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Ch. 20 Chem Services
Review Chapter 20 - Chemical Texture Services
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| These bonds are chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains. | Peptide |
| ___ hair is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from perm services. | Fine |
| Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by ___ bonds. | Peptide |
| Keratin proteins are made of long chains of ___ linked together end-to-end like beads. | Amino acids |
| This bond forms when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. | Disulfide |
| The action of alkaline permanent waving lotion is to soften and ___ the hair. | Expand |
| The ___ breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction. | Waving solution |
| ___ hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration of a stronger, more highly alkaline waving solution. | Coarse |
| If the client's hair is ___, with a damaged cuticle layer, it is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline wave. | Porous |
| When choosing a perm suitable for your client, the alkalinity of the perm should correspond to the resistance, strength, and ___ of the cuticle layer. | Porosity |
| What is the main active ingredient or reducing agent in an alkaline perm? | Ammonium thioglycolate |
| What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balance waving lotions? | Glycerol Monothioglycolate |
| These curls/waves process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves do. | Acid-balanced waves |
| This perm is activated by heat created chemically within the product. | Exothermic |
| This perm can be activated by an outside source, such as a hooded dryer. | Endothermic |
| This type of hair usually requires more processing than medium to fine hair, and may also be more resistant to processing. | Coarse |
| The ___ of the solution determines the processing time and could be different than what the instructions say. | Strength |
| Within the first ___ minutes after applying the waving lotion, most of the processing takes place. | 5-10 |
| A properly processed perm should break and rebuild approximately ___ % of the hair's disulfide bonds. | 50 |
| Be careful! If too many ___ bonds are broken in the perming process, the hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl. | Disulfide |
| If the hair is under processed, further processing will make it ___. | Curlier |
| Neutralization rebuilds these bonds that were broken by the waving solution. | Disulfide |
| It is very important to ___ hair properly because the hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with waving lotion and cause the hair color to lighten. | Rinse |
| Always rinse the perm solution from the hair for at least ___ minutes. | 5 |
| Pre- ___ conditioner may be recommended by some manufacturers after blotting and before application of neutralizer. | Neutralizing |
| What type of liquid protein condition can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for 5 minutes or more prior to neutralization if hair is damaged? | Acidic |
| Thio neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing ___ that was added by the waving solution. | Hydrogen |
| Giving your client a ___ test curl will be effective in determining the processing time, expected results, rod & wrap choice, how color will be affected, and if the hair will break, dry, or frizz. | Preliminary |
| Rods with a smaller diameter in the center than at the ends. | Concave |
| Rods equal in diameter along their entire length and produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. | Straight |
| Why do we use end wraps/papers to wrap a perm? | Control the ends |
| A perm wrap in which one end of the paper is placed under, and another is placed over the strand of hair. | Double-flat wrap |
| This wrap uses only one paper and is placed over the top of the strand of hair. | Single-flat wrap |
| Wrap folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. | Bookend wrap |
| All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels that are further divided into subsections called ___. | Base sections |
| "Base Placement" refers to the position of the rod in relation to its ___ section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. | Base |
| Name this placement: The hair is wrapped at 45 degrees beyond its base section (perpendicular) and the rod is positioned on its base. | On-base |
| Name this placement: The hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base. | Half off-base |
| Name this placement: The hair is wrapped 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base section. | Off-base |
| This wrap is at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like stripes on a candy cane. | Spiral wrap |
| This wrap is suitable for very long hair. | Double-rod wrap/piggyback wrap |
| The basic perm wrap is also called | Straight-set wrap |
| The hair is parted and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head | Curvature wrap |
| Used to prevent noticeable splits and blend the flow of the hair | Bricklay perm |
| Technique using zigzag parting to divide base areas. | Weave |
| This perm is only done in one section of the head instead of the whole head. | Partial perm |
| When giving your client a partial perm, use a ___ rod on the last row because it will make the transition from curls to no curls look smoother. | Larger |
| Many male clients are looking for added ___, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide. | Texture |
| Make sure your client has no metallic salts from color in their hair, because it can cause sever discoloration, ___ curls, and breakage. A GOOD CONSULATION IS A MUST!! | Uneven |
| When giving your client a preliminary test curl before you give the perm, wrap one rod in each different area of the head, including the top, side, and the ___. | Nape |
Created by:
Kristalane914
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