, marsh grass, or driftwood
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| show | the landward movement of a subtidal or intertidal sandbar toward the shoreline. the onshore migration is due to the action of breaking and shoaling waves as well as wave-generated currents. on ebb-tidal delas, flood-tidal currents, etc.
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| show | topographically low barrie that migrates onshore primarily through overwash activity during storms. barrier sands are underlain by marsh, lagoonal, nad mainland sediments
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| show | the landward migration ofa barrier, accomplished primarily through the process of storm overwash
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| show | sediment that is transported from the beach across a barrier, and is deposited in an apron-like accumulation along the backside of the barrier. overwash usually occurs during storms when waves brak through the frontal dune ridge and flow toward the marsh
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| show | barriers that build vertically in a regime o rising sea leveland generate the same approximate arrangement of environments as they did following their formation and stabilization
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| show | the study of the composition and relationship of layered sediments or rocks
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| prograding barrier | show 🗑
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| retrograding barrier | show 🗑
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| show | barriers that build vertically in a regime of rising sea level and generate the same approximate arrangement of environments as they did following their formation and stabilzation
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| foredunes | show 🗑
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| sand shadows | show 🗑
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| show | small accumulation of wind-blown sand around a plant
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| blowover | show 🗑
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