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COS CH20
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| acid-balanced waves | Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH |
| alkaline waves | Also known as cold waves; they have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 |
| amino acids | Compounds made up of carbon |
| ammonia-free waves | Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia |
| ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) | Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. |
| base control | Position of the tool in relation to its base section |
| base cream | Also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. |
| base direction | Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally |
| base placement | Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
| base relaxers | Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. |
| base sections | Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section. |
| basic permanent wrap | Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod. |
| bookend wrap | Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. |
| bricklay permanent wrap | Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair. |
| chemical hair relaxing | A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. |
| chemical texture services | Hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair. |
| concave rods | Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. |
| croquignole perm wrap | Perm in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. |
| curvature permanent wrap | Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. |
| disulfide bonds | Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. |
| double flat wrap | Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped. |
| double-rod wrap | Also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft |
| end papers | Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. |
| endothermic waves | Perm activated by an outside heat source |
| exothermic waves | Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing. |
| glyceryl monothioglycolate | |
| (GMTG) | Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. |
| half off-base placement | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section |
| hydrogen bonds | Weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling) |
| hydroxide neutralization | An acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds. |
| hydroxide relaxers | Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers. |
| keratin proteins | Long |
| lanthionization | Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond. |
| loop rod | Also known as circle rod; tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. |
| low-pH waves | Perms that use sulfates |
| metal hydroxide relaxers | Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium |
| no-base relaxers | Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream. |
| normalizing lotions | Conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH before the final neutralizing shampoo. |
| off-base placement | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below the center of the base section |
| on-base placement | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section |
| peptide bonds | Also known as end bonds; chemical bonds that join amino acids together |
| permanent waving | A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair then undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer. |
| polypeptide chains | Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. |
| side bonds | Disulfide |
| single flat wrap | Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper |
| soft bender rods | Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. |
| soft curl permanent | A thio based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves. |
| spiral perm wrap | Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod |
| straight rods | Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. |
| thioglycolic acid | The most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. |
| thio neutralization | Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form. |
| thio relaxers | Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving |
| thio-free waves | Perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent |
| true acid waves | Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves |
| viscosity | The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows. |
| weave technique | Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. |
Created by:
cvis
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