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oceanography BSC/BST
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| bathmetry | discovery and the study of ocean floor |
| continental margin | submerged outer edge of the continent |
| ocean basin | deep-sea floor beyond continental margin |
| passive margins | continental margins facing the edge of diverging plates passive because very little earthquakes or volcanic activity is now associated with them |
| active margins | continental margins active because near convergent plates of accumulated sediment |
| continental shelf | shallow submerged extension of a continent |
| continental slope | the transition between the gently descending continental shelf and the deep-ocean floor |
| shelf break | abrupt transition from continental shelf to continental slope |
| continental rise | oceanic crust at the base of the continent slop is covered by an apron of accumulated sediment |
| oceanic ridge | mountainous chain of young basaltic rock at the active spreading center of an ocean. |
| hydrothermal vents | hot springs on the ocean ridges, some form chimney's of mineral deposits |
| abyssal plains | flat featureless expanses of sediment-covered ocean floor on the periphery of all oceans. They are between the continental margins and the ocean ridges. |
| abyssal hills | small, sediment covered extinct volcanoes or intrusion of once molten rock, occur parallel to oceanic ridge |
| seamounts | volcanic projections that do not rise above the surface, more steep and taller than the other kind, near a trench |
| trenches | arc shaped depression in the deep ocean floor, where a converging oceanic plate is subducted, earthquakes and tsunami often originate from them |
| island arcs | associated with a near by trench and subduction zone, curving chains of volcanic |
| name three DENSITY layers of the ocean | 1. surface layer or mixed zone 2. pycnocline 3. deep zone |
| surface layer | temperature and salinty are consistent in this layer do to the motions of the waves and currents. consists of water in contact with atmosphere and exposed to sunlight. |
| pycnocline | zone where density increase with depth 18% of all ocean water, rapid density increase is due to decrease in water temperature |
| deep zone | 80% of all oceans little change in water density in this zone |
| thermocline | temperature drops rapidly with depth |
| halocline | salinity increases with depth, can be lower due to run off from shore, combines with thermocline to produce pycnocline |
| gyres | large whirlwinds of water in ocean basin, rotate clockwise in Northern Hemisphere rotate counterclockwise in southern hemisphere due to deflection |
| name five main gyres | North Pacific Gyres South Pacific Gyres North Atlantic Gyres South Atlantic Gyres Indian Ocean Gyres |
| geostrophic gyres | earth turning, in balance between the pressure gradient and Coriolis effect |
| west wind drift/antartic circumpolar current | flows endless eastwards around Antarctica driven by westerly wind |
| western boundary currents | fastest and deepest (off the east coast of continents) moves warm water poleward 1. Gulf stream, 2. Japan or Kuroshio Current 3. Brazil Current 4. Agulhas Current Indian 5. East Australian current |
| sverdrup (sv) | measures volume transported in ocean 1 million cubic meter per second |
| eastern current boundary | (off of west coast) Canary Current - North Atlantic 2. Benguela Current - South Atlantic 3. California Current - North Pacific 4. WEstern Austrian Current - Indian 5. Peru Hemboldt Current cold water to equator, shallow, broad, boundaries not well |
| Transverse Currents | trade winds driven flow from east to west and west to east North Equatorial Current South Equatorial Current moderately shallow and broad |
| Ekman spiral | each layer moves more slowly to the right / left down to 100 meters |
| Ekman transport | direction transport 90 degree to the right of the wind |
| waves | a ribbon of energy is moving at the speed of the wave but the water is not the wave |
| orbital wave | wave in which particle move in closed circles as the wave passes, occur at boundary of two fluid medium |
| wind waves | gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy |
| wind waves step 1 | less than 3 m high, wavelength |
| wind waves step 2 | grow from capillary waves- wind friction stretches water as surface tension tries to smooth |
| wind waves step 3 | capillary wave interrupts the smooth sea surface deflecting the surface wind, upward,causing winds energy to be transferred into water to drive wave forward then wind downward creating a vaccum atmospheric pressure pushes forward and energy trough |
| wind waves step 4 | large swells move faster, dispersion - separating wave by wavelength |
| factors influencing wave development | wind strength, duration, fetch uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows. |
| Five steps deep- water change to shallow water waves | 1. w trains moves feels bottom 1/2 wave 2. circle motion interrupted bottom flattens so w must be peaked 3. interaction with slows wl decreases period the same 4. w become too high approaching 1:7 5. surf zone - btw breaking wave and shore |
| wave refraction | slowing and bending of waves in shallow water |
| wave diffraction | propagation wave around an obstacle |
| eustatic change | variations in the sea level that can be measured the world over |
| three reasons for eustatic sea level changes | lower than periods of global ice age, higher during warmer time periods rapid sea floor spreading can cause water to be displaced and rise higher in the continent. volume of the water itself can change. as it is warmer it expands |
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