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Ch 9 Milady's 2008
Properties of the Hair & Scalp
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Trichology | the scientific study of the hair, it's diseases, and its care |
| Integument | The hair, skin and nails is collectively known as the |
| Root, Shaft | A mature stand of hair is divided into what 2 parts? |
| Root | located below the surface of the scalp |
| Shaft | the portion of the hair that projects above the skin |
| Follicle, Bulb, Dermal Papilla, Arrector Pili, Sebaceous Glands | What are the 5 structures of the hair root? |
| Dermal Papilla | Which part of the root contains the blood and nerve supply that provides the nutrients needed for hair growth? |
| Hair Bulb | *Thickened, club shape structure that forms the lower part of the hair root *Lowest part of a hair strand |
| Follicle | *Tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair *Surrounds the dermal papilla |
| Arrector Pili | Which muscle when contracted cause goosebumps? |
| Sebum | An oily substance secreted from the sebaceous glands that lubricate the hair and skin |
| Cuticle, Cortex, Medulla | What are the 3 main layers of the hair shaft? |
| Cuticle | What is the outermost layer of the hair? |
| Cuticle layer | *Provides a barrier that protects the inner structure of hair *Creates shine and silkiness *Looks like shingles on a roof |
| Protects hair from penetration & prevents damage to the hair fiber | What does a healthy cuticle layer protect? |
| In order to penetrate the cuticle layer, because a high pH swells the cuticle causing it to lift and expose the cortex | Why must haircolors,permanent waving solutions and chemical hair relaxers have an alkaline pH? |
| The middle layer | Which layer of the hair is the cortex? |
| 90% | What % of weight of the hair comes from the cortex? |
| Cortex | |
| Medulla | The innermost layer of the hair that is composed of round cells |
| Protein | Hair is composed of ________ that grows from cells originating within the hair follicle. |
| Keratinization | The maturation of these cells is a process called |
| Living cells mature through Keratinization. As they mature, they fill up with keratin, then move upward, lose their nucleus and die. | Explain why hair is not a living thing. |
| Carbon 51% Oxygen 21% Hydrogen 6% Nitrogen 17% Sulfur 5% | What are the main elements that make up human hair and their percentages in normal hair? **COHNS Elements** |
| Amino Acid | *The unit of structure that builds protein *Linked together end to end like pop beads |
| Helix | The spiral shape of a coiled protein |
| Peptide Bond | *The chemical bond that links amino acids *Also called an end bond |
| Polypeptide Chain | *A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds *Cross linked like the rungs on ladder by 3 different kinds of salt bonds |
| Hydrogen Bond, Salt Bond, Disulfide Bond | Polypeptide chains are cross-linked together using 3 different types of cross links called |
| Hydrogen Bond | *A weak physical side bond that is easily broken by water or heat *Weakest of all bonds *Creates a TEMPORARY physical change in the hair *Account for 1/3 of the hair's overall strength |
| Salt Bonds | *Weak , TEMP side bonds between adjacent polypeptide chains *Greatly affected by changes in pH *Cause the hair to sell and the cuticle to lift |
| Disulfide | *A strong chemical side bond that joins the sulfur atom of 2 neighboring cysteine amino acids to create cystine *2nd strongest bond in hair, also called a sulfur bond * Not broken by heat or water *Altered only by salon chemicals. |
| Lanthionine Bonds | *The bonds created when disulfide bonds are broken by hydroxide chemical hair relaxers after the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. *Broken PERMANENTLY and can never be reformed |
| Cortex | The layer of the hair that all natural color is located in |
| Melanin | tiny grains of pigment that give natural color to hair |
| Eumalanin Pheomelanin | What are the 2 types of melanin? |
| Eumalanin | provides brown and black color to hair |
| Pheomelanin | provides color ranging from red and ginger to yellow/blond tones |
| Wave Pattern | Refers to the shape of the hair strand and is described as straight, wavy, curly or extremely curly |
| Genetics | Natural wave pattern is the result of _______. |
| Oval | In extremely curly hair, cross sections are highly _____ and vary in shape and thickness along their length. |
| Texture Porosity Elasticity Density | What are the 4 most important factors to consider in hair analysis? |
| Texture | Thickness/diameter of the individual hair strand |
| Porosity | The ability to absorb moisture |
| Elasticity | The ability of the hair to stretch and return to it's original length without breaking |
| Density | measures the number of hair strands on 1 square inch of the scalp |
| Course Medium Fine | What are the 3 classifications of hair texture? |
| Course | *Has largest diameter *More difficult to process |
| Medium | *Most common *No special problems or concerns |
| Fine | *Smallest diameter *Most fragile *Easily processes |
| Low Medium High | Hair density can be classified as? |
| 2200 | What is the average hair density per square inch? |
| 100,000 | How many hairs does the average head contain? |
| The condition of the cuticle layer | What is the degree of porosity directly related to? |
| Porous | ______ hair has a raised cuticle that easily absorbs moisture |
| Less akaline solutions | Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require what type of solutions? |
| Normal | Hair with average porosity is considered ______. |
| Overly porous hair | What type of hair is damaged, dry, fragile and brittle? |
| How to check for porosity | Take a strand from 4 different areas (front, hairline, temple, crown and nape). Hold the strand with one hand while sliding thumb and forefinger of other hand from end to scalp |
| If it feels smooth... | and the cuticle is compact, dense and hard it is considered resistant. |
| If you can feel a slight roughness... | it is considered porous. |
| If the hair feels very rough or dry or breaks... | it is considered highly porous and may have been overly processed. |
| 50% | Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to ____ of it's original length and return without breaking. |
| 20% | How much does dry hair stretch? |
| False | Hair follicles always from perpendicular (90 degree angle) to the scalp |
| Hair stream | Hair following in the same direction |
| Whorl | Hair that forms in a circular pattern |
| Cowlick | A tuft of hair that stands straight up |
| Overactive sebaceous glands Improper shampooing | What causes oily hair and scalp? |
| Inactive sebaceous glands Excessive shampooing Dry air/climate | What cause dry hair and scalp? |
| Vellus Terminal | What are the 2 types of hair found on the body? |
| Vellus | *Short, fine and downy *Not pigmented *Almost never has a medulla *Usually found on infants and young children *In adults, it's found on most areas of body, not including scalp |
| Terminal | *Courser than vellus *It's pigmented with the exception of grey hair *Usually has a medulla |
| Scalp Legs Arms Pelvis area | Where is terminal hair found? |
| Anagen Catagen Telogen | What are the 3 phases of a hair cycle? **A.C.T.** |
| Anagen | *The growth phase of hair (when new hair is produced) *Generally last from 3-5 years but can last up to 10 years |
| 90% | What percentage of hair is in the anagen phase at any given time? |
| Catagen | *The brief transition period between the growth and resting phases *Signals the end of the growth phase *Last from 1 -2 weeks |
| Telegen | *The resting phase *Final phase and lasts until the fully grown hair is shed *Last approx. 3-6 months |
| 1/2 inch | What is the average growth of healthy hair per month? |
| 1% | What percentage is in the catagen phase at any one time? |
| 10 % | What percentage is in the telogen phase at any one tim |
| Alopecia | Abnormal hair loss |
| Androgenic/Androgenetic alopecia | *Causes miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to vellus *The result of genetics, age and hormonal changes |
| Male Pattern Baldness | *In men, Androgentic Alopecia is known as______. *It usually progresses to the familiar horseshoe shaped fringe of hair. |
| 40% | How many people does androgenic alopecia affect in the United States? |
| Alopecia Areata | *The sudden falling out of hair in round patches or baldness in spots *May occur on the scalp and elsewear on the body |
| Postpartum Alopecia | A temporary hair loss experienced at the conclusion of a pregnancy |
| Minoxidil (Men & Women) Finasteride (Men Only) | What are the only 2 products that have been proven to stimulate hair growth and are approved by the FDA? |
| Transplants | *Most common surgical procedure for hair loss *Consist of removing small sections of hair usually from the back and transplanting into the bald area |
| Wigs Toupees Hair Weaving Hair Extensions | What non-medical options can a hairstylists offer to counter hair loss? |
| Canites | Technical term for grey hair |
| Ringed Hair | A variety of canites characterized by alternating bands of grey and pigmented hair through out the length of the hair strand. |
| Hypertrichosis | *Also known as Hirsuties *A condition of abnormal hair growth *Characterized by the growth terminal hair in areas where only vellus hair grows *ex, mustache, beard on women |
| Trichoptilosis | Technical term for split ends |
| Trichoptilosis Nodosa | *Knotted hair *Characterized by brittleness and the formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft. *Hair breaks easily, and the broken fibers spread out like a brush along the hair shaft |
| Monilethrix | *Technical term for beaded hair *The hair breaks easily between the beads or nodes. |
| Fragilitas Crinium | *Technical term for brittle hair *The hairs may split at any part of it's length. |
| Congential Aquired | What are the 2 types of canities? |
| Pityriasis | Medical term for dandruff |
| Tinea | Medical term for ringworm |
| Tinea Capitis | *Ringworm of the scalp *Fungal infection characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicles |
| Scabies | Caused by a parasite called a mite that burrows under the skin |
| Pediculosis Capitis | Head lice |
| Furuncle | An acute, localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle |
| Carbuncle | An inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci |
| Malassezia | naturally occuring fungus that is present on all human skin, and is responsible for dandruff |
| Pityriasis Capitis Simplex | technical term for classic dandruff, characterized by scalp irritation, large flake and itchy scalp |
| Pityriasis Steatoides | a severe type of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales mixed with sebum |
| Tinea | *Characterized by itching, scales and sometimes painful circular lesions *Very contagious |
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