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Geology Ch. 18
Oceans and Coasts
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Coast | The belt of land bordering the sea. |
| Continental shelf | A broad, shallowly submerged fringe of a continent; ocean-water depth over the continental shelf is generally less than 200 meters; the widest continental shelves occur over passive margins. |
| Bathymetry | Variation in depth. |
| Abyssal plain | A broad, relatively flat region of the ocean that lies at least 4.5 km below sea level. |
| Active continental margin | A continental margin that coincides with a plate boundary. |
| Submarine canyon | A narrow, steep canyon that dissects a continental shelf and slope. |
| Pelagic sediment | Microscopic plankton shells and fine flakes of clay that settle out and accumulate on the deep-ocean floor. |
| Seamount | An isolated submarine mountain. |
| Salinity | The degree of concentration of salt in water. |
| Current | (1) A well-defined stream of ocean water; (2) the moving flow of water in a stream. |
| Coriolis effect | The deflection of objects, winds, and currents on the surface of the Earth owing to the planet's rotation. |
| Tide | The daily rising or falling of sea level at a given point on the Earth. |
| Tidal range | The difference in sea level between high tide and low tide at a given point. |
| Thermohaline circulation | The rising and sinking of water driven by contrasts in water density, which is due in turn to differences in temperature and salinity; this circulation involves both surface and deep-water currents in the ocean. |
| Tide-generating force | The force, caused in part by the gravitational attraction of the Sun and Moon and in part by the centrifugal force created by the Earth's spin, that generates tides. |
| Wave base | The depth, approximately equal in distance to half a wavelength in a body of water, beneath which there is no wave movement. |
| Rogue wave | Waves that are two to five times the size of most of the large waves passing a locality in a given time interval. |
| Wave refraction | The bending of waves as they approach a shore so that their crests make no more than a 5° angle with the shoreline. |
| Backwash | The gravity-driven flow of water back down the slope of a beach. |
| Swash | The upward surge of water that flows up a beach slope when breakers crash onto the shore. |
| Longshore current | The flow of water parallel to the shore just off a coast, because of the diagonal movement of waves toward the shore. |
| Longshore drift | The movement of sediment laterally along a beach; it occurs when waves wash up a beach diagonally. |
| Beach | A gently sloping fringe of sediment along the shore. |
| Sand spit | An area where the beach stretches out into open water across the mouth of a bay or estuary. |
| Bioturbation | The mixing of sediment by burrowing animals such as clams and worms. |
| Estuary | An inlet in which seawater and river water mix; created when a coastal valley is flooded because of either rising sea level or land subsidence. |
| Organic coast | A coast along which living organisms control landforms along the shore. |
| Coastal wetland | A flat-lying coastal area that floods during high tide and drains during low tide, and hosts salt-resistant plants. |
| Fjord | A deep, glacially carved, U-shaped valley flooded by rising sea level. |
| Coral reef | A mound of coral and coral debris forming a region of shallow water. |
| Guyot | A seamount that had a coral reef growing on top of it, so that it is now flat-crested. |
| Emergent coast | A coast where the land is rising relative to sea level or sea level is falling relative to the land. |
| Coastal plain | Low-relief regions of land adjacent to the coast. |
| Submergent coast | A coast at which the land is sinking relative to sea level. |
| Storm surge | Excess seawater driven landward by wind during a storm; the low atmospheric pressure beneath the storm allows sea level to rise locally, increasing the surge. |
| Beach erosion | The removal of beach sand caused by wave action and longshore currents. |