Properties of the Hair & Scalp
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| Trichology | the scientific study of the hair, it's diseases, and its care
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| Integument | The hair, skin and nails is collectively known as the
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| Root, Shaft | A mature stand of hair is divided into what 2 parts?
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| Root | located below the surface of the scalp
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| Shaft | the portion of the hair that projects above the skin
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| Follicle, Bulb, Dermal Papilla, Arrector Pili, Sebaceous Glands | What are the 5 structures of the hair root?
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| Dermal Papilla | Which part of the root contains the blood and nerve supply that provides the nutrients needed for hair growth?
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| Hair Bulb | *Thickened, club shape structure that forms the lower part of the hair root *Lowest part of a hair strand
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| Follicle | *Tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair *Surrounds the dermal papilla
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| Arrector Pili | Which muscle when contracted cause goosebumps?
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| Sebum | An oily substance secreted from the sebaceous glands that lubricate the hair and skin
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| Cuticle, Cortex, Medulla | What are the 3 main layers of the hair shaft?
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| Cuticle | What is the outermost layer of the hair?
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| Cuticle layer | *Provides a barrier that protects the inner structure of hair *Creates shine and silkiness *Looks like shingles on a roof
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| Protects hair from penetration & prevents damage to the hair fiber | What does a healthy cuticle layer protect?
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| In order to penetrate the cuticle layer, because a high pH swells the cuticle causing it to lift and expose the cortex | Why must haircolors,permanent waving solutions and chemical hair relaxers have an alkaline pH?
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| The middle layer | Which layer of the hair is the cortex?
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| 90% | What % of weight of the hair comes from the cortex?
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| Cortex |
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| Medulla | The innermost layer of the hair that is composed of round cells
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| Protein | Hair is composed of ________ that grows from cells originating within the hair follicle.
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| Keratinization | The maturation of these cells is a process called
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| Living cells mature through Keratinization. As they mature, they fill up with keratin, then move upward, lose their nucleus and die. | Explain why hair is not a living thing.
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| Carbon 51% Oxygen 21% Hydrogen 6% Nitrogen 17% Sulfur 5% | What are the main elements that make up human hair and their percentages in normal hair? **COHNS Elements**
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| Amino Acid | *The unit of structure that builds protein *Linked together end to end like pop beads
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| Helix | The spiral shape of a coiled protein
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| Peptide Bond | *The chemical bond that links amino acids *Also called an end bond
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| Polypeptide Chain | *A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds *Cross linked like the rungs on ladder by 3 different kinds of salt bonds
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| Hydrogen Bond, Salt Bond, Disulfide Bond | Polypeptide chains are cross-linked together using 3 different types of cross links called
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| Hydrogen Bond | *A weak physical side bond that is easily broken by water or heat *Weakest of all bonds *Creates a TEMPORARY physical change in the hair *Account for 1/3 of the hair's overall strength
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| Salt Bonds | *Weak , TEMP side bonds between adjacent polypeptide chains *Greatly affected by changes in pH *Cause the hair to sell and the cuticle to lift
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| Disulfide | *A strong chemical side bond that joins the sulfur atom of 2 neighboring cysteine amino acids to create cystine *2nd strongest bond in hair, also called a sulfur bond * Not broken by heat or water *Altered only by salon chemicals.
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| Lanthionine Bonds | *The bonds created when disulfide bonds are broken by hydroxide chemical hair relaxers after the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. *Broken PERMANENTLY and can never be reformed
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| Cortex | The layer of the hair that all natural color is located in
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| Melanin | tiny grains of pigment that give natural color to hair
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| Eumalanin Pheomelanin | What are the 2 types of melanin?
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| Eumalanin | provides brown and black color to hair
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| Pheomelanin | provides color ranging from red and ginger to yellow/blond tones
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| Wave Pattern | Refers to the shape of the hair strand and is described as straight, wavy, curly or extremely curly
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| Genetics | Natural wave pattern is the result of _______.
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| Oval | In extremely curly hair, cross sections are highly _____ and vary in shape and thickness along their length.
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| Texture Porosity Elasticity Density | What are the 4 most important factors to consider in hair analysis?
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| Texture | Thickness/diameter of the individual hair strand
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| Porosity | The ability to absorb moisture
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| Elasticity | The ability of the hair to stretch and return to it's original length without breaking
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| Density | measures the number of hair strands on 1 square inch of the scalp
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| Course Medium Fine | What are the 3 classifications of hair texture?
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| Course | *Has largest diameter *More difficult to process
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| Medium | *Most common *No special problems or concerns
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| Fine | *Smallest diameter *Most fragile *Easily processes
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| Low Medium High | Hair density can be classified as?
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| 2200 | What is the average hair density per square inch?
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| 100,000 | How many hairs does the average head contain?
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| The condition of the cuticle layer | What is the degree of porosity directly related to?
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| Porous | ______ hair has a raised cuticle that easily absorbs moisture
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| Less akaline solutions | Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require what type of solutions?
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| Normal | Hair with average porosity is considered ______.
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| Overly porous hair | What type of hair is damaged, dry, fragile and brittle?
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| How to check for porosity | Take a strand from 4 different areas (front, hairline, temple, crown and nape). Hold the strand with one hand while sliding thumb and forefinger of other hand from end to scalp
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| If it feels smooth... | and the cuticle is compact, dense and hard it is considered resistant.
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| If you can feel a slight roughness... | it is considered porous.
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| If the hair feels very rough or dry or breaks... | it is considered highly porous and may have been overly processed.
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| 50% | Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to ____ of it's original length and return without breaking.
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| 20% | How much does dry hair stretch?
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| False | Hair follicles always from perpendicular (90 degree angle) to the scalp
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| Hair stream | Hair following in the same direction
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| Whorl | Hair that forms in a circular pattern
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| Cowlick | A tuft of hair that stands straight up
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| Overactive sebaceous glands Improper shampooing | What causes oily hair and scalp?
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| Inactive sebaceous glands Excessive shampooing Dry air/climate | What cause dry hair and scalp?
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| Vellus Terminal | What are the 2 types of hair found on the body?
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| Vellus | *Short, fine and downy *Not pigmented *Almost never has a medulla *Usually found on infants and young children *In adults, it's found on most areas of body, not including scalp
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| Terminal | *Courser than vellus *It's pigmented with the exception of grey hair *Usually has a medulla
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| Scalp Legs Arms Pelvis area | Where is terminal hair found?
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| Anagen Catagen Telogen | What are the 3 phases of a hair cycle? **A.C.T.**
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| Anagen | *The growth phase of hair (when new hair is produced) *Generally last from 3-5 years but can last up to 10 years
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| 90% | What percentage of hair is in the anagen phase at any given time?
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| Catagen | *The brief transition period between the growth and resting phases *Signals the end of the growth phase *Last from 1 -2 weeks
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| Telegen | *The resting phase *Final phase and lasts until the fully grown hair is shed *Last approx. 3-6 months
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| 1/2 inch | What is the average growth of healthy hair per month?
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| 1% | What percentage is in the catagen phase at any one time?
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| 10 % | What percentage is in the telogen phase at any one tim
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| Alopecia | Abnormal hair loss
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| Androgenic/Androgenetic alopecia | *Causes miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to vellus *The result of genetics, age and hormonal changes
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| Male Pattern Baldness | *In men, Androgentic Alopecia is known as______. *It usually progresses to the familiar horseshoe shaped fringe of hair.
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| 40% | How many people does androgenic alopecia affect in the United States?
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| Alopecia Areata | *The sudden falling out of hair in round patches or baldness in spots *May occur on the scalp and elsewear on the body
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| Postpartum Alopecia | A temporary hair loss experienced at the conclusion of a pregnancy
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| Minoxidil (Men & Women) Finasteride (Men Only) | What are the only 2 products that have been proven to stimulate hair growth and are approved by the FDA?
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| Transplants | *Most common surgical procedure for hair loss *Consist of removing small sections of hair usually from the back and transplanting into the bald area
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| Wigs Toupees Hair Weaving Hair Extensions | What non-medical options can a hairstylists offer to counter hair loss?
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| Canites | Technical term for grey hair
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| Ringed Hair | A variety of canites characterized by alternating bands of grey and pigmented hair through out the length of the hair strand.
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| Hypertrichosis | *Also known as Hirsuties *A condition of abnormal hair growth *Characterized by the growth terminal hair in areas where only vellus hair grows *ex, mustache, beard on women
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| Trichoptilosis | Technical term for split ends
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| Trichoptilosis Nodosa | *Knotted hair *Characterized by brittleness and the formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft. *Hair breaks easily, and the broken fibers spread out like a brush along the hair shaft
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| Monilethrix | *Technical term for beaded hair *The hair breaks easily between the beads or nodes.
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| Fragilitas Crinium | *Technical term for brittle hair *The hairs may split at any part of it's length.
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| Congential Aquired | What are the 2 types of canities?
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| Pityriasis | Medical term for dandruff
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| Tinea | Medical term for ringworm
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| Tinea Capitis | *Ringworm of the scalp *Fungal infection characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicles
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| Scabies | Caused by a parasite called a mite that burrows under the skin
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| Pediculosis Capitis | Head lice
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| Furuncle | An acute, localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle
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| Carbuncle | An inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci
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| Malassezia | naturally occuring fungus that is present on all human skin, and is responsible for dandruff
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| Pityriasis Capitis Simplex | technical term for classic dandruff, characterized by scalp irritation, large flake and itchy scalp
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| Pityriasis Steatoides | a severe type of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales mixed with sebum
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| Tinea | *Characterized by itching, scales and sometimes painful circular lesions *Very contagious
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