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Waves
Ocean Waves and effects
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Worlds largest tide | Quiantan River, China 26ft high, 25mph |
| Forces that generate tides | Gravitation attraction to moon and Earth |
| Forces that generate tides | Gravitation attraction Sun and Earth |
| Forces that generate tides | Inertia(centrifegal force) due to rotation of Earth |
| Gravitational attraction | Decreases as the square of the distance from teh moon |
| Tractive forces | Net force of combining the inertia and gravitational attraction |
| Inertia & Gravitational attraction | the two forces that move the ocean, equal in strength, opposite in direction, balanced on at point CE (center of Earth) |
| Inertia and Gravitaino attraction | water buldge |
| Eath turns in which direction | East |
| High tides | the crests of the planet sized waves |
| Low tides | the troughs of the planet-sized waves |
| Spring tide | the large tides caused by the linear alignment of the sun, Earth and moon. |
| Spring tides occur | in 2-week intervals corresponding to the new and full moon. |
| Neap tide | occurs when the moon, earth, and sun form a right angle. |
| Neap tide | occurs at 2-week intervals, with the neap time arriving a week after the sping tide. |
| Wave's itself transport water in the ocean | False/No |
| Ocean waves move energy across the ocean surface | True/yes |
| The highest part of the wave above average water level | Wave Crest |
| The valley between wave crests below average water level | Wave Trough |
| The vertical distance between a wave crest and teh adjacent trough | Wave Height |
| The horizontal distance between two successive crests (or trough) | Wave Length |
| Energy that causes ocean waves to form | Disturbing Force |
| Distubing force of a Capillary wave | Wind |
| Distubing force of a Seiche | change in atmosphere pressure, storm surge, tsunami |
| Distubing force of a seismic sea wave | faulting of seafloor, volcanic eruption, landslide |
| Distubing force of a tide | gravitational attraction, rotation of earth |
| The type of wave that is formed and then propagates across teh sea surface without the further influence of the force that formed it such as wind waves and sunami | Free Waves |
| The type of wave that is formed and maintained by its distributing force-such as tides | Forced Waves |
| What are the development factors of Wind Wave's? | wind strength, wind duration, fetch (i.e. distance of wind blowing with out chnaging its direcation) |
| Length, time and speed of a Wind Wave? | 20 seconds, 2000 ft, 112km or 70mph |
| Length, time and speed of a Tsunami? | 20 minutes, 125 miles, 470mph-speed of a et airliner |
| Distubing force of a Wind Wave | wind over ocean |
| Restoration Force of Wind wave, seiche, seismic sea wave (tsunami), Tide | Gravity |
| Restoration Force of Capillary wave | Cohesion of water molecules |
| Wavelength of capillary wave | .68 inch |
| Wavelength of Wind wave | 200-500ft |
| Wavelength of Seiche | Large, variable; a function of ocean basin size |
| Wavelength of Seismic sea wave (tsunami) | 125mi |
| Wavelength of Tide | Half of Earth's circumference |
| What is the direction of a wave motion | wavelength: crest-trough-seill water level - crest |
| Frequency | Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second |
| Period | Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B |
| Wave Crest | is the highest part of the wave abouve average water level |
| Wave Trough | is the valley between wave crests below aveerage water level |
| Wave Height | is the vertical distance beween a wave crest and the adjacent trough |
| Wavelength | is the horizontal distance between two successive crests (or troughs) |
| Disturbing forec | Energy that cuases ocean waves to form |
| Wind Waves | factors that affect wind wave development- wind stregth- wind duration- Fetch |
| Fetch | distance of wind blowing without changing its directions |
| Tsunami distruction when? | a lot in Asia, most fatalities were in Papue New Guinea 2,200, 1998 |
| Longer the wavelength, the greater the speed | True |
| Wind waves (in extreme) | Period 20 sec, WL 600m (2000ft) Speed 112km (70mph) |
| Tsunami waves | Period 20 minutes, WL 200 km (125miles), Speed 760 km (470mph)- speed of a jet airliner |
| Deep water waves | Waves moving through water deeper than half their wavelength (depth > L/2) |
| L=40m, depth =100m | Deep water waves - (depth > L/2) |
| Shallow water waves | Waves moving through water shallower than 1/20 their wavelength (Depth < L/20) |
| L=40m, depth =1m | Shallow water waves (depth < L/20) |
| Transistional waves | waves travel through water deeper than 1/20 of their wavelength but shallower than 1/2 of their wavelength, i.e. between the deep and shallow waves |
| L=40m, depth = 10m | Transitional waves |
| Deep-water wavers change to shallow-water waves as they approach shore | true |
| Shallow-water wavers change to Deep-water waves as they approach shore | False |
| Waves break when..... | a 3:4 ratio of wave height to water depth is reached- that is, a 3-meter wave will break in 4 meters of waters |
| Waves break at hieght=3, depth=6m | false |
| Waves break at 3m, depth - 2m | False |
| Waves break at 2m, depth of 2.7m | True |
| The surf zone is the region between teh breaking waves and the shore | True |
| When waves break, the tubulent mass of agitated water rushing shoreward during and after the break is known as Surf | True |
| The break of waves depen on what | Slope, Contour, composition |
| Slope | steep or gradual sloping |
| contour | shoaling rapidly or gradually |
| compostition | loos gravel or hard solid |
| What three ways do waves approach the shore | Wave Refraction, Diffraction & Reflection |
| Wave Refraction | |
| Wave Diffraction | |
| Wave Reflection | |
| Rogue Wave | |
| Sediment gains V+ = | longshore transport into beach 60,000 m3/yr |
| Sediment gains C+ = | Cliff erosion 5,000 m3/yr |
| Sediment gains O+ = | onshore transport 5, 000 m3/yr |
| Sediment losses W = | wind -1,000 m3/yr |
| Sediment losses V = | longshore transport out of beach -20,000 m3/yr |
| Sediment losses O= | offshore transport (includes transport to sumarine canyons -20,000 m3/yr |
| Net erosion | -5,000 m3/yr |
| Groin | groins are structures that extend from the beach into the water. They help counter erosion by trapping sand from the current. Groins accumulate sand on their updrift side, but erosion is worse on the downdrift side, which is deprived of sand. |
| What is the best response to erosion | importing sand |
| Dredged sand erodes more quickly | true |
| Coast | the zone affected by the processes that occur at sea-land boundary |
| Shore | the place where ocean meets land |
| Coastal processes | the weathering processes including winds, river erosion, tides, waves, currents, and ocean storms. |
| Coastal featurs | cliffs, sea cave, sea stack, sea arch, sand dunes, sand bars, beaches, marshes |
| What factors determine the location of a coast | tectonic activities, volume of seawater |
| What are the processes that affect the shape of a coast | uplift and subsidence, wearing down of land by erosion, redistribution of material by sediment transport and deposition |
| Estuary | A body of water partially surrounded by land, where fresh water from a river mixes with ocean water. |
| Benifits to estuary | Very dynamic environment, high biological productivity, high bio-diversity |
| Drowned river mouth | Chesapeak Bay |
| Fjord | seep, glacially eroded, 300-400m deep, present in cold regions |
| Bar-built | a barrier island is built parallel to the coast above sea level, in general less than 1m depth |
| Tectonic | San Francisco Bay |
| Clasificaiton of estuaries by their circulation patterns | salt wedge, well-mixed estuaries, partially mixed estuaries, Fjord esturaries, reversed estuaries |
| Primary Productivity | the synthesis of organic materials from inorganic substances by photosynthesis or chemosynthesis |
| Green plants, algae, specialized bacteria | photosynthesizers |
| What is chemicl energy | Carbohydrates |
| What are Respireres | animals , decomposers, plants at night |
| Primay Producers | convert inorganic matters to organic matters (carbohyhdrates) by carrying out either photosynthesis or chemosynthesis. |
| Who are the primary producers in the ocean | photosynthesis and chemosynthesis |
| Photosynthesis | carried out by green plants (phytoplankton, seaweed, kelp) |
| Chemosynthesis | carried out by bacteria |
| photosynthesis formula | 6CO2 +6H2O - C6H12O6 + 6O>2 |
| Photosynthesis | cargon dioxide reacts with water to form organic matter and oxygen (6CO2 reacts with 6H2O to form C6H12O6 and 6O>2) |
| Photosynthesis process requires what? | macroplants such as seaweed, or microplnats such as photoplankton, it also requires the availability of light and nutrients. |
| What are the Physical and biological factors that affect marine life | light, temperature,salinity, dissovled nutrients, dissolved gases, acid-base balance (ph), osmosis effect |
| Salinity | total dissolved inorganic solids in seawater expresseed as parts per thousand percentage parts per hundred 1%=10 parts per thousand 3.5% = 35 parts per thousand |
| What are the dissolved salts in seawater | solids+water-ions (dissolved salts) |
| Ions | are either positive or negative charges we exlcude complex ions which may have no charges |
| Cations | ions having positive charges |
| Anions | ions having negative charges |
| what are the most abundant ions in seawater | chloride, sodium, sulfate, magnesium, calcium, potassium, bicarbonate |
| Does the solubility of gases in seawater decreases as temp rises | yes |
| Sea water pH - neutral | pH=7 |
| Sea water pH - acidic | pH<7 |
| Sea water pH -basic | pH>7 |
| what is seawater pH range | 7.9-8.3 |
| Osmosis effect | exchange of water through cell membrane due to the difference in teh level of dissovled salts inside and outside the cell membrane |
| hypotonic | water diffuses inward cells swell up |
| hypertonic | water diffuces outward, cells shrivel |
| isotonic | no net chnage in water movement or in shapes of cells |
| Phytoplanktons | are primary producers in the ocean; they float with water; they cannot swim. |
| Zooplanktons | are primary consumers in the ocean; they are weak swimmers; they could migrate vertically in the water |
| Phytoplankton consists of | Diatom and Dinoflagellates |
| Diatom | |
| Dinoflagellates | |
| HBA | Harmful Algal Bloom |
| HArmful Algal Bloom (HBA) | occurs when high concentrations of plytoplankton adversely affect the physiology of nearby organisms. |
| Example of HBA | RED Tide |
| Compensation Depth | at a certain depth of the ocean, the production of organic matter (carbohydrates) and oxygen by photosynthesis equals the consumption of carbohydrates and oxygen by respiration. |
| Limiting factors | to much or too little of a single physical factor can adversely affect the function of an organism |
| Example of limiting factors in Deep water | in deep ocean wherr photosynthesis cannot occur because of light not available, light is the Limiting Factor |
| Example of limiting factors at the surface water | in the open ocean where light is available yet nutrients may not be available, nutrients is the Limited Factor |
| Phytoplankton in tropical regions | there is no seasonal variation in phytoplankton productivity because of little variation in light and nutrients. |
| Plankton in the Temperate region | there is a plankton bloom in the spring and fall due to the availability of nutrients and temp |
| Plankton in Polar region | one plankton bloom in the summer bc of the light intensity |
| Seaweed multicellular alga grows | at 50cm a day and reach a length of 40m, the holfast is the root, blade is the leaves, gas bladder, stipe - stem |
| Accessory pigments in seaweed | light absorbing compounds closey associated with chlorophyll nikecykes. There presences enhances photosynthesis and allows seaweed to carry out photosynthesis at great depths |
| zooplankton- Holoplankton | most zooplankton spend their lives int eh planton community, such as copepods and krill |
| zooplankton-meroplankton | temporary planktonic animails such as juvenile stages of crabs, barnacles, calms, and sea stars. |
| Zooplankton-copepods | are the most abundant and widely distributed animal in the world |
| copepod size | .02 inch |
| Zooplankton- Krill | most abundant in Antartic seas, 500-750million inhabit Antartic |
| Zooplankton - Macroplankton | plankton larger then 1 centimeter (.5in) such as gliding snails, jellyfishes |
| Invertebrates | the most successful and abundant animals, >90% |
| Porifera | Sponges |
| Cnidaria | coral, jellyfish, sea anemones, siphonophores |
| Platyhelminthes | flatworms, flukes, tapeworms |
| Nematoda | roundworms |
| annelida | segmented worms |
| mollusca | chitons, snails, bivalves, squid, octopuses |
| Arthropoda | crabs, shrimp, barnacles, copepods, krill |
| Echinodermata | sea stars, sea urchins, sea cucumbers |
| Chordata | Turnicates, salps, Amphioxus |
| Vertebrates | Part of the animal phyla |
| Chordata | Fishes, reptiels, birds, mammals |
| Sponges | attached animals, more than 10,000 species, suspension feeders, filtering water 1,200 liter/day (400 gal) |
| Phylum Chordata includes both | vertebrate and invertebrate |
| Worm Phyla | the link to advanced animals |
| Worm | transition from relatively simple to more advanced orgaisms is made |
| Worm body plan exhibits | bilateral symmetry NOT radial symmetry |
| Bilateral symmetry are | mirror images |
| Mollusca | advanced invertebrates have complex bodies and internal systems |
| Arthropods have three remarkable evolutionary advances that have led to their great success | exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation |
| Exoskeleton | a strong, lightweight, form fitted external covering and support |
| Striated muscle | a quick, strong, lightweight form of muscle that makes rapid movement and flight possible |
| Articulation | the ability to bend appendages at specific points |
| Evolutionary advances of Arthropoda, arthropods have 3 remarkable evolutionary advances that led to their success | exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation |
| Evolutionary advances of Arthropoda, arthropods have 3 remarkable evolutionary advances that led to their success | exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation |
| Exoskeleton | strong, lightweight, form fitted external covering and support |
| Striated muscle | quick, strong, lightweight form of muscle that makes rapid movement and flight possible |
| Articulation | ability to bend appendages at specific points |
| Evolutionary advances of Arthropoda, arthropods have 3 remarkable evolutionary advances that led to their success | exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation |
| Exoskeleton | strong, lightweight, form fitted external covering and support |
| Striated muscle | quick, strong, lightweight form of muscle that makes rapid movement and flight possible |
| Articulation | ability to bend appendages at specific points |
| Amphioxus | transitional species between invertebrates and vertebrates |
| Problems overcome by fishes in order to survive in the ocean | movement in seawater, avoid sinking, gas exchange, preventing too much salt entering the body, Feeding and escaping |
| Problems overcome by fishes in order to survive in the ocean | movement in seawater, avoid sinking, gas exchange, preventing too much salt entering the body, Feeding and escaping |
| Movement in seawater | streamlined body shape such as tunas, s-shaped movement such as eels |
| avoid sinking | using swim bladders, or swim continuous in fast motion with out the bladders |
| gas exchange | through gills |
| preventing too much slat entering the body | a marine fish actively drinks seawater and eliminates excess slats through special salt -secreting cells in the gills. |
| Sharks preventing to much salt | sharks distribute urea in the internal fluids to prevent too much sea salts from entering its body. |
| Advances of Arthropoda, arthropods have 3 remarkable evolutionally advances that have led to their great success | Exoskeleton, striated muscle, articulation, |
| exoskeleton | a strong,, lightweight, form-fitted external covering and support |
| Striated muscle | quick, strong, lightweight form of muscle that makes rapid movement and flight possible |
| Articulation | the ability to bend appendages at specific points. |
| Amphioxus | transitional species between invertebrates and vertebrates |
| Problems overcome by fishes in order to survive it the ocean | movement in seawater, avoid sinking, gas exchange, prevention of to much salt in body, feeding and escaping |
| Movement in seawater | streamlined body shaped such as tunas, s-shaped movement such as eels |
| Avoid sinking | using swim bladders, swim continuous in a fast motion without the bladders |
| Gas exchange | through gills |
| Preventing to much salt | eliminates excess slats through special salt -secreting cells in the gills. |
| Sharks have developed a different approach to removing excess salt | they distribute UREA in the internal fluids to prevent too much sea salt from entering. bitter meat |
| Feeding and escaping | sight,using lateral-lined system to detect low-frequency vibrations & their foods or enemies, counter shading coloring or cryptic coloration to hide from their enemies, schooling behavior for protecting each other, acceleratin rapidly-flying fish. |
| What is the most widely distributed marine reptile | sea turtle |
| sea turtles are endangered by | humans |
| How many species of sea turtles are there | 8 |
| who are the most abundant sea turtles | green sea turtles and most widespread of living species |
| Sea turtles return at ______yrs intervals to.... | 2,3,& 4yr intervals to lay eggs on the beach then hatch |
| How do sea turtles find the island/beach to hatch their eggs | they use solar angle, wind wave direction, smell, and visual cues |
| What are marine resources | Physical, Energy, biological,nonextractive, |
| Physical resources | petroleum and natural gas, methane hydrate deposits, marine sand and gravel, magnesium and compounts, salts, manganese nodules, phosphorite deposits, metallic sulfides, fresh water by desalination |
| *Energy resources | wind, waves, tides, and currents |
| *Biological resources | various marine lives, both animal and plants |
| *nonextractive resources | use the ocean for recreation and transportaion purposes |
| Renewable resources | marine resources that can be replaced by the growth of marine organisms or by natural physical processes |
| Nonrenewable resources | marine resources that are present in the ocean in fixed amounts and cannot be replenished over time spans as short as human lifetimes. |
| What physical marine resources have been developed and used in our daily life? | petroleum & natural gas, marine sand & gravel, magnesium and magnesium compounts, salts, fresh water by desalination |
| What resources have been explored but not developed for commercial purpose | manganese nodules, phosphorite deposits, metallic sulfides, methane hydrate deposits |
| Rance estuary in western France has | Tidal power |
| Hammerfest, Norway has | Tide turbines, under water causing motion for tides |
| What is OTEC | Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion |
| Total yield for all marine sources for 2001 | 130.2 Tons |
| Marine Pollution | introduction into the ocean by humans of substance or energy that changes the quality of the water or affects the physical, chemical, or biological environment |
| Sources of marine pollution | 44% runoff/discharge from land, 33% airborne emissions form land, 12% shipping and accidental spills, 10% Ocean dumping, 1% offshore mining, oil & gas drilling |
| Factors that affect the consequences of oil spill | Location & proximity to shore, quantity & composition of the oil, season of yr, oceanic conditions waves, currents, weather conditions at the time of release,composition & diversity of affected communities |
| oil spills most effected community | intertidal and shallow-water subtidal communities. |
| Synthetic Organic Chemicals (SOC) pollution | toxic synthetic organic chemicals are very persistent in the environment and may be biologically amplified. |
| Examples of SOC | benzene, carbon tetrachloride, chloroform, dioxin, ethylene dibromide, polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB), trichloroethylene, vinyl chloride |
| Rachel Carson | marine biologist and conservationist, wrote Silent Spring |
| Synthetic Organic Chemicals (SOC) pollution | Toxic synthetic organic chemicals are very persistent in the environment and may be biologically amplified. |
| Examples of SOC -m Synthetic Organic Chemical pollution | Benzene, Carbon tetrachloride, Chloroform, Dioxin, Ethylene dibromide, Polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), Trichloroethylene, and Vinyl chloride |
| who is Rachel Carson | marine biologist and conservationist, wrote Silent Spring and brought a ban on DDT |
| Biological Amplification | DDT as an example to show the process of biological amplification–The level of SOC in seawater is usually very low, but some organisms at higher levels in the food chain can concentrate these toxic substances in their flesh |
| Heavy Metal Pollution | Examples of heavy metal pollution –Heavy metals can be toxic in very small quantities. Reported heavy metal pollutions in marine environment include lead, mercury, cadmium, copper, and tributyl tin. |
| What is Eutrophication? | Eutrophication is a set of physical, chemical, and biological changes that take place when excessive nutrients are released into the water. |
| Can storm water bring pollutants to coastal waters | yes |
| kinds of pollution | solid waste, heat from power plants |
| Porifera-marine life | Sponges |
| Cnidaria-marine life | Coral, Jellyfish, sea anemones, siphonophores |