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oceanography 1
waves
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| wave period | The time it takes for two successive wave crests to pass a given point. |
| Wave height | The vertical distance between trough and crest, usually expressed in feet |
| wave length | The horizontal distance between successive wave crests measured perpendicular to the crest, usually expressed in feet |
| orbital wave | A seismic wave that travels across the surface of the Earth as opposed to through it. Surface waves usually have larger amplitudes and longer wavelengths than body waves, and they travel more slowly than body waves do. |
| rouge wave | also known as freak waves, or extreme waves, are relatively large and spontaneous ocean surface waves which are a threat even to large ships and ocean liners |
| neap tide | a less than average tide occurring at the first and third quarters of the moon. |
| crest | The highest part of a wave |
| springtide | A tide just after a new or full moon. |
| trough | A long, narrow depression, as between waves or ridges |
| wave steepness | The ratio of wave height to wave length.*. |
| wave frequency | Number of crests or troughs of a wave that pass a given point in a specified period of time, usually 1 second.. |
| spilling breaker | Oversteepened wave in which the unstable top of the wave spills down the front of the wave-form as it advances into shallower water. Consequently it gradually diminishes in height until it moves up the beach as swash. |
| destructive interference | a phenomenon in which two waves superimpose to form a resultant wave of greater or lower amplitude. |
| plunging breaker | Impressive Curling breakers that form on moderately sloping beaches. (best for surfing). |
| semidiurnal tide | Tides are the rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the Sun |
| surging breaker | A compressed breaking wave that builds up over a short distance and surges forward as it breaks. |
| flood current | The movement of a TIDAL CURRENT toward the SHORE or up a tidal STREAM. In the SEMIDIURNAL type of reversing current |
| ebb current | Movement of a tidal current away from shore or down a tidal river or estuary |
| constructive interference | interference is the addition (superposition) of two or more waves that results in a new wave pattern. |
Created by:
lukegriffis
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