Term | Definition |
sharps needles | long with small eye
general sewing needle |
betweens needles | short with small eye
general sewing-quilts needle |
glover's needles | flat point, sharp on edges
sews leather, vinyl needle |
curved needles | shaped like an arc
sews rigid surfaces needle |
sizing of hand needles | smaller= thicker, heavier |
costume shop structure | shop manager/supervisor/director |
draping team | draper, first hand, stitchers |
draper | plans construciton, supervises, makes patters
IN CHARGE OF DRAPING TEAM |
first hand | supervises stitchers, alterations, cutting, simple patterns, complex stitching
open job, variety of duties |
stitchers | stitch costumes |
dyer/painter | distresses costumes
dyes |
milliner | hats |
cobbler | shoes |
wigmaker | wigs |
wardrobe crew | in charge of costumes after they are constructed |
resident costume shop | makes costumes for one specific theater |
independent/contracted costume shop | contracted by contractor
produces costumes for a variety of theaters |
office/planning area | costume director keeps track of things
needs desk, computer |
cutting/draping area | where cutters and drapers work
needs cutting tables |
stitching area | needs tables for stitchers
maching/hand sewing area, pressing area |
crafts area | needs ventilation, running water, lighting, storage, electricity, big tables, separate washer and drier |
laundry/matinence area | needs washer and dryer, steamers |
fitting rooms | need to fit 4-5 people
need full length, 3-way mirror |
storage | sometimes warehouse |
snaps | male on top, female on bottom |
sizing of snaps | 0-6, 6 is largest
23- whopper popper |
hooks and eyes/bars | double thread to attatch them |
buttons | shanked- extends, leaves space
unshanked- make shank out of thread |
contemporary/modern dress costumes | clothes we wear today
1960s-now |
period/historical cosumes | prehistory, early 20th century
"silhouette"
bustle dress |
fantasy costumes | not anything worn/wear
show girl, animal |
buying costumes | most modern clothes, accessiories, some period
if time is a factor, cheaper than building |
renting costumes | if need something specific for show
if time is a facor
rent multiple things that match, general things
least expensive |
building costumes | most expensive because labor is needed
build things with the most stage time |
pull from stock | using things you already have
small budget
corsetts, shirts, pants |
what a rendering should show | shape, fit, seam lines, color, texture, trim, accessories, hair |
spec session | designer and costume director present
do sourcing, make lists, budget, materials |
fitting | 4 or 5 people present
performer, designer and assistant, draper, costume director |
drafting | 2D method
use math calculations to draft measurements |
draping | 3D method
pinned on form and draw seam lines |
body block or slopers | simple pattern of a body |
dress form | used for draping, pin fabric over |
what garments can't be drafted | bias cut, period skirts |
what garments can't be successfully draped | corsetts, tailored jackets, pants, sleeves/collars |
seam allowance | allowance on seam |
plain seam | most simple seam |
french seam | enclose all raw edges, strong
seam for sheer fabric, seam |
flat felled seam | seam flat on all sides
used for scenic things, seam |
plain dart | short seam that comes to a fold
used for pants, bodice, dresses |
contour dart | short seam taht comes to a fold
used for corsets |
easing | squishing not as much fabric |
gathering | squishing 2x fabric |
pleating | folding in a specific way |
knife pleats | fold back and forth in zig zag |
box pleats | fold and change direction, cheerleading skirt |
three systems for sewing maching | upper, lower, feed systems |
upper thread | completely visible
has tension assembly, take up lever, and needle |
lower thread | has 2 parts
bobbin and bobbin case |
feed | changes length of stitch |
sewing machine needles | 3 different points: sharp, ball, wedge
sizes: smaller number= smaller needle |
bobbin/bobbin case | flat spool of thread/put into |
take-up lever | takes up slack |
presser foot | controls machine |
warp thread | runs in straight grain, stronger thread |
weft thread | in cross grain, more body/spring thread |
straight grain | shrinks the most, verticle grain |
cross grain | most body/spring, horizontal grain |
bias | stretchy
if cut, fewer grain lines
more mold, clings grain |
selvage | tightly woven edge |
45" fabric length | garments stitched with |
54" fabric length` | home decorations stitched with |
60" fabric length | wool, menswear stitched with |
36" fabric length | lace stitched with |
4 main natural fibers | cotton, linen/flax, wool, silk |
cotton | high wet strength
high absorbability
low elasticity,
resilient, fiber |
linen/flax | waxy, natural sheen
high wet strength
no elasticity, fiber |
wool | elastic and resilient
natural insulator
low wet strength
shrinks
fiber |
silk | high aborbability
low wet strength
porous
elastic
not resilient
smooth and shiny: feed silk worms mulberry leaves
raw silk: feed worms oak leaves, fiber |
cellulosic | cotton and linen
come from plants |
protien | wool and silk
come from animals |
keratin | what wool is made of |
worsted wool | smooth wool |
woolen wool | knubbier, coarser wool |
man made fibers | non-cellulosic
rayon, acetate, nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex |
rayon | immitate silk, cellulosic, manmade |
acetate4 | cellulosic, manmade |
nylon | invented in 1939
wizard of oz, manmade |
polyester | elastic and resilient, manmade |
acrylic | immitate wool, manmade |
spandex | elastic and resilient (500%), manmade |
weaving | interlacing of thread and yarn |
plain weave | looks same on both sides, weave |
twill weaves | looks diagonal
"float"
strong, weave |
satin weave | no specific pattern
has sheen
smooth, weave |
pile weave | from piled loops
knap- 2 different colors, weave |
knitting | interlooping of threads |
stitch | each loop |
course | rows of stitches, knitting |
wale | verticle columns, knitting |
felting | bonding fibers with heat and pressure |
millinry | medium felt |
decorative felt | light weight felt |
costume director | leader of costume shop
budgets
hires staff |
crafts head | in charge of crafts team |
wardrobe supervisor | in charge of wardrobe team |
dressers | changes actors |
daycrew | during day cleans costumes |