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# Waves & Tides

### Test 2;Aquatic Science

TermDefinition
Wave Transmission of energy through matter.
Progressive Waves: Longitudinal Waves move through all states of matter and occur when energy moves in the same direction with the matter
Progressive Waves: Transverse Waves only transmit through solids. Occur when energy motion is perpendicular to travel direction
Progressive Waves: Orbital Waves Only transmit though fluids. Occur when energy moves through fluid in a circular motion as it passes.
Speed of a Wave Wavelength/Period
Crest Highest point of a wave
Trough Lowest point of a wave
Height Vertical Measurement from trough to crest
Wavelength Horizontal distance between two identical parts of a wave (Ex: Crest to crest)
Period Time it takes for two waves to hit the same spot. (time in between waves)
Frequency The number of waves that pass the same fixed point in one second
Disturbing Forces Wind, gravity, and seismic activity (earthquakes)
Deep Water Waves occur in water that is half their wavelength
Shallow Water Waves Occur in water that is shallower than half the wavelength
Factors That Affect Maximum Wave Size -Wind speed faster than the wave. -Wave duration. -Fetch (surface area in which the wind blows)
When does a wave break? in deep water, a wave breaks when its heighth exceeds one seventh of its wavelength
Storm Surge destructive wave that forms when high winds push water against shore where it piles up.
Seiches Form in bodies of water smaller than an ocean as a waves that rocks back and forth. It results form a strong wind that pushes water level up on one side of a lake
Tsunamis Result form sudden water displacement caused by a landslide, iceberg, volcanic eruption or more commoly an earthquake
Standing Wave Vertical oscillation in which water rocks back and forth rising and falling at the ends, but realitively montionless at the center.
Correolis effect tendency for the path of an object moving in the North Hemisphere to deflect to the right or the left in the Southern Hemisphere.
Gyre Circular flow of currents in an ocean basin due to the correolis effect
Tides result from the gravitational pull mostly from the moon, but also the sun
Newton's Equalibrium Theory Thought the world was perfectly uniform; proved to be wrong
Laplace's Modification: Dynamic Theory modified Newton's model to account for tidal cariation. He discovered there are not two, but severaltidal bulges
Amphidromatic Points Points where water doesnt rise or fall with the tides, just rotates
Diurnal tides single high and low tides in a 24-hour period. This is seen on the Gulf Coast
SemiDiurnal Tides Two roughly equal high and low tides daily
Flood Current inflow of a tide
Slack Current outflow of a tide
Slack Tide midpoint of a tide
Created by: Indierrr