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Waves and Tides

Earth Science

QuestionAnswer
How do waves form? Wind blows over smooth water and creates surface ripples->chop->regularly spaced swells->huge breakers
A fully developed sea Wave dimensions increase until they reach the maximum size for the existing storm conditions
Fetch the distance along open water over which the wind blows
Wind velocity speed and direction
Factors that determine wave size Wind velocity Length of time the wind blows over the water Fetch a fully developed sea
Waves of Oscilation The actual motion of a wave is a circular path. The energy of the wave moves forward. There is no mass forward movement of water.
Waves of Oscilation explains... how a surfer can bob along in the water and not be pushed toward the shoreline.
Plunging offshore area is steep, waves peak rapidly on the steep sea floor, classic tube shape typical of Sunset Beach or Waimea Bay
Spilling flat near shore slope where waves lose energy by friction, waves build up slowly and the crest spills down the face of the wave.
swash water that rushes onto beach
backwash water returning seaward to become part of next wave
Longshore current a weak current within the surf zone
Wave refraction When waves bend as they approach the shore line at an angle Some water is discharged as a longshore current. The greater the angle, the greater the volume of water that is discharged into this current.
Rip currents are caused by... Longshore currents overflowing through the surf zone during periods of big surf
Tidal range Difference in sea level elevation between high tide and low tide in one location
Semidiurnal tides Most shorelines experience 2 High Tides and 2 Low Tides per day
Time From High tide to Low tide 6 hours 12 min 30 sec
Diurnal tides Because of the ocean bottom shape or the tilt of the moons revolution, some shorelines experience only 1 High Tide and 1 Low Tide per day (Gulf of Mexico)
Spring Tides occur... during New Moon and Full Moon phases ~ 2 times/month
During Spring tides... Sun, Earth, Moon are in a line, Sun adds to Moon’s gravity
During Spring tides, High Tides are... Low Tides are... -higher than normal -lower than normal
Neap tides occur... during First Quarter and Third Quarter phases ~ 2 times/month
During Neap tides, High tides are... Low tides are... -lower than normal -higher than normal Neap=weak
During neap tides... Sun, Earth, Moon are at a right angle, Sun takes away from Moon’s gravity
Perigee when the Moon is closest to the Earth
Apogee when the Moon is farthest from the Earth
The moons orbit is... elliptical
Surface Currents caused by wind patterns, several hundred meters deep, temp. depends on origin, have a circular pattern of circulation and rotate just like wind patterns (ex.Gulf of Mexico)
Deep ocean currents Caused by difference in density of the water Densest water lies off Antarctica and flows north Flow in opposite direction of surface currents
Created by: elarocco
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