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Costuming Midterm
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| sharps needles | long with small eye general sewing needle |
| betweens needles | short with small eye general sewing-quilts needle |
| glover's needles | flat point, sharp on edges sews leather, vinyl needle |
| curved needles | shaped like an arc sews rigid surfaces needle |
| sizing of hand needles | smaller= thicker, heavier |
| costume shop structure | shop manager/supervisor/director |
| draping team | draper, first hand, stitchers |
| draper | plans construciton, supervises, makes patters IN CHARGE OF DRAPING TEAM |
| first hand | supervises stitchers, alterations, cutting, simple patterns, complex stitching open job, variety of duties |
| stitchers | stitch costumes |
| dyer/painter | distresses costumes dyes |
| milliner | hats |
| cobbler | shoes |
| wigmaker | wigs |
| wardrobe crew | in charge of costumes after they are constructed |
| resident costume shop | makes costumes for one specific theater |
| independent/contracted costume shop | contracted by contractor produces costumes for a variety of theaters |
| office/planning area | costume director keeps track of things needs desk, computer |
| cutting/draping area | where cutters and drapers work needs cutting tables |
| stitching area | needs tables for stitchers maching/hand sewing area, pressing area |
| crafts area | needs ventilation, running water, lighting, storage, electricity, big tables, separate washer and drier |
| laundry/matinence area | needs washer and dryer, steamers |
| fitting rooms | need to fit 4-5 people need full length, 3-way mirror |
| storage | sometimes warehouse |
| snaps | male on top, female on bottom |
| sizing of snaps | 0-6, 6 is largest 23- whopper popper |
| hooks and eyes/bars | double thread to attatch them |
| buttons | shanked- extends, leaves space unshanked- make shank out of thread |
| contemporary/modern dress costumes | clothes we wear today 1960s-now |
| period/historical cosumes | prehistory, early 20th century "silhouette" bustle dress |
| fantasy costumes | not anything worn/wear show girl, animal |
| buying costumes | most modern clothes, accessiories, some period if time is a factor, cheaper than building |
| renting costumes | if need something specific for show if time is a facor rent multiple things that match, general things least expensive |
| building costumes | most expensive because labor is needed build things with the most stage time |
| pull from stock | using things you already have small budget corsetts, shirts, pants |
| what a rendering should show | shape, fit, seam lines, color, texture, trim, accessories, hair |
| spec session | designer and costume director present do sourcing, make lists, budget, materials |
| fitting | 4 or 5 people present performer, designer and assistant, draper, costume director |
| drafting | 2D method use math calculations to draft measurements |
| draping | 3D method pinned on form and draw seam lines |
| body block or slopers | simple pattern of a body |
| dress form | used for draping, pin fabric over |
| what garments can't be drafted | bias cut, period skirts |
| what garments can't be successfully draped | corsetts, tailored jackets, pants, sleeves/collars |
| seam allowance | allowance on seam |
| plain seam | most simple seam |
| french seam | enclose all raw edges, strong seam for sheer fabric, seam |
| flat felled seam | seam flat on all sides used for scenic things, seam |
| plain dart | short seam that comes to a fold used for pants, bodice, dresses |
| contour dart | short seam taht comes to a fold used for corsets |
| easing | squishing not as much fabric |
| gathering | squishing 2x fabric |
| pleating | folding in a specific way |
| knife pleats | fold back and forth in zig zag |
| box pleats | fold and change direction, cheerleading skirt |
| three systems for sewing maching | upper, lower, feed systems |
| upper thread | completely visible has tension assembly, take up lever, and needle |
| lower thread | has 2 parts bobbin and bobbin case |
| feed | changes length of stitch |
| sewing machine needles | 3 different points: sharp, ball, wedge sizes: smaller number= smaller needle |
| bobbin/bobbin case | flat spool of thread/put into |
| take-up lever | takes up slack |
| presser foot | controls machine |
| warp thread | runs in straight grain, stronger thread |
| weft thread | in cross grain, more body/spring thread |
| straight grain | shrinks the most, verticle grain |
| cross grain | most body/spring, horizontal grain |
| bias | stretchy if cut, fewer grain lines more mold, clings grain |
| selvage | tightly woven edge |
| 45" fabric length | garments stitched with |
| 54" fabric length` | home decorations stitched with |
| 60" fabric length | wool, menswear stitched with |
| 36" fabric length | lace stitched with |
| 4 main natural fibers | cotton, linen/flax, wool, silk |
| cotton | high wet strength high absorbability low elasticity, resilient, fiber |
| linen/flax | waxy, natural sheen high wet strength no elasticity, fiber |
| wool | elastic and resilient natural insulator low wet strength shrinks fiber |
| silk | high aborbability low wet strength porous elastic not resilient smooth and shiny: feed silk worms mulberry leaves raw silk: feed worms oak leaves, fiber |
| cellulosic | cotton and linen come from plants |
| protien | wool and silk come from animals |
| keratin | what wool is made of |
| worsted wool | smooth wool |
| woolen wool | knubbier, coarser wool |
| man made fibers | non-cellulosic rayon, acetate, nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex |
| rayon | immitate silk, cellulosic, manmade |
| acetate4 | cellulosic, manmade |
| nylon | invented in 1939 wizard of oz, manmade |
| polyester | elastic and resilient, manmade |
| acrylic | immitate wool, manmade |
| spandex | elastic and resilient (500%), manmade |
| weaving | interlacing of thread and yarn |
| plain weave | looks same on both sides, weave |
| twill weaves | looks diagonal "float" strong, weave |
| satin weave | no specific pattern has sheen smooth, weave |
| pile weave | from piled loops knap- 2 different colors, weave |
| knitting | interlooping of threads |
| stitch | each loop |
| course | rows of stitches, knitting |
| wale | verticle columns, knitting |
| felting | bonding fibers with heat and pressure |
| millinry | medium felt |
| decorative felt | light weight felt |
| costume director | leader of costume shop budgets hires staff |
| crafts head | in charge of crafts team |
| wardrobe supervisor | in charge of wardrobe team |
| dressers | changes actors |
| daycrew | during day cleans costumes |
Created by:
treaser12
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