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Waves

Ocean Waves and effects

QuestionAnswer
Worlds largest tide Quiantan River, China 26ft high, 25mph
Forces that generate tides Gravitation attraction to moon and Earth
Forces that generate tides Gravitation attraction Sun and Earth
Forces that generate tides Inertia(centrifegal force) due to rotation of Earth
Gravitational attraction Decreases as the square of the distance from teh moon
Tractive forces Net force of combining the inertia and gravitational attraction
Inertia & Gravitational attraction the two forces that move the ocean, equal in strength, opposite in direction, balanced on at point CE (center of Earth)
Inertia and Gravitaino attraction water buldge
Eath turns in which direction East
High tides the crests of the planet sized waves
Low tides the troughs of the planet-sized waves
Spring tide the large tides caused by the linear alignment of the sun, Earth and moon.
Spring tides occur in 2-week intervals corresponding to the new and full moon.
Neap tide occurs when the moon, earth, and sun form a right angle.
Neap tide occurs at 2-week intervals, with the neap time arriving a week after the sping tide.
Wave's itself transport water in the ocean False/No
Ocean waves move energy across the ocean surface True/yes
The highest part of the wave above average water level Wave Crest
The valley between wave crests below average water level Wave Trough
The vertical distance between a wave crest and teh adjacent trough Wave Height
The horizontal distance between two successive crests (or trough) Wave Length
Energy that causes ocean waves to form Disturbing Force
Distubing force of a Capillary wave Wind
Distubing force of a Seiche change in atmosphere pressure, storm surge, tsunami
Distubing force of a seismic sea wave faulting of seafloor, volcanic eruption, landslide
Distubing force of a tide gravitational attraction, rotation of earth
The type of wave that is formed and then propagates across teh sea surface without the further influence of the force that formed it such as wind waves and sunami Free Waves
The type of wave that is formed and maintained by its distributing force-such as tides Forced Waves
What are the development factors of Wind Wave's? wind strength, wind duration, fetch (i.e. distance of wind blowing with out chnaging its direcation)
Length, time and speed of a Wind Wave? 20 seconds, 2000 ft, 112km or 70mph
Length, time and speed of a Tsunami? 20 minutes, 125 miles, 470mph-speed of a et airliner
Distubing force of a Wind Wave wind over ocean
Restoration Force of Wind wave, seiche, seismic sea wave (tsunami), Tide Gravity
Restoration Force of Capillary wave Cohesion of water molecules
Wavelength of capillary wave .68 inch
Wavelength of Wind wave 200-500ft
Wavelength of Seiche Large, variable; a function of ocean basin size
Wavelength of Seismic sea wave (tsunami) 125mi
Wavelength of Tide Half of Earth's circumference
What is the direction of a wave motion wavelength: crest-trough-seill water level - crest
Frequency Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second
Period Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B
Wave Crest is the highest part of the wave abouve average water level
Wave Trough is the valley between wave crests below aveerage water level
Wave Height is the vertical distance beween a wave crest and the adjacent trough
Wavelength is the horizontal distance between two successive crests (or troughs)
Disturbing forec Energy that cuases ocean waves to form
Wind Waves factors that affect wind wave development- wind stregth- wind duration- Fetch
Fetch distance of wind blowing without changing its directions
Tsunami distruction when? a lot in Asia, most fatalities were in Papue New Guinea 2,200, 1998
Longer the wavelength, the greater the speed True
Wind waves (in extreme) Period 20 sec, WL 600m (2000ft) Speed 112km (70mph)
Tsunami waves Period 20 minutes, WL 200 km (125miles), Speed 760 km (470mph)- speed of a jet airliner
Deep water waves Waves moving through water deeper than half their wavelength (depth > L/2)
L=40m, depth =100m Deep water waves - (depth > L/2)
Shallow water waves Waves moving through water shallower than 1/20 their wavelength (Depth < L/20)
L=40m, depth =1m Shallow water waves (depth < L/20)
Transistional waves waves travel through water deeper than 1/20 of their wavelength but shallower than 1/2 of their wavelength, i.e. between the deep and shallow waves
L=40m, depth = 10m Transitional waves
Deep-water wavers change to shallow-water waves as they approach shore true
Shallow-water wavers change to Deep-water waves as they approach shore False
Waves break when..... a 3:4 ratio of wave height to water depth is reached- that is, a 3-meter wave will break in 4 meters of waters
Waves break at hieght=3, depth=6m false
Waves break at 3m, depth - 2m False
Waves break at 2m, depth of 2.7m True
The surf zone is the region between teh breaking waves and the shore True
When waves break, the tubulent mass of agitated water rushing shoreward during and after the break is known as Surf True
The break of waves depen on what Slope, Contour, composition
Slope steep or gradual sloping
contour shoaling rapidly or gradually
compostition loos gravel or hard solid
What three ways do waves approach the shore Wave Refraction, Diffraction & Reflection
Wave Refraction
Wave Diffraction
Wave Reflection
Rogue Wave
Sediment gains V+ = longshore transport into beach 60,000 m3/yr
Sediment gains C+ = Cliff erosion 5,000 m3/yr
Sediment gains O+ = onshore transport 5, 000 m3/yr
Sediment losses W = wind -1,000 m3/yr
Sediment losses V = longshore transport out of beach -20,000 m3/yr
Sediment losses O= offshore transport (includes transport to sumarine canyons -20,000 m3/yr
Net erosion -5,000 m3/yr
Groin groins are structures that extend from the beach into the water. They help counter erosion by trapping sand from the current. Groins accumulate sand on their updrift side, but erosion is worse on the downdrift side, which is deprived of sand.
What is the best response to erosion importing sand
Dredged sand erodes more quickly true
Coast the zone affected by the processes that occur at sea-land boundary
Shore the place where ocean meets land
Coastal processes the weathering processes including winds, river erosion, tides, waves, currents, and ocean storms.
Coastal featurs cliffs, sea cave, sea stack, sea arch, sand dunes, sand bars, beaches, marshes
What factors determine the location of a coast tectonic activities, volume of seawater
What are the processes that affect the shape of a coast uplift and subsidence, wearing down of land by erosion, redistribution of material by sediment transport and deposition
Estuary A body of water partially surrounded by land, where fresh water from a river mixes with ocean water.
Benifits to estuary Very dynamic environment, high biological productivity, high bio-diversity
Drowned river mouth Chesapeak Bay
Fjord seep, glacially eroded, 300-400m deep, present in cold regions
Bar-built a barrier island is built parallel to the coast above sea level, in general less than 1m depth
Tectonic San Francisco Bay
Clasificaiton of estuaries by their circulation patterns salt wedge, well-mixed estuaries, partially mixed estuaries, Fjord esturaries, reversed estuaries
Primary Productivity the synthesis of organic materials from inorganic substances by photosynthesis or chemosynthesis
Green plants, algae, specialized bacteria photosynthesizers
What is chemicl energy Carbohydrates
What are Respireres animals , decomposers, plants at night
Primay Producers convert inorganic matters to organic matters (carbohyhdrates) by carrying out either photosynthesis or chemosynthesis.
Who are the primary producers in the ocean photosynthesis and chemosynthesis
Photosynthesis carried out by green plants (phytoplankton, seaweed, kelp)
Chemosynthesis carried out by bacteria
photosynthesis formula 6CO2 +6H2O - C6H12O6 + 6O>2
Photosynthesis cargon dioxide reacts with water to form organic matter and oxygen (6CO2 reacts with 6H2O to form C6H12O6 and 6O>2)
Photosynthesis process requires what? macroplants such as seaweed, or microplnats such as photoplankton, it also requires the availability of light and nutrients.
What are the Physical and biological factors that affect marine life light, temperature,salinity, dissovled nutrients, dissolved gases, acid-base balance (ph), osmosis effect
Salinity total dissolved inorganic solids in seawater expresseed as parts per thousand percentage parts per hundred 1%=10 parts per thousand 3.5% = 35 parts per thousand
What are the dissolved salts in seawater solids+water-ions (dissolved salts)
Ions are either positive or negative charges we exlcude complex ions which may have no charges
Cations ions having positive charges
Anions ions having negative charges
what are the most abundant ions in seawater chloride, sodium, sulfate, magnesium, calcium, potassium, bicarbonate
Does the solubility of gases in seawater decreases as temp rises yes
Sea water pH - neutral pH=7
Sea water pH - acidic pH<7
Sea water pH -basic pH>7
what is seawater pH range 7.9-8.3
Osmosis effect exchange of water through cell membrane due to the difference in teh level of dissovled salts inside and outside the cell membrane
hypotonic water diffuses inward cells swell up
hypertonic water diffuces outward, cells shrivel
isotonic no net chnage in water movement or in shapes of cells
Phytoplanktons are primary producers in the ocean; they float with water; they cannot swim.
Zooplanktons are primary consumers in the ocean; they are weak swimmers; they could migrate vertically in the water
Phytoplankton consists of Diatom and Dinoflagellates
Diatom
Dinoflagellates
HBA Harmful Algal Bloom
HArmful Algal Bloom (HBA) occurs when high concentrations of plytoplankton adversely affect the physiology of nearby organisms.
Example of HBA RED Tide
Compensation Depth at a certain depth of the ocean, the production of organic matter (carbohydrates) and oxygen by photosynthesis equals the consumption of carbohydrates and oxygen by respiration.
Limiting factors to much or too little of a single physical factor can adversely affect the function of an organism
Example of limiting factors in Deep water in deep ocean wherr photosynthesis cannot occur because of light not available, light is the Limiting Factor
Example of limiting factors at the surface water in the open ocean where light is available yet nutrients may not be available, nutrients is the Limited Factor
Phytoplankton in tropical regions there is no seasonal variation in phytoplankton productivity because of little variation in light and nutrients.
Plankton in the Temperate region there is a plankton bloom in the spring and fall due to the availability of nutrients and temp
Plankton in Polar region one plankton bloom in the summer bc of the light intensity
Seaweed multicellular alga grows at 50cm a day and reach a length of 40m, the holfast is the root, blade is the leaves, gas bladder, stipe - stem
Accessory pigments in seaweed light absorbing compounds closey associated with chlorophyll nikecykes. There presences enhances photosynthesis and allows seaweed to carry out photosynthesis at great depths
zooplankton- Holoplankton most zooplankton spend their lives int eh planton community, such as copepods and krill
zooplankton-meroplankton temporary planktonic animails such as juvenile stages of crabs, barnacles, calms, and sea stars.
Zooplankton-copepods are the most abundant and widely distributed animal in the world
copepod size .02 inch
Zooplankton- Krill most abundant in Antartic seas, 500-750million inhabit Antartic
Zooplankton - Macroplankton plankton larger then 1 centimeter (.5in) such as gliding snails, jellyfishes
Invertebrates the most successful and abundant animals, >90%
Porifera Sponges
Cnidaria coral, jellyfish, sea anemones, siphonophores
Platyhelminthes flatworms, flukes, tapeworms
Nematoda roundworms
annelida segmented worms
mollusca chitons, snails, bivalves, squid, octopuses
Arthropoda crabs, shrimp, barnacles, copepods, krill
Echinodermata sea stars, sea urchins, sea cucumbers
Chordata Turnicates, salps, Amphioxus
Vertebrates Part of the animal phyla
Chordata Fishes, reptiels, birds, mammals
Sponges attached animals, more than 10,000 species, suspension feeders, filtering water 1,200 liter/day (400 gal)
Phylum Chordata includes both vertebrate and invertebrate
Worm Phyla the link to advanced animals
Worm transition from relatively simple to more advanced orgaisms is made
Worm body plan exhibits bilateral symmetry NOT radial symmetry
Bilateral symmetry are mirror images
Mollusca advanced invertebrates have complex bodies and internal systems
Arthropods have three remarkable evolutionary advances that have led to their great success exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation
Exoskeleton a strong, lightweight, form fitted external covering and support
Striated muscle a quick, strong, lightweight form of muscle that makes rapid movement and flight possible
Articulation the ability to bend appendages at specific points
Evolutionary advances of Arthropoda, arthropods have 3 remarkable evolutionary advances that led to their success exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation
Evolutionary advances of Arthropoda, arthropods have 3 remarkable evolutionary advances that led to their success exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation
Exoskeleton strong, lightweight, form fitted external covering and support
Striated muscle quick, strong, lightweight form of muscle that makes rapid movement and flight possible
Articulation ability to bend appendages at specific points
Evolutionary advances of Arthropoda, arthropods have 3 remarkable evolutionary advances that led to their success exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation
Exoskeleton strong, lightweight, form fitted external covering and support
Striated muscle quick, strong, lightweight form of muscle that makes rapid movement and flight possible
Articulation ability to bend appendages at specific points
Amphioxus transitional species between invertebrates and vertebrates
Problems overcome by fishes in order to survive in the ocean movement in seawater, avoid sinking, gas exchange, preventing too much salt entering the body, Feeding and escaping
Problems overcome by fishes in order to survive in the ocean movement in seawater, avoid sinking, gas exchange, preventing too much salt entering the body, Feeding and escaping
Movement in seawater streamlined body shape such as tunas, s-shaped movement such as eels
avoid sinking using swim bladders, or swim continuous in fast motion with out the bladders
gas exchange through gills
preventing too much slat entering the body a marine fish actively drinks seawater and eliminates excess slats through special salt -secreting cells in the gills.
Sharks preventing to much salt sharks distribute urea in the internal fluids to prevent too much sea salts from entering its body.
Advances of Arthropoda, arthropods have 3 remarkable evolutionally advances that have led to their great success Exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation,
exoskeleton a strong,, lightweight, form-fitted external covering and support
Striated muscle quick, strong, lightweight form of muscle that makes rapid movement and flight possible
Articulation the ability to bend appendages at specific points.
Amphioxus transitional species between invertebrates and vertebrates
Problems overcome by fishes in order to survive it the ocean movement in seawater, avoid sinking, gas exchange, prevention of to much salt in body, feeding and escaping
Movement in seawater streamlined body shaped such as tunas, s-shaped movement such as eels
Avoid sinking using swim bladders, swim continuous in a fast motion without the bladders
Gas exchange through gills
Preventing to much salt eliminates excess slats through special salt -secreting cells in the gills.
Sharks have developed a different approach to removing excess salt they distribute UREA in the internal fluids to prevent too much sea salt from entering. bitter meat
Feeding and escaping sight,using lateral-lined system to detect low-frequency vibrations & their foods or enemies, counter shading coloring or cryptic coloration to hide from their enemies, schooling behavior for protecting each other, acceleratin rapidly-flying fish.
What is the most widely distributed marine reptile sea turtle
sea turtles are endangered by humans
How many species of sea turtles are there 8
who are the most abundant sea turtles green sea turtles and most widespread of living species
Sea turtles return at ______yrs intervals to.... 2,3,& 4yr intervals to lay eggs on the beach then hatch
How do sea turtles find the island/beach to hatch their eggs they use solar angle, wind wave direction, smell, and visual cues
What are marine resources Physical, Energy, biological,nonextractive,
Physical resources petroleum and natural gas, methane hydrate deposits, marine sand and gravel, magnesium and compounts, salts, manganese nodules, phosphorite deposits, metallic sulfides, fresh water by desalination
*Energy resources wind, waves, tides, and currents
*Biological resources various marine lives, both animal and plants
*nonextractive resources use the ocean for recreation and transportaion purposes
Renewable resources marine resources that can be replaced by the growth of marine organisms or by natural physical processes
Nonrenewable resources marine resources that are present in the ocean in fixed amounts and cannot be replenished over time spans as short as human lifetimes.
What physical marine resources have been developed and used in our daily life? petroleum & natural gas, marine sand & gravel, magnesium and magnesium compounts, salts, fresh water by desalination
What resources have been explored but not developed for commercial purpose manganese nodules, phosphorite deposits, metallic sulfides, methane hydrate deposits
Rance estuary in western France has Tidal power
Hammerfest, Norway has Tide turbines, under water causing motion for tides
What is OTEC Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion
Total yield for all marine sources for 2001 130.2 Tons
Marine Pollution introduction into the ocean by humans of substance or energy that changes the quality of the water or affects the physical, chemical, or biological environment
Sources of marine pollution 44% runoff/discharge from land, 33% airborne emissions form land, 12% shipping and accidental spills, 10% Ocean dumping, 1% offshore mining, oil & gas drilling
Factors that affect the consequences of oil spill Location & proximity to shore, quantity & composition of the oil, season of yr, oceanic conditions waves, currents, weather conditions at the time of release,composition & diversity of affected communities
oil spills most effected community intertidal and shallow-water subtidal communities.
Synthetic Organic Chemicals (SOC) pollution toxic synthetic organic chemicals are very persistent in the environment and may be biologically amplified.
Examples of SOC benzene, carbon tetrachloride, chloroform, dioxin, ethylene dibromide, polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB), trichloroethylene, vinyl chloride
Rachel Carson marine biologist and conservationist, wrote Silent Spring
Synthetic Organic Chemicals (SOC) pollution Toxic synthetic organic chemicals are very persistent in the environment and may be biologically amplified.
Examples of SOC -m Synthetic Organic Chemical pollution Benzene, Carbon tetrachloride, Chloroform, Dioxin, Ethylene dibromide, Polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), Trichloroethylene, and Vinyl chloride
who is Rachel Carson marine biologist and conservationist, wrote Silent Spring and brought a ban on DDT
Biological Amplification DDT as an example to show the process of biological amplification–The level of SOC in seawater is usually very low, but some organisms at higher levels in the food chain can concentrate these toxic substances in their flesh
Heavy Metal Pollution Examples of heavy metal pollution –Heavy metals can be toxic in very small quantities. Reported heavy metal pollutions in marine environment include lead, mercury, cadmium, copper, and tributyl tin.
What is Eutrophication? Eutrophication is a set of physical, chemical, and biological changes that take place when excessive nutrients are released into the water.
Can storm water bring pollutants to coastal waters yes
kinds of pollution solid waste, heat from power plants
Porifera-marine life Sponges
Cnidaria-marine life Coral, Jellyfish, sea anemones, siphonophores
Created by: kclark143
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