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317; Lecture 21

TermDefinition
Coastal geomorphology the study of the morphological development and evolution of the coast as it acts under the influence of winds, waves, currents, and sea-level changes
Surface waves undulations formed by wind blowing over a water surface
Fetch the distance that the wind has blown over an area of sea
Longshore currents currents that move parallel to shore between the breaker zone and the shore
Breaker zone The zone within which waves approaching the coastline are breaking; a subsection of the shoreface
Longshore drift transport of sediments along shorelines by longshore currents
Rip currents relatively strong, narrow current flowing outward from the beach towards the ocean
Tsunami wave produced by faulting on the sea floor – pushing up of water by sudden change in depth
Tides movement of water bodies controlled by the gravitational interaction between the earth and moon
Semi-diurnal tides two high tides and two low tides per day
Spring tides higher than normal high tides occurring when the moon and sun are in line
Neap tides lower than normal low tides occurring when the moon and sun are at a 90° angle
Microtidal less than 2 m between high and low tide
Mesotidal 2-4 m between high and low tide
Macrotidal more than 4 m between high and low tide
Wave-dominated coasts longshore currents redistribute shoreline sediment
Tide-dominated coasts strong tidal currents redistribute shoreline sediment
Created by: turboqueen
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