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Hair Color
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Reasons why people color their hair | Cover up or blend gray, enhance existing color, create fashion statement or self-expression, correct unwanted tones caused by environmental exposure, accentuate a particular haircut |
| Cuticle | Outermost layer of the hair, protects interior cortex layer and contributes up to 20 percent of the overall strength of hair. |
| Cortex | Middle layer of the hair; Gives the hair the majority of its strength and elasticity. Melanin granules scattered between cortex cells |
| Medulla | Innermost layer of hair. Sometimes absent from the hair, does not play a role in the haircoloring process. |
| Texture | Diameter of an individual hair strand; Melanin distributed differently according to texture. Can be fine, medium, or coarse. |
| Fine Textured Hair | Melanin granules grouped more tightly; hair takes color faster and can look darker. Has smaller diameter |
| Medium Textured Hair | Has an average reaction to hair color. Medium diameter. |
| Coarse Textured Hair | Has larger diameter and loosely grouped melanin granules, it can take longer to process. |
| Hair Density | The number of hairs per square inch, ranges from thin to thick. |
| Porosity | The hair's ability to absorb moisture. Degrees: Low porosity, Average porosity, High porosity. |
| Low porosity | The cuticle is tight. The hair is resistant, meaning it is difficult for moisture and chemicals to penetrate it. Requires longer processing time. |
| Average porosity | Cuticle is slightly raised. Hair processes in average amount of time. |
| High porosity | The cuticle is lifted. Takes color quickly; fades color quickly. Porous hair rejects warmth, processes more quickly resulting in deeper color. |
| Eumelanin | Melanin that lends black and brown colors to hair. |
| Pheomelanin | Melanin that gives blond and red colors to hair. |
| Mixed melanin | Combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin. |
| Contributing pigment | Also known as undertone, is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process; The darker the natural level, the more intense the contributing pigment. |
| Level | The unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. Level is the saturation, density, or concentration of color. |
| The Level System | A system that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness or a hair color. Hair colors arranged on a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being the darkest and 10 being the lightest, |
| Base Color | The predominant tone of a color. |
| The Law of Color | A system for understanding color relationships; When combining colors, you will always get the same result from the same combination. |
| Primary Colors | Pure of fundamental colors; Red, Yellow, Blue. Cannot be created by combining other colors; All colors are created from the three primaries |
| Blue | Strongest of the primary colors; Only cool primary color; brings depth or darkness |
| Red | Medium primary color; Add to blue and it appears lighter; Add to yellow and it appears darker |
| Yellow | Weakest primary color; When adding yellow it creates brightness |
| Secondary Colors | Colors obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. The secondary colors are green, orange, and violet. |
| Tertiary Colors | Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. |
| Complimentary Colors | Primary and secondary colors positioned directly opposite of each other on the color wheel. Examples are; blue and orange: red and green, yellow and violet |
| Tone | Also known as hue, the balance of color. Tones can be described as warm, cool, or neutral. |
| Warm Tones | Reflect more light. making them look lighter than their actual level. These tones are golden, orange, red, and yellow. |
| Cool Tones | Absorb more light, making them look deeper than their actual level. These tones are blue, green, and violet. Smoky or Ashy |
| Intensity | The strength of a color. Can be soft, medium, or strong. Color intensifiers are tones that can be added to a hair color formula to intensify the result. |
| Base Color | The predominant tone of a color. |
| Temporary Hair Color | Non-oxidation colors that makes only a physical change, not a chemical change; No patch test; Easily shampoos from the hair. Neutralizes yellow hair. Do not penetrate the cuticle layer; Only coating of color is deposited |
| Examples of Temporary Hair Color | Color rinses applied weekly; Colored mousses and gel; Hair mascara, Spray on hair color; color enhancing shampoos |
| Semi permanent hair color | No-lift, deposit only, non-oxidation. Not mixed with peroxide. Lasts four to six weeks. Partially penetrates hair shaft; Stains cuticle. Only deposits color; gentler than permanent color; Traditionally colors are used right out of the bottle |
| Demi permanent hair color | Formulated to deposit but not lighten color. Usually less alkaline than permanent color; Mixed with low-volume developer; Requires patch test |
| Reasons to use Demi Permanent Color | Introducing client to a color service; Blending or covering gray; Refreshing faded permanent color on the mid-shaft and ends; Making color corrections and restoring natural color. |
| Forms of Demi permanent color | Gel, cream, or liquid |
| Permanent haircolors | Lighten and deposit color at the same time; More alkaline than demi permanent; Mixed with higher-volume developer; Requires patch test; Best for gray hair |
| Haircolor glaze | Haircolor service that adds shine and color to the hair. |
| Soap Cap | Technique that combines equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo, used during the last five minutes of a haircolor service; Worked through the hair to refresh the ends |
| Natural Hair colors | Vegetable haircolors; Colors obtained from the leaves or bark of plants; Does not lighten natural hair color; Color results tend to be weak; Stains cuticle of hair shaft; Chemical products cannot be applied over natural hair colors. |
| Metallic hair colors | progressive haircolors; Contains metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull metallic appearance; Requires frequent application; Unnatural looking shades |
| Hydrogen peroxide developer | Oxidizing agent that when mixed what an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color. |
| Developers | Also known as oxidizing agents or catalysts; Have pH between 2.5 and 4.5; In clear liquids or cream form |
| Volume | Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide; The lower the volume, the less lift achieved; The higher the volume the greater the lift |
| 10 Volume Developer | Used to deposit color; Offers less lift; |
| 20 Volume Developer | Gives up to two levels of lift; Used in permanent hair color; Used for complete gray coverage |
| Activators | Persulfate salts added to hair color to increase its lightening ability. |
| Aniline derivatives | Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex |
| Baylage or Bailiage | Also known as free-form technique, painting a lightener (off-the-scalp) directly onto clean, styled hair |
| Cap Technique | Lightening technique pulling dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a metal or plastic crotchet hook and combing after. |
| Color fillers | Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application providing a uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair. |
| Contributing Pigment | (Undertones) varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process. |
| Foil Techniques | Coloring selected strands of hair that are sliced or woven from sections of hair, placed on foil or plastic using lightener, or permanent hair color and sealing them in the foil or plastic. |
| Glaze | Non-ammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair. |
| Hair Lightening | (Bleaching or Decolorization) Chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial haircolor from the hair. |
| Highlighting | Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety or lighter shades and the illusion of depth. |
| Highlighting shampoo | Colors prepared by combining permanent haircolor, peroxide and shampoo. Patch test required. |
| Line of Demarcation | Visible line separating colored hair from new growth. |
| New growth | The section of hair between the scalp and previously colored hair; Always lighten this first |
| Off-the-scalp lighteners (quick lighteners) | powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp |
| On-the-scalp lighteners | Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with the activators |
| Patch Test (predisposition test) | Required by Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act for dentifying a possible allergy in a client |
| Pre-lightening | first step in a double process haircoloring to lift the hair to desired contributing pigment before applying toner |
| Pre-softening | Process for treating gray or highly resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color. |
| Resistant | Hair type that is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate and thus requires a longer processing time. |
| Reverse highlighting or low lightening | Technique of coloring strands or hair darker than the natural color. |
| Single-process hair color | Haircolor that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application. |
| Slicing | Taking a narrow section of hair 1/8" thick (straight parting) positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener oor color and sealing within the foil. |
| Special effects haircoloring | Any technique involving highlighting or coloring. |
| Strand Test | Determines how the hair will react to the color formula, and how long the hair should process |
| Toners | Semi-permanent, demipermanent, and permanent hairolor used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors. |
| Virgin Application | First time the hair is colored. |
| Volume | Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide. |
| Weaving | A technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to those strands. |
| Forms of on-the-scalp lighteners. | Cream, oil, and some powder lighteners used on scalp because they are easy to apply |
| Creme lighteners benefits | Thickeners give more control during application conditioning agents give some protection to hair and scalp cream lighteners do not run or drip, overlapping is prevented |
| Time factors | The darker the hair color; Tone; Strength of the lightening product; Heat |
| Consequences of Overlapping | Severe breakage and or lines of demarcation. |
| Slicing | Involves taking a narrow, 1/8 inch section of the hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color. |
| Weaving | Selected strands are picked from a narrow section of hair with a zig zag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to these strands. |
| Cause of gray hair | Caused by the reduction of pigment in the cortical layer. (Loss of melanin) |
| Causes of yellowing in gray hair | Smoking, medication, sun exposure, or hair sprays and styling aids. |
| Method of coloring salt and pepper | Formulate 1-2 levels lighter than the natural level, may have to formulate 2 mixtures if hair is uneven. |
| When do you use desired level of permanent color on grays? | On 90-100% gray hair. |
| When do you use two parts desired level and one part lighter level in a formula? | 70-90% gray hair |
| When do you use equal parts desired level and lighter level in a formula? | 50-70% gray hair |
| When do you use two parts lighter level and one part desired level in a formula? | 30-50% gray hair |
| When do you use one level lighter in a formula? | 10-30% gray hair |
| Fillers | Used to equalize porosity. Two types: conditioner fillers and color fillers. |
| Color fillers | Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair. Used on overly porous. pre-lightened hair. |
| Goals of color fillers | Deposit color to faded ends and hair shaft, helps prepare hair to hold final color, prevent streaking, prevent off color results, produce natural looking color, and produce uniform color when coloring pre-lightened hair. |
| Conditioner fillers | Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so the hair accepts color evenly. |
| What volume developer is used for grays? | 20 volume |
| What formulation offers the best gray coverage | Level 7 medium-blonde |
| What tone is used in gray coverage formulations | Neutral or natural |
Created by:
cweeks01
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