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Chapter 7
Chemistry, Pivot Point Esthetics
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Chemistry | Scientific study of matter. |
| Chemists | Scientists who study matter, its properties and changes. |
| Biochemistry | Study of chemical reactions. |
| Organic Chemistry | Study of matter containing carbon. Deals with all matter that is, or was once, living. |
| Inorganic Chemistry | Study of matter that does not contain carbon. Deals with all matter that was never living. |
| Matter | Anything that takes up space. |
| Solids | Matter that has a definite weight, volume and shape. |
| Liquids | Matter with definite weight and volume, but no shape. |
| Gases | Matter with definite weight, but indefinite volume and shape. |
| Physical Change | Change in the physical form of a substance without creating a new substance (water to ice). |
| Chemical change | A change in matter that produces one or more new substances (Oxygen combines with hydrogen to make water). |
| Sublimation | Process of a solid or gas changing states without becoming a liquid. |
| Energy | Ability to do work and cause change. |
| Atomic Number | Number of protons in an atom, shown in the periodic table with the element. |
| Elements | Basic units of matter that cannot be broken down into smaller units. |
| Periodic Law | Unifying concept to organize elements and their similarities. |
| carbon (C), oxygen (O), hydrogen (H), nitrogen (N), Sulfur (S) | Elements with the most interest to the Esthetician |
| Oxygen | Most abundant element in the earth's crust and second most abundant in the atmosphere. |
| Atoms | Smallest complete unit of an element. |
| 3 parts of an atom | proton, neutron, electron |
| Proton | Positively charged particle. |
| Neutron | Neither positive nor negatively charged. |
| Electron | Negatively charged particle. |
| Molecular Weight | Protons plus neutrons equals. |
| Nucleus | Control center of the cell. |
| Electrically neutral/Stable atom | Overall charge of the atom is zero (positive and negative forces are equal) |
| Unstable/Reactive atoms | Missing electrons in outer shell. |
| Molecule | Smallest particle of a compound that has all the chemical properties of that compound. |
| Compound | Substance formed by the chemical combination of two or more elements. |
| Oxidation | Loss of electrons. |
| Reduction | Gain of an electron. |
| Ion | Charged atom. |
| Ionic bond | Attraction between oppositely charged ions. |
| Covalent bond | A chemical bond formed when two atoms share electrons. |
| Chemical Bond | Force that holds atoms together. |
| Proteins, Carbohydrates and Lipids | 3 major biochemical compounds groups in the body. |
| Proteins | Basic materials the body uses to construct and renew itself. |
| Enzymes | Dissolve and breakdown large molecules into smaller ones. |
| Amino Acids | Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen that join in chains to form proteins. |
| Peptide Bond and Polypeptide chains | How amino acid compounds are joined. |
| Peptide bond | Bond uniting 2 amino acid groups. |
| Polypeptide chain | Chain of amino acids. |
| Monomers | Building blocks of polymers. |
| Polymers | Groups of monomers that bond together. |
| Carbohydrates | Example of monomers and polymers found in the body. Used to store energy, contain a combination of carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O) which are arranged in a chain. |
| Saccharides | Simple unit of a carbohydrate. |
| Monosaccharides | Single saccharide, simple sugars such as glucose. |
| Disaccharides | 2 monosaccharides joined together. One example is sucrose (table sugar). |
| Polysaccharides | Many saccharides linked together, such as starch. |
| Lipids | Energy-rich organic compounds, such as triglycerides, fats, and steroids, that are made of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen and fill the intercellular spaces in the skin. |
| Potential Hydrogen (pH) | A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. |
| Acidic solution | Contains more hydrogen ions than hydroxide ions. |
| Alkaline solution | Contains more hydroxide ions than hydrogen ions. |
| Neutral solution | Concentrations of hydrogen and hydroxide ions are equal. |
| Acid | Releases a hydrogen ion and is positively charged. |
| Alkaline | Term used for describing a base. Releases hydroxide ions that are negatively charged. |
| PH Scale | Measurement system used to indicate the concentration of hydrogen ions (H+) in solution; ranges from 0 to 14. |
| Logarithmic | Each number on the pH scale increases by multiples of 10. |
| pH balanced | Means the pH is balanced to a certain number but not necessarily 4.5-5.5. |
| Acid balanced | Balanced within the acid range of 4.5-5.5 |
| Acid mantle | Protective barrier of lipids and secretions on the surface of the skin. |
| Mixture | Two or more compounds blended together physically . |
| Solution | Mixture of 2 or more chemicals in which each is evenly distributed in the mixture to form a complete blending. |
| Solute | A substance that is dissolved in a solution. |
| Solvent | A liquid substance capable of dissolving other substances. |
| Saturation point | Point at which the Solute will no longer dissolve in the solvent. |
| Water | Has a pH of 7 and is known as the universal solvent. |
| Miscible | Easily mix together. For example sugar and water. |
| Immiscible | Don't mix easily. For example oil and water. |
| Suspension | Even dispersion of a solid substance in liquid. |
| Gel | A product that has been formulated with a thickening agent to increase its viscosity. |
| Viscosity | A liquid's resistance to flow (thickness or density). |
| Powder | Finely ground solid mixed evenly with additional ingredients. |
| Ointment | Anhydrous (without water) substance based on a mixture of oils and waxes normally having the texture of a paste. |
| Stick | A hard, low-level water or anhydrous product applied to the skin by rubbing the product directly on the desired area. |
| Aerosol | A product packaged under pressure and blended with a propellant (gas) inside a container, which is usually a can i.e. hairspray. |
| Emulsion | Mixture of two or more immiscible liquids in which one liquid is dispersed in the other, united by small droplets of a binder (emulsifier). |
| Oil in water (O/W) emulsion | Oil droplets dispersed in a water with the aid of an emulsifying agent. |
| Water in Oil (W/O) emulsion | Droplets of water dispersed in an oil. |
| Emulsifier | A stabilizing agent in emulsions, used to slow down the destruction of the product. Used in concentrations from less than 1%-4%. |
| Active ingredients | The ingredients responsible for producing the desired effect. |
| The Cosmetics, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) | Devised the current system of nomenclature for each ingredient in products. |
| International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) | List of ingredient names based on the International Cosmetic Dictionary. |
| Order ingredients are listed on product. | Highest weight concentration first, then next highest until reaching concentrations of 1% or less, then they are typically shown as the most desirable first down to the least desirable. |
| Humectants | Organic ingredients that bind water and deposit it onto the skin. Typically found in products at concentrations of 1%-10%. |
| Emollients | Oils and oil-soluble substances used to soften the skin by providing an occlusive barrier. |
| Occlusive Barrier | Created by Emollients and seal in moisture. |
| Fatty acids | Come from both plant and animal sources. Commonly used in cosmetics such as cremes and lotions to keep them firm, yet soft, and easy to apply to the skin. |
| Fatty alcohols | Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen. |
| Surfactants | Substances that allow oil and water to mix or emulsify. In products they can be found in concentrations ranging from 2%-20%. |
| Thickeners/Viscosity Modifier | Ingredients that increase density in emulsions and gel-type products. Typically range from 0.1%-1% of a product. |
| Botanicals | Ingredients derived from plants. In cosmetic products the concentration used is usually less than 5%. |
| Preservatives | Included in cosmetic products to maintain microbiological integrity or product quality during manufacturing, storage, and use by the consumer, ex. Parabens, Hydroxybenzoates |
| Chelating Agents | Ingredients added to a product to enhance the effectiveness of the preservative. |
| Coloring agents | Vegetable, mineral or pigment dyes that are added to products to enhance the products appearance. |
| Hypoallergenic | Less likely to cause allergies. |
| Fragrance free | Means that a product has less than 1% fragrance added, or no fragrance added at all. |
| Antibacterial | Destroy bacteria that can cause problems such as acne or other infections. |
| pH adjusters | Acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products. Also known as buffering. |
| Comedogenic | Tendency for an ingredient to clog follicles and cause a buildup of dead skin cells, resulting in comedones. |
| Non-comedogenic | Products less likely to clog pores. |
| Sunscreens (UV absorbers or blockers) | Active ingredients used in a variety of product types to block or absorb UV emitted by the sun. Considered a drug product under FDA guidelines. |
| Antioxidants | Ingredients used in certain types of treatment products to prevent skin inflammation and damage due to free radicals. |
| Free radicals | Unstable molecules that cause biochemical aging, especially wrinkling and sagging of the skin. |
| Co-enzyme Q-10 (Ubiquinone) | Is a powerful antioxidant that occurs naturally in human cells, aid in the production of cellular energy, circulation, stimulates the immune system, increases tissue oxygenation and improves the appearance of aging skin. |
| Silicones | Ingredients derived from a silicone base free of contaminants are environmentally friendly unlike petroleum derivatives. |
| Cyclomethicone | Non comedogenic emollient that gives products a silky feel |
| Dimethicone | Gives products lubricity, or "slip". |
| Dimethicone copolyol | Silicone ingredient that makes products feel soft, especially sunscreens. |
| Hydroxy Acids | Organic acids extracted from a variety of natural sources including fruits, sugar, and milk. May be used at concentrations 30% or less. |
| Kinetin | Essential growth factor that prevents premature aging. |
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