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Skin care treatments
Milady skin care treatments
Term | Definition |
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Dry skin | Is usually the result of under active sebaceous glands that produce sebum. |
Dry skin | Appears course, tight , dull, in color and often with visible lines and wrinkles. |
Dry skin | May also be caused by over- exposure to sun and wind, harsh soaps, poor diet, lack of fluid intake, medication, environmental factors, aging, and genetic disposition. |
Dry skin Treatment goals | Hydrate the skin with rich masks and creamy cleansers as well as a gentle form of exfoliation to remove the dead, dry skin cells and prevent them from accumulat- ing on the surface. Massage can be very Effectively |
Treatments for dry skin | • Use serums and creams to balance and protect. • Use a gentle enzyme peel, a gentle AHA peel, or a light microdermabrasion to exfoliate. • For a mask, peptides, hyaluronic acid or emollient, and natural ingredients or a thermal mask can be used. • Us |
Cause of Dehydrated Skin | Major cause is evaporation and loss of sebum from surface of the skin due to use of harsh soaps and alkalis as well as through drier winter months, heat, and changes in the |
Treatments Goals for Dehydrated Skin | • Restore internal skin hydration and retain inner moisture by preventing TEWL. • Concentrate on hydrating and nourishing treatments that deliver highest amounts of moisture. • Massage with the use of serums |
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) | Process that causes dehydration of the epi- dermis; natural tendency of moisture in cells to move from the lower layers to upper layers of the skin via osmosis. When the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is healthy, it inhibits evaporation, but if it is |
Treatments for Dehy drated Skin | Maintain the natural moisturizing factor and the natural acid mantle. • If the client’s skin seems to be dehydrated from factors that require medical attention (such as diet, lack of fluids, or medication), recommend that the client seek the advice of th |
Biological Changes in Aging Skin | • Moisture loss creates fine lines and wrinkles. • Reduction of estrogen, collagen, and Elastin • Epidermis thins, and dermal papilla flattens, resulting in a loose, tissue-like texture. • Cell renewal rate slows down, slows healing. • Impaired circul |
Pollution | Particulate matter activates multiple pathways of inflammation in the skin which can: • Ignite melanocytes, resulting in hyperpigmentation. • Excite enzymes that reabsorb damaged collagen. Chronic inflammation causes enzymes to remove more collagen than |
Poor Diet | Examples of how bad food choices affect the skin |
Dairy products | may contain a hormone that causes inflammation; may increase the amount of oil that sebaceous glands secrete, resulting in acne and clogged pores; and make it harder for dead skin cells to clear out, allowing oils to collect and become infl |
Sugar | increases blood sugar levels, which spurs insulin and IGF-1 production, caus- ing inflammation. High amounts of sugar also react with skin cells, causing dryness, decreased color, and wrinkles |
Caffeine | causes dehydration. |
Estheticians | are not nutritionists and should not encourage clients to remove foods from their diet without the consent of the client’s physician |
Hormones | As we age the body produces lower levels of hormones, and the ability of hormones to com- municate messages decreases |
Effects of Imbalanced Hormones | Effects of skin aging include excess blood glucose, which can damage or destroy collagen, and excessive free radicals, which can cause damage to cells and hyperpigmentation resulting from changes in estrogen and progesterone. • In men, testosterone decre |
Stress | The secretion of stress hormones (adrenaline, cortisol, and norepinephrine) into the blood- stream brings about specific physiological changes. This hyperstimulus effect can impair normal cellular renewal cycles of skin as well. Effects include inflammati |
UV Exposure | Repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) sun can cause premature aging of the skin, and arti- ficial UV sources can affect clients in stages throughout their life. |
Group 1 UV Exposure | Classified as mild; wrinkles do not form yet; mild pigment changes and minimal wrinkles. |
Group 2 UV Exposure | Classified as moderate; may present with age spots and early signs of parallel smile lines. |
Group 3 UV Exposure | Classified as advanced; obvious signs of discol- oration, visible capillaries, and visible keratosis. |
Group 4 UV Exposure | Classified as severe; may see yellow-gray skin color and wrinkles throughout. |
Mature Skin | skin can be improved, but the natural aging process cannot be reversed, nor will the skin be restored to the same vital condition of youth. |
Treatments goals for Aging and Mature Skin | • Hydrate and revitalize the skin. • Establish regularly scheduled skin evalua- tions that include skin analysis and review with the client to make the appropriate product and treatment adjustments. • An ongoing program of anti-aging treat- ments done i |
Elasticity of the of Agin and Mature skin | • Use firming ingredients and treatments because aging skin lacks elasticity. • To test elasticity, take a small section of the facial skin or neck between the thumb and forefinger and give the skin a slight outward pull. If the elasticity is good, the s |
Ingredients for mature skin | • Antioxidants help protect the body from free radicals, both topically and orally. • Protect the barrier function of the skin and wear sunscreen. • AHAs help combat signs of aging and sun damage • Hydrating ingredients bind water to the skin and reta |
Mature skin treatments | • Hydrating ingredients bind water to the skin and retain the moisture. • Peptides, lipids, polyglucans, coenzyme Q10, and liposomes are all beneficial per- formance ingredients. • Use procedures similar to those designed for dry skin, adapting the ingr |
Sensitive and Sensi- tized Skin | Can be a biologic condition that reacts to factors resulting in skin that appears blotchy, broken out, or excessively dry. Skin can easily become red and warm to the touch. Can result from overaggressive exfoliation or from exposure to aggressive environ |
Rosacea | Medical condition that estheticians cannot treat or diagnose. Typically manifests as red- ness in the central area of the face; character- ized by flare-ups and remissions. Exacerbated by alcohol, spicy foods, and heat |
Treatments goals for Sen- sitive and Sensitized Skin or Rosacea | • Identify and avoid stimuli that provoke a response. • Provide skin with topical application of ingredients that help calm and soothe. • Help maintain the skin’s protective mois- ture barrier. • Encourage client to consult a dermatol- ogist when exper |
vasoconstricting | Refers to something that causes vascular constriction of capillaries and reduced blood flow |
CAUTION: Contraindica- tions for Sensitive or Sen- sitized Skin, or Rosacea | This type of skin should avoid the following: • Strong exfoliants such as coarse manual materials, microdermabrasion, aggressive AHA or BHA peels, vacuum suction, the brush machine, and any ingredients with a pH of 3.5 or lower • Steam during treatment |
Treatments for Hyperpigmentation | • Chemical exfoliation and brightening agents can be effective in reducing some hyperpigmented areas. • Use ingredients that can help brighten the appearance of the skin and work to help reduce the appearance of dark spots. • Those ingredients can be us |
Treatments for Oily Skin | Can develop breakouts easily, so it is important to treat the skin with effective deep cleansing and purifying products. • Galvanic current, steam, and extractions can benefit oily skin to keep the pores free of comedones, and exfoliation with oil-contr |
DESCRIBE ACNE FACIALS | - teristics as oily skin but hormones, stress, and other biological factors have caused the forma- tion of acne pustules. Blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, and pustules are present and easily infected with bacteria. • Eliminate blackheads from the skin th |
Acne Treatment | While estheticians do not diagnose acne, they must be aware of this skin condition and know how to properly provide a facial. • Outline an acne treatment plan to balance the skin. Treatments are focused on deep cleansing and extractions. • Look for indi |
CAUTION | Physicians prescribe medications that work to suppress acne flare-ups; however, medications can have adverse side effects and, even with medication, acne can return. Working with problem skin is a continuous process, and cli- ents need to follow regular s |
Products and Equip- ment for Acne Care | Desincrustation, steam, and extractions are all part of an oily and problem skin facial |
Beta hydroxy acid salicylic acid) | Dissolves keratin, improving the look and the feel of the skin |
Sulfur masks | Exfoliate skin and dry blemishes |
AHA (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tar- taric acids | Helps dissolve dead skin cells to keep the skin surface exfoliated. Exfoliation also softens acne impactions |
Vitamin A or retinol | Both retinol and retinyl palmitate are forms of vitamin A. Topical vitamin that helps to reduce flaking and restore the appearance of skin suppleness. In a spa or salon, formulations should never exceed 30 percent retinol and should never be lower than 3. |
Benzoyl peroxide | Releases oxygen that kills bacteria and helps exfoliate skin. |
Kojic acid | Derived from mushrooms; helps to brighten the appearance of the skin |
Spot blemish treatments | Include ingredients such as beta hydroxyl acid, tea tree oil, and benzoyl peroxide that are applied just on blemishes after cleansing. |
Increased vitamin C | Has antioxidant value and healing effects. |
DID YOU KNOW? | The blue light of LED therapy is beneficial for the treatment of acne. |
Acne Care Tips | • Eliminate comedogenic products. Oil-free does not mean “noncomedogenic.” Examine ingredients on product labels. • Control oil through proper product usage. Do not irritate the skin with harsh products. • Exfoliate the skin. BHAs and AHAs are beneficia |
Home Care for Acne | It is important that you advise clients not to pick at blemishes. Picking at blemishes or performing self-extractions may cause an infection, which will then require client to see a dermatologist to treat infections. All home care includes an analysis of |
Extraction Techniques | One of the most important skills an esthetician must learn. Furthermore, each state in the United States has specific requirements for esthetic training and subsequent licensing, and each state regulates the type of treatment and implements permissible by |
ImportanceofInfection Control | Essential when performing extractions, and the process must be correctly executed before, during, and after for each treatment |
Reusable instruments | Should be placed in a sterilizer or autoclave which completely kills all microorganisms— including bacteria, viruses, fungi, and bacterial spores—with highly pressurized steam. |
Disposable instruments | If you do not have a sterilizer or autoclave, use only disposable instruments and dispose after every use to avoid cross-contamination. |
Extraction Training | The skin must be exfoliated and warmed before extractions are performed. • Imperative that the esthetician wear gloves during extractions and then change the gloves before performing the rest of the facial to prevent the spread of infection. Protective |
Extraction Methods | To achieve optimum success, you must put pressure on the skin surrounding the follicular wall so that you can extract the impaction with the least trauma to surrounding tissue. |
Manual comedone removal | Gauze wrapped around gloved fingers, damp- ened with astringent; useful for the majority of extractions. |
Comedone extractors | Metal tools used for open comedones and sebaceous filaments |
Comedone swabs | Smaller than fingertips and are especially use- ful around the nose area |
Lancets | Small, sharp, pointed needle used to make a tiny opening in the epidermis; used for the removal of milia or pustules (check with your state board to see if this is permissible). Important note: Cysts and nodules must be treated by a dermatologist |
DID YOU KNOW? | All areas of the forehead, the top of the nose, the chin, and the jawline have follicular walls perpendicular to the surface of the skin. The follicles are positioned this way on all flat surfaces. All other areas of the skin, such as the sides of the nos |
Treatment for Milia (Closed Comedones | Milia are small epidermal cysts; often referred to as tiny whiteheads; usually occur around the eyes, upper surface of the cheeks, and forehead. Milia are keratinized sebum trapped under the skin surface and you may need the help of a lancet to expose the |
Massage movements with beards | Professional movements during a man’s facial should flow with the hair growth. Most massage movements in the beard area should move down-ward, not upward |
Exfoliation on shaven skin | Shaving before a facial makes the skin more sensitive. On freshly shaven skin, exfoliating products or techniques, including strong sensi- tizing agents such as alpha hydroxy acids and microdermabrasion, may be contraindicated. |
Folliculitis | Inflammation of the hair follicles; can be a problem for many men, especially if they have very coarse or curly beard hair. It is an infec- tion characterized by inflammation and pus. |
Folliculitis barbae | Hair grows slightly under the skin and is trapped, causing a bacterial infection. Treatment goal is to alleviate the irritation, dry up and dis- infect the pustules, and desensitize the area. |
Pseudofolliculitis | Also known as razor bumps; resembles follic- ulitis without the infection. This condition also results from improper shaving techniques. |
Products for ingrown hairs | • Exfoliation to keep follicles open. • Foaming cleanser |