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Canyoning
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Why static rope? | force on anchor, movement can cut rope, less likely to get compromised by water or sand |
| Minimum strength of rope? | 4000 lb/20 kn |
| Typical rope size? | 8 to 9.5 mm |
| Rule of thumb for how much rope to bring in a canyon? | 3x the length of longest rappel in at least 2 ropes |
| Bends | need ends |
| Bights | form a loop |
| Waterknot aka | ring bend |
| Overhand knot is commonly used | to secure end in webbing for rapide to go into |
| A prusik is a type of | friction hitch |
| which knot is commonly used to secure a loop in the end of a rope to create an attachment point? | figure 8 on a bight |
| 1 whistle blast | stop/attention |
| 2 whistle blasts | off rope |
| 3 whistle blasts | lower rope |
| 4 whistle blasts | take up rope |
| 5+whistle blasts | emergency |
| draw angel halo in front of you (circle motion ) means | up rope |
| circle hand in front of you, near your thigh means | lower rope |
| forearms forming an x above your head means | stop |
| big arm circle in front of you means | release rope - rope is too short or person is stick |
| On rappel, start and end with | safety tether |
| What is rappelling called in Europe? | Abseiling |
| A self belay is also known as | third hand (ie. VT prussik) |
| What should you do at least 70 steps away from water sources? | poop, pee, wash dishes, shower |
| 4 components of canyon rating system in order | technical difficulty, water volume, risks/hazards, time |
| technical difficulty is indicated by: | 1 through 4 |
| water volume is indicated by: | a through c |
| risk is indicated by: | an r or x |
| time is indicated by : | i through iv |
| Level 1 is | non technical |
| Level 2 is | non technical with some difficult scrambles (maybe handlines) |
| Level 3 is | standard technical (rope and rappel devices) |
| Level 4 is | difficult technical (everything plus pot shots, sand traps, maybe overnight) |
| A is | no water |
| B is | moderate water, possible wading or swimming |
| C is | flowing water |
| an R is used for | specific hazards |
| specific hazards that an r might indicate | high stemming, no anchors, advanced sand traps, exposed upclimbing, 300 ft free hang, keeper pot holes |
| Time I is | a few hours, less than half a day |
| Time II is | 4 to 6 hours, definitely fill half a day |
| Time III is | 6 to 10 hours, full day |
| Time IV is | long full day, bring headlamps |
| CHECK stands for | Clothing, Harness/Helmet, Equipment, Connections, knots |
| C in Check is for | making sure clothing is out of the way |
| H in CHECK is for | Making sure harness is double backed and tight enough, helmet is buckled and tight enough |
| E in CHECK is for | making sure equipment (rappel device) is on the proper belay loop, and they are on the correct side of the block |
| C in CHECK is for | making sure connections are secure - carabiners are locked, straps are clicked |
| K in CHECK is for | makingsure knots are tied correctly |
| how to stop a downclimber with a hip belay | both hands should be on the rope aleady, cross your hands to create more friction |
| figure eight bend needs | 8 inches of tail |
| ring bend needs | 4 inches of tail |
| which two bends can you use to connect two ropes of similary diameter | figure 8 bend, double fisherman's bend |
| what does a hitch do | attaches a rope to another object without creating a permanent knot |
| friction hitch also known as | slide and grip knots |
| hitches require | a host to hold their shape |
| advantage of clove hitch | easy to untie, quick, static |
| disadvantages of clove hitch | can creep/slip under load, only secure when both strands have tension |
| munter hitch aka | italian hitch, crossing hitch |
| advanage of munter hitch | dynamic, reversible, minimal equipment required |
| disadvantages of munter hitch | can cause twists in rope, can cause more damage to rope if used frequently |
| advantage of three wrap friction hitch | symmetrical - goes both directions, easy to tie, untie, and inspect, secure |
| common uses of three wrap | ascending, descending, traversing, mechanical advantage systems, hauling |
| advantages of klemhiest | can use webbing, easier to slide up than 3 wrap prussik, easy to tie and inspect, can use on double strand ropes |
| disadvantages of klemhiest | assymetrical - only loads one way, can only move when loaded, if you grab the wraps it can slip, can generate lots of heat/friction, not self-locking |
| common uses of klemhiest | attaching to traverse line, third hand/hands free backup |
| advantage of auto-block | secure when weighted, moves easily when pushed |
| disadvantage of auto-block | takes time to untie, can be cumbersome to manage while rappelling |
| common uses of auto-block | third hand |
| clove hitch block has | ropes coming out in opposite directions |
| commons uses to mule hitch | locks off rappel device, part of mmo |
| common uses of alpine butterfly | isolate a core shot, attachment point for marginal anchors (sand trap), |
| advantages of auto block | quick, portable, can ascend and descend |
| disadvantages of auto-block | can get hot, not self-locking |
| an auto-block requires | at least three wraps |
| Which three hitches can be used as a third hand | klemheist, vt prusik, 3 wrap prusik |
| D.E.A.R. stands for | dry, efficient, accessible, retrievable |
| dry in DEAR is to | set anchors where water will degrade webbing and anchor materials overtime, compromising their strength |
| efficient in DEAR is to | anchor is placed as close to drop as possible, and safe for each member to get on rappel |
| accessible in DEAR is to | anchor can be reached by all team members, especially last (ie don't set them on a sketchy ledge where last person can fall just to get on rappel) |
| retrievable in DEAR is to | anchor is set where rope can be retrieved (ie not where rope can get stuck in narrow slow or tree) |
| E.A.R.N.E.S.T stands for | equalized, angle, redundant, no extension, strong, timely |
| which acronym is used for multi-point anchors? | E.A.R.N.E.S.T. |
| equalized in EARNEST is to | each point on anchor should bear equal force. achieve this by taking out slack in both sides and rigging in the direction of the rappel |
| angle in EARNEST is to | ensure a 30 degree or less angle between anchor points, 90 degrees is dangerous |
| redundant in EARNEST is to | tie the rigging so that if one anchor point fails, the other will still hold |
| no extension in EARNEST is to | ensure that if one anchor point fails, the other anchor point will not be shock loaded. (generally if it is equalized, it will also not have an extension problem) |
| strong in EARNEST is to | use sturdy anchor points (secured bolts, live trees of large diameter, big rocks) |
| timely in EARNEST is to | create anchors that require the least time to construct, while still being safe and EARNEST |
| components of a simple wrap | single master point, 1 big loop tied with water knot |
| which natural anchors constructions are strong but not redundant | simple wrap, wrap 2 pull 1 |
| components of wrap 2 pull 1 | one master point, 2 loops (1 cinching, 1 extended) |
| components of wrap 3 pull 2 | one master point, 3 loops (1 cinching, 2 extended) |
| a wrap 3 pull 2 is not BLANK unless BLANK | redundant, overhand knot added to both strands |
| components of a basket anchor | 2 loops around master point tied together with a water knot, overhand added for redundancy/rapide, no cinches |
| what are the strongest redundant webbing anchor systems | basket anchor, wrap 3 pull 2 (with overhand) |
| which webbing is safe | tubular climbing grade and tubular military grade |
| how to identify climbing grade webbing | has three stitch lines running lengthwise |
| how to identify miliary grade webbing | has corduroy pattern running widthwise |
| strength of webbing? | 4000 lbs/20 kn |
| which webbing color is most common/universal? | black |
| how to inspect webbing | dangerous if: fading color, crunchy, cuts/frays, is constantly in direct flow of water |
| what is a MUST with webbing?? | examine every inch!! even if you have to pull it out or move it or unearth a boulder |
| advantage of simple wrap | quick, easy, auto-equalized |
| disadvantages of simple wrap | not redundant, it will not cinch (it will fall to ground when not under tension) |
| be careful to do this with a simple wrap | do not add an overhand knot, it decreases strength, and takes away equalization |
| advantages of how simple wrap self equalizes | webbing lasts longer since abrasion aren't in same place with every rappeller, easy to adjust as rappeller descends |
| advantages of girth hitch anchor | quick, cinches, customizable extension |
| disadvantages of girth hitch anchor | not redundant, uses lots of webbing |
| components of a girth hitch | overhand on a bight one one end, thread other end through, position knot so it's not taking any weight, tie another overhand on a bight on extended end, attach rapide |
| advantages of wrap 2 pull 1 | quick, self equalizes, cinches (it stays where you set, won't fall down) |
| disadvantages of wrap 2 pull 1 | not redundant, uses more webbing than simple wrap |
| when tying wrap 2 pull 1, or wrap 3 pull 2, remember to | put water knot in middle and front of cinch/anchor, where least amount of stress will be put on it |
| advantages of wrap 3 pull 2 | self equalized if no overhand knot, can be redundant if overhand added |
| disadvantages of wrap 3 pull 2 | lots of webbing used |
| components of bolted multipoint anchor | one big loop of webbing with water knot, tie overhand on a bight in direction of rappel line, make sure angle of webbing is less than 45 degrees |
| components of in-line bolted anchor | no webbing, rope is threaded directly through 2 bolts, block is against back one, redundant |
| in-line bolted anchors are often used | in aquatic canyons, no webbing since it gets destroyed quickly |
| components of american death triangle | two anchor points, third point is formed by rapide |
| why is a.d.t. dangerous | not redundant, lots of force on anchors |
| static blocks | knot block, carabiner |
| releasable blocks | figure 8, mmo |
| When you may choose for a toss'n'go | worried about rope pull |
| rigging toss'n'go steps | thread rope through rapide, make sure both ends touch the ground, rappel on both strands |
| disadvantages of toss'n'go | dangerous if you can't see bottom, not releasable |
| rigging knot block steps | tie figure 8 bend, place knot against rapide, make sure knot is bigger than rapide so it won't slip through, if rappelling on both strands make sure they both touch ground, if rapelling on one strand, make sure it's on the corret side of the block |
| steps for checking anchor | safety tether, check that anchor is secure, check webbing, |
| steps for deploying rope | (safety tether should already be on) secure rope bag, put rope through rapide, count length for distance, hold rope where you will place block, yell rope, toss, verify that it touches ground, set up block |
| munter mule steps | make a bight on beaner, use rappel strand to make loop for munter, use bag side to create mule over both strands, overhand goes over rappel strand |
| when on a guideline, you are on | both rappel line and guideline |
| guided rappels (using guidelines) are commonly used for which three scenarios | avoiding hazards (ie circulating currents, pothole) , improve efficiency, gain access |
| what is a traverse line | rope/cable strung between 2 anchor points horizontally across a gap or dangerous section |
| what is a guided rappel | combo of fixed line and rappel line. fixed line is like a zipline |
| how to get on a guided rappel | safety tether to anchor, girth hitch sling to harness, then attach sling to guideline with a biner, attach rappel device into rappel line |
| how long should your sling be when on a guided rappel | about 2 feet |
| how to get on a traverse line | tie a friction hitch to line and test it, attach to belay loop, ensure person ahead of you has reached a secure position, proceed |
| steps for self rescue | lock off device, tie friction hitch, attach foot loop to hitch, step into sling to unweight device, clip harness into friction hitch, fix device and re-lock off, step up, undo carabiner connection to friction hitch, slowly sit back into rappel device |
| frost knot | overhand with three strands |
| sheet bend | used for joining two rope of differing diameters - NOT FOR RAPPELLING ON THOUGH |
| frost knot common uses | courtesy rigging, attachment point for etrier or purcel prussik, joining two pieces of webbing |
| how to tie a frost knot | take end of webbing, make a 12 inch bight, take other end of webbing and line it up, make an overhand with all three pieces |
| how to check a frost knot | one end has three pieces of webbing coming out of it, other end had a bight and a tail coming out of it |
| sheet bend common uses | extending a pull cord, joining webbing slings of different sizes, securing load bag to harness for short haul, attaching a self rescue descender for a controlled descent (quick release) |
| how to tie a sheet bend | make a bight with thicker rope, thinner rope goes inside, around, and under it's own loop |
| how to check a sheet bend | thinner rope is wrapped securely, both tails are coming out of opposite ends |
| advantages of directional figure 8 | high friction and control, adjustable, self tending, redundant backup |
| disadvantages of directional figure 8 | complex to tie, heat buildup, not self locking, limited case uses |
| common uses of directional figure 8 | controlled lowering of heavy loads (ie rescue scenarios), slow rapelling (very technical or inexperienced partners, redundant rappel backup, micro adjustments in a hauling system |
| disadvantages of vt | loses efficiency when used to progress capture because it stretches out, i can bind under very heavy loads |
| disadvantages of courtesy rigging | not redundant, lots of webbing, lpar has a hard start |
| steps for courtesy rigging | wrap webbing around anchor, tie a frost knot, decide where rapide should be for easy rope retrieval and tie another frost knot, attach rapide and connect bends with biner, rig block off of rapide, lpar removes carribeaner and rappels further toward edge |
| steps for dynamic courtesy | rapeller locks off as close to block as possible, rig munter above block, attach to anchor, attach hands free backup vt to yourself, release belayer until anchor kicks in |
| when releasing any block | always have a hands free backup (can be a vt on harness) |
| when releasing figure 8 block | remove safety biner, but put back on horn to ensure friction stays on horn ( no need to lock) |
| why do we like releasable blocks? | in emergency, it's safer and faster to lower than to pick them off or haul them up, easy to deploy more rope it it doesn't touch bottom, |
| steps to tie EMO | on bag side, give halter top to snowman, put a bight through the belly, and then a bight through that to create a mule, take that bight and biner it into bolt |
| advtange of EMO | useful in aquatic canyons because it releases quickly |
| steps for retrievable traverse line ( part 1) | figure 8 on a bight, wrap around anchor and attach to your harness, rig friction hitch to other side of rope and attach to belay loop, deploy rope while manning hitch, safety tether into anchor, detach figure eight from you, put on anchor, attach bag side |
| steps for retrievable travers line (part 2) | attach bag side of rope to anchor (put through rapide) adjust slack in line so there's a bit of tension, secure with a clove hitch next to rapide, give it a yank to test |
| when starting a guided rappel, evaluate | whether anchors can handle, potential hazards/obstacles in line of guideline, where anchor should be for proper angle |
| steps for guideline | deploy rope to reach guide line anchor, rig block (releasable, then convert to static), fpar rigs vt prusik and brings bag side of rope down, construct guide anchor at bottom, tension the line, secure tension with lock off and safety, retension after 1st |
| in a guide line, the rappel is BLANK and the pull side is the BLANK | guideline, rappel line |
| how to tension the guideline | clip biner intor rapide, take rope bight, half twist, through stitch plate, biner through twist and anchor, rig a rope grab to tail for 3 to 1 adv, pull tight, lock off with mule through belly and overhand on guideline bight should point away from anchor |
| how to retrieve guideline | de-rig tension, pull non-block side as normal, check rope while coiling |
| if you used a prusik as an ascender, it should be BLANK than the rope | 2 mm smaller |
| when ascending, your bottom hitch goes | onto harness, close to you |
| when ascending, your top hitch goes | above you, with footloop attached |
| when ascending, you can use BLANK interchangeably | friction hitches and progress capture devices. you could ascend with two vt's, or two micro-traxtions |
| steps: ascending to pass knot | get both hitches close to knot, reattach top hitch above knot, reattach foot loop, stand up and short clip to top hitch, detach bottom hitch and re-rig bottom hitch above knot, short clip into bottom hitch, remove short clip from top hitch |
| when ascending to pass the knot and transitioning to top hitch above knot | be SURE your harness is clipped into top hitch before removing bottom hitch |
| when descending to pass the knot you want | two points of contact |
| steps to descend and pass the knot | rappel to 5 feet above knot, lock off device, rig hitch with foot loop above, step and short clip, unlock device, re-rig device below knot, lock off, rappell on friction hitch until rappel device is weighted, undo short clip, undo hitch, unlock , continue |
| changeover or transition - ascending to rapelling | rig rappel device onto rappel line below you, lock off, fix whatever you came to fix, step up in foot loop to remove weight from bottom hitch, sit down to weight locked off device, remove top hitch if needed (if vt you could leave on) , continue down |
| shift is | shifting load off one rope onto a top rope belay so a person can solve their problem mid-rappel |
| first step in shift | communicate with rappeller! |
| steps for shift (part 1) | rapeller locks off, figure 8 on a bight, lower bight with biner to rapeller, have them attach to belay loop and lock biner, create mmo on rescue line and attach to anchor, release rappel rope so rescue rope is now weighted, re-rig rappel rope, part 2 |
| steps for shift (part 2) | have rappeller fix their problem and re-rig and re-lock rappell device, release rescue line until rappel line is weighted, remove rescue rope and bring it up, bag the rope |
| pro tip for shift (if rappel line is free of obstacles) | when sending figure 8 on a bight down to victim, attach biner to rappel line |
| steps for lift (part 1) | get new rope for rescue rope - figure 8 on a bight, biner to anchor, send bight and biner to patient, biner goes on patient's belay loop, pull them up, if patient de-rigs rappel device be sure to secure rescue line with vt, patient locks off, lower |
| steps for lift (part 2) | release rescue rope so they are back onto rappell rope, remove biner from their belay loop, you retract rescue rope and bring it back to top |
| steps for contact rescue (part 1) | communicate with rappeller, have them lock off if possible, rescue rope: figure 8 on bight, biner to anchor, hook rope bag to opposite hip, descend with a vt to a few feet above rapeller, lock off your device, hook your safety tether to patient belay loop |
| order of risk - rescue options | 2: lift, shift, release/lower, 3: contact rescue, 4: pick off, 5: haul up |
| steps for contact rescue (part 2) | attach friction hitch and foot loop above rappeler on their line, have patient stand and short clip and sit to unweight rappel device, solve device and re-lock, release friction hitch until device is weighted, undo friction hitch |
| steps for contact rescue (part 3) | detach your safety tether from patient, patient descends, watch them for safety, you descend and assess patient |
| Occasions where a tandem rappel is called for | patient cannot rappel - ie injured or scared |
| steps for tandem rappell (part 1) | safety tether you and patient to anchor, extend your rappell device 18 inches, rig extra friction on rappell device (two people's weight), install vt below device (attach to rated leg loop), short sling goes on pateint's belay loop, |
| steps for tandem rappell (part 2) | both attach to rappell device, buddy check you and patient, detach safety's, rappel with their thigh on top of yours, |
Created by:
torchster
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