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Coastal Processes
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Coastline | The boundary between the coast and the ocean which is always changing as a result of erosion and deposition |
| Wave refraction | The process of waves bending and changing due to different water depths |
| Wave | Disturbances of the sea due to friction between the water and wind |
| Hydraulic action | The force of the waves pounding on the coast |
| Compressed air/ cavitation | Air forced into cracks and bedding planes in the coast and pressure is then released causing small explosions weakening the rock |
| Abrasion | Sand, small pebbles and boulders that are thrown against the coastline by waves |
| Attrition | When eroded materials erodes themselves by colliding against each other |
| Transport | LONGSHORE DRIFT: the transport of loose material across a beach by swash and backwash |
| Deposition | Occurs as the sea loses energy and drops its bedload |
| Swash | Wave action that brings material up the shore at the same angle as the waves |
| Backwash | Wave action that brings material back down the shore at a 90 degree angle |