glossary of color
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| alkaline substance | an ingredient in hair color that has a pH greater than 7, causing the cuticle to open and permanent color to enter the cortex.
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| ammonia(NH3) | most common source of alkaline substance in a single- and double-process tint. opens the cuticle to allow color intermediates to penetrate.
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| aniline derivative | a coal tar derivative that creates the dye intermediates used in single-process permanent haircoloring.
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| base | ingredient of permanent haircolor that holds the product together; can be a creme, oil, protein, wax, gel, or shampoo.
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| base color(BC) | your client's natural or existing haircolor.
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| bleach | product used to lighten hair. usually mixed with hydrogen peroxide and highly alkaline.
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| brassy | term used to describe color that is off-color and contains too much warmth, either gold or orange.
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| certified hair colors | tints (temporary) registered and deemed safe by the FDA.
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| chelating agents | act to remove unwanted build up such as metallic ions and metallic deposits; common ingredient in cleansing or clarifying shampoos.
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| clarifier | a treatment that removes unwanted buildup on the hair.
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| color base | the portion of the hair color mixture that connects or holds the other ingredients together. referred to as the dominant color in any given shade or series.
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| color wheel | the universal guide for color mixing and formulation.
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| complementary color | colors that look best and brightest when placed next to eachother when mixed, they neutralize on another.
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| cool | lack of warmth, no warm tones; ash
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| corrective color | process of changing or correcting overlightened or damaged hair;can also refer to major changes in the color of the hair.
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| cortex | is where the color molecules are; main inner body of the hair shaft that is fibrous and contains the protein structure of the hair.
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| creme oil bleach | a bleach that contains oil making it more gentle on the scalp.
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| cuticle | extremely thin protective outer layer of the hair shaft consisting of over lapping scales.
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| decolorize | the process of removing natural or artificial pigment from the hair.
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| deposit(+) | the portion of single-process oxidation when the color intermediates enter the cortex of the hair.
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| developer | the oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, that causes the haircolor formula to activate when mixed with color product.
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| direct dye | used in semi-permanent color, it is a molecule that has color.
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| *dominant remaining pigment(DRP) | the color that controls or overpowers other colors or hues within the lifting process of haircoloring.
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| double-process | process that includes fighting prelightening or decolorizing the hair with bleach then coloring with and oxidation tint or toner.
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| drab | a term used to describe ash, cool, or blue tones that neutralize unwanted warm tones.
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| fade | the loss of color intensity and depth.
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| filler | temporary replacement of lost pigment for overporous hair before the application of tint formula.
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| food and drug administration(FDA) | federal agency that regulates materials used in haircoloring.
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| gold bands | undesirable brassy or gold tones that occur when hair is not lightened long enough.
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| hair shaft | term used to describe the portion of each strand of hair that lies between 1/2 inch out from the scalp up to any porous ends.
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| henna | a vegetable dye that originated in asia centuries ago. a coating dye
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| humectants | a chemical or substance in hair products helping the hair to retain moisture (water).
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| hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) | common oxidizing substance mixed with hair tint that develops the hair color and causes oxidation.
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| keratin | the strong, fibrous, insoluble protein that comprises approximately 95% of the hair shaft.
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| humectants | a chemical or substance in hair products helping the hair to retain moisture (water).
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| law of color | the primary colors and how they combine to make all other color.
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| hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) | common oxidizing substance mixed with hair tint that develops the hair color and causes oxidation.
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| keratin | the strong, fibrous, insoluble protein that comprises approximately 95% of the hair shaft.
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| law of color | the primary colors and how they combine to make all other color.
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| level | exact measurement that determines the degree of light or dark in each color. use 10 levels to determine color formulas.
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| lift | removing, subtracting, or lightening color from the hair.
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| level system | system of permanent haircoloring using levels of color as a standard.
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| lift | removing, subtracting, or lightening color from the hair.
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| line of demarcation | the line of regrowth between colored hair and natural.
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| lightening | process of removing or subtracting pigment from the hair.
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| melanin | natural pigment of the hair, most of which is usually found in the cortex.
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| line of demarcation | the line of regrowth between colored hair and natural.
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| melanin | natural pigment of the hair, most of which is usually found in the cortex.
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| metallic dyes | dyes that are made from metallic salts. they coat the hair and are progressive, getting increasingly dark and coated.
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| molecules | groups of atoms joined by chemical bonds.
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| multiporous | hair that has more than one porosity within the strand.
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| *oxidation | reaction occurring when permanent tints are mixed with hydrogen peroxide, determined by the volume of H2O2 used,can also be dictated by the percentage of NH3 in a formula.
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| *oxidative dyes | colorless intermediate molecules that develop into a color on mixing with hydrogen peroxide.
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| para-phenol pigments | a coal tar of aniline derivative most often found in hair color and responsible for the pigmentation.
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| para-phenylenediamine(PPD) | the basic, original aniline derivative used in single-process haircoloring.
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| permanent hair color | synthetic or organic dye that penetrates into the cortex of the hair and does not wash out.
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| pH | refers to the degree of alkalinity or acidity of a solution. neutral (water) is 7; anything below is acid; above is alkaline.
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| permanent hair color | synthetic or organic dye that penetrates into the cortex of the hair and does not wash out.
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| porosity | the hair's ability to absorb liquid of moisture.
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| pH | refers to the degree of alkalinity or acidity of a solution. neutral (water) is 7; anything below is acid; above is alkaline.
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| porous | describes condition of cuticle when it is raised and open, allowing moisture and liquid to absorb.
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| powdered bleach | and alkaline product generally used in off-the -scalp bleach,which has less moisturizers in the formula.
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| predisposition test | a skin test that determines sensitivity of allergy to a products chemicals.
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| porous | describes condition of cuticle when it is raised and open, allowing moisture and liquid to absorb.
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| prelighten | first remove excess pigment from the hair. two-step coloring, usually means lifting to one level lighter than target color.
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| powdered bleach | and alkaline product generally used in off-the -scalp bleach,which has less moisturizers in the formula.
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| presoften | prepares resistant hair for better penetration of the hair color formula.
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| primary colors | refers to the three basic colors of the color wheel, red, yellow,and blue.
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| progressive tint | any hair dye that continues processing until removed, or gets darker with each application.
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| repigmentizing | the same as filler.
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| rinses | temporary colors that coat the cuticle of the hair and normally do not penetrate the cortex.
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| presoften | prepares resistant hair for better penetration of the hair color formula.
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| secondary colors | colors created when pairs of primaries are mixed.
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| shade | the degree of lightness and dark; it takes approximately three shades equal one level.
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| primary colors | refers to the three basic colors of the color wheel, red, yellow,and blue.
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| shade system | the system of permanent haircoloring using shade or tones, hues as its standard for categorizing.
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| single-process | haircoloring procedure that lifts and deposits in one application.
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| soap cap | diluting remaining color formula with shampoo to prevent ends darkening with end application.
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| strand test | a sample formula applied to a small portion of the hair to check expected results.
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| target color | the desired end result of color.
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| tertiary color | color created when a primary is mixed with its neighboring secondary.
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| theory | scientific information that is supposed to work.
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| tonal value | the value assigned to color that allows for description and distinction from another.
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| tone on tone (TNT) | corresponding tones used for tinting in layers of color. creating by layering lightening formula over deposit color in random streaks or with foils.
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| repigmentizing | the same as filler.
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| rinses | temporary colors that coat the cuticle of the hair and normally do not penetrate the cortex.
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| secondary colors | colors created when pairs of primaries are mixed.
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| shade | the degree of lightness and dark; it takes approximately three shades equal one level.
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| shade system | the system of permanent haircoloring using shade or tones, hues as its standard for categorizing.
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| single-process | haircoloring procedure that lifts and deposits in one application.
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| soap cap | diluting remaining color formula with shampoo to prevent ends darkening with end application.
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| strand test | a sample formula applied to a small portion of the hair to check expected results.
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| target color | the desired end result of color.
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| tertiary color | color created when a primary is mixed with its neighboring secondary.
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| theory | scientific information that is supposed to work.
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| tonal value | the value assigned to color that allows for description and distinction from another.
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| tone on tone (TNT) | corresponding tones used for tinting in layers of color. creating by layerin lightening formu
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| vegetable dyes | color derived from plant sources.
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| warm zone (HOT ROOTS) | the area of the hair shaft that develops tint more easily, within 1/2 inch of the scalp and body heat.
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