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Costuming Midterm

sharps needles long with small eye general sewing needle
betweens needles short with small eye general sewing-quilts needle
glover's needles flat point, sharp on edges sews leather, vinyl needle
curved needles shaped like an arc sews rigid surfaces needle
sizing of hand needles smaller= thicker, heavier
costume shop structure shop manager/supervisor/director
draping team draper, first hand, stitchers
draper plans construciton, supervises, makes patters IN CHARGE OF DRAPING TEAM
first hand supervises stitchers, alterations, cutting, simple patterns, complex stitching open job, variety of duties
stitchers stitch costumes
dyer/painter distresses costumes dyes
milliner hats
cobbler shoes
wigmaker wigs
wardrobe crew in charge of costumes after they are constructed
resident costume shop makes costumes for one specific theater
independent/contracted costume shop contracted by contractor produces costumes for a variety of theaters
office/planning area costume director keeps track of things needs desk, computer
cutting/draping area where cutters and drapers work needs cutting tables
stitching area needs tables for stitchers maching/hand sewing area, pressing area
crafts area needs ventilation, running water, lighting, storage, electricity, big tables, separate washer and drier
laundry/matinence area needs washer and dryer, steamers
fitting rooms need to fit 4-5 people need full length, 3-way mirror
storage sometimes warehouse
snaps male on top, female on bottom
sizing of snaps 0-6, 6 is largest 23- whopper popper
hooks and eyes/bars double thread to attatch them
buttons shanked- extends, leaves space unshanked- make shank out of thread
contemporary/modern dress costumes clothes we wear today 1960s-now
period/historical cosumes prehistory, early 20th century "silhouette" bustle dress
fantasy costumes not anything worn/wear show girl, animal
buying costumes most modern clothes, accessiories, some period if time is a factor, cheaper than building
renting costumes if need something specific for show if time is a facor rent multiple things that match, general things least expensive
building costumes most expensive because labor is needed build things with the most stage time
pull from stock using things you already have small budget corsetts, shirts, pants
what a rendering should show shape, fit, seam lines, color, texture, trim, accessories, hair
spec session designer and costume director present do sourcing, make lists, budget, materials
fitting 4 or 5 people present performer, designer and assistant, draper, costume director
drafting 2D method use math calculations to draft measurements
draping 3D method pinned on form and draw seam lines
body block or slopers simple pattern of a body
dress form used for draping, pin fabric over
what garments can't be drafted bias cut, period skirts
what garments can't be successfully draped corsetts, tailored jackets, pants, sleeves/collars
seam allowance allowance on seam
plain seam most simple seam
french seam enclose all raw edges, strong seam for sheer fabric, seam
flat felled seam seam flat on all sides used for scenic things, seam
plain dart short seam that comes to a fold used for pants, bodice, dresses
contour dart short seam taht comes to a fold used for corsets
easing squishing not as much fabric
gathering squishing 2x fabric
pleating folding in a specific way
knife pleats fold back and forth in zig zag
box pleats fold and change direction, cheerleading skirt
three systems for sewing maching upper, lower, feed systems
upper thread completely visible has tension assembly, take up lever, and needle
lower thread has 2 parts bobbin and bobbin case
feed changes length of stitch
sewing machine needles 3 different points: sharp, ball, wedge sizes: smaller number= smaller needle
bobbin/bobbin case flat spool of thread/put into
take-up lever takes up slack
presser foot controls machine
warp thread runs in straight grain, stronger thread
weft thread in cross grain, more body/spring thread
straight grain shrinks the most, verticle grain
cross grain most body/spring, horizontal grain
bias stretchy if cut, fewer grain lines more mold, clings grain
selvage tightly woven edge
45" fabric length garments stitched with
54" fabric length` home decorations stitched with
60" fabric length wool, menswear stitched with
36" fabric length lace stitched with
4 main natural fibers cotton, linen/flax, wool, silk
cotton high wet strength high absorbability low elasticity, resilient, fiber
linen/flax waxy, natural sheen high wet strength no elasticity, fiber
wool elastic and resilient natural insulator low wet strength shrinks fiber
silk high aborbability low wet strength porous elastic not resilient smooth and shiny: feed silk worms mulberry leaves raw silk: feed worms oak leaves, fiber
cellulosic cotton and linen come from plants
protien wool and silk come from animals
keratin what wool is made of
worsted wool smooth wool
woolen wool knubbier, coarser wool
man made fibers non-cellulosic rayon, acetate, nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex
rayon immitate silk, cellulosic, manmade
acetate4 cellulosic, manmade
nylon invented in 1939 wizard of oz, manmade
polyester elastic and resilient, manmade
acrylic immitate wool, manmade
spandex elastic and resilient (500%), manmade
weaving interlacing of thread and yarn
plain weave looks same on both sides, weave
twill weaves looks diagonal "float" strong, weave
satin weave no specific pattern has sheen smooth, weave
pile weave from piled loops knap- 2 different colors, weave
knitting interlooping of threads
stitch each loop
course rows of stitches, knitting
wale verticle columns, knitting
felting bonding fibers with heat and pressure
millinry medium felt
decorative felt light weight felt
costume director leader of costume shop budgets hires staff
crafts head in charge of crafts team
wardrobe supervisor in charge of wardrobe team
dressers changes actors
daycrew during day cleans costumes
Created by: treaser12