Waves
Quiz yourself by thinking what should be in
each of the black spaces below before clicking
on it to display the answer.
Help!
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| What are the main two parts of waves? | Crests and troughs.
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| What is the highest part of the wave? | Crest.
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| What is the lowest part of the wave? | Trough.
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| What is the distance between two adjacent wave crests or troughs? | Wavelength.
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| What is the vertical distance between the crest and the trough of a wave? | Wave Height.
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| What type of movements to ocean waves make? | Circular.
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| What is the time between the passage of two wave crests? | Wave Period.
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| wavelength (m) = wave speed (m/s) wave period (s) | Formula for calculating wave speed.
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| What are some examples of things that cause waves? | Wind, earthquakes, landslides, and impacts of cosmic bodies.
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| What are waves that move in water deeper than one half their wavelength? | Deep Water Waves.
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| When waves reach water shallower than one half their wavelength and then begin to interact with ocean floor, they are called? | Shallow Water Waves.
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| What are the stages of the life span of a wave? | Deep Water Waves
Shallow Water Waves.
Breakers in the break zone.
Surf on the shore.
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| Gravity eventually pulls high wave crest down, which causes waves to tumble downward forming ___________________. | Breakers
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| The area where wave first break is called the _______________________. | Break Zone.
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| What is the area between the breaker zone and the shore? | Surf
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| What is a subsurface current that is near shore and pulls objects back out to sea? | Undertow.
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| What is the water current that travels near and parallel to shoreline? | Longshore Current.
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| What are white foaming waves with very steep crests that break in the open ocean before the waves get close to shore? | White Caps.
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| What are rolling waves that move steadily across the ocean. They have longer wavelengths than white caps and can travel further? | Swells.
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| What are waves that form when a large volume of ocean water is suddenly moved up and down such as by earthquake? | Tsunamis.
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| What is a local rise in sea level near the shore that is caused by strong winds from a storm or hurricane? | Storm Surge.
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