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Unit 5 Vocabulary

Unit 5 Vocabulary Strategy

TermDefinition
Wave height Vertical distance between crest and trough.
Wavelength Distance between two consecutive crest or two consecutive troughs.
Crest Highest part of wave.
Trough Lowest part of a wave.
Wave frequency The number of waves passing a fixed point of time measured in Hertz.
Wave period Time it takes for one wavelength to pass a specific point.
Wave steepness Ratio of wave height to wavelength.
Spilling breakers Waves that arise from long waves breaking on gently sloping beaches.
Plunging breakers Largest wave that can occur on steeply sloping beaches and attracts surfers.
Surging breakers Waves surge over steepest sloping beaches.
Constructive Interference Waves become larger by building or adding to wave crests.
Destructive Interference Waves become smaller by destroying or subtracting wave crests.
Ebb current Rapid draining out of water from a bay during low tide.
Spring Tide Stronger tides where the earth, sun, and moon are aligned.
Neap Tide Weaker tides where earth, moon, and sun form right angles.
Semidiurnal Tide 2 high tides and 2 low tides that are nearly the same height.
Diurnal Tide One high tide and one low tide each day.
Orbital Wave A wave in which particles of water move in closed circles.
Rogue Wave A "freak wave" that would be larger than any wave before it.
Berm Accumulation of sediment that runs parallel to the shore and marks the normal limit of sand deposition by wave action.
Created by: chriswarren
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