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Coastal Processes
Question | Answer |
---|---|
Coastline | The boundary between the coast and the ocean which is always changing as a result of erosion and deposition |
Wave refraction | The process of waves bending and changing due to different water depths |
Wave | Disturbances of the sea due to friction between the water and wind |
Hydraulic action | The force of the waves pounding on the coast |
Compressed air/ cavitation | Air forced into cracks and bedding planes in the coast and pressure is then released causing small explosions weakening the rock |
Abrasion | Sand, small pebbles and boulders that are thrown against the coastline by waves |
Attrition | When eroded materials erodes themselves by colliding against each other |
Transport | LONGSHORE DRIFT: the transport of loose material across a beach by swash and backwash |
Deposition | Occurs as the sea loses energy and drops its bedload |
Swash | Wave action that brings material up the shore at the same angle as the waves |
Backwash | Wave action that brings material back down the shore at a 90 degree angle |