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Chapter 10

Facials, Chapter 10, Pivot Point Esthetics

TermDefinition
4 basic steps of skin care Cleansing, Toning, Moisturizing, Protecting
Cleansing Step Remove surface impurities with a product that does not strip skin of its natural conditioners and essential moisture.
Toning Step To restore the natural pH of the skin (4.5-5.5) following cleansing.
Moisturizing Step Compensates for the unavoidable losses skin sustains from aging and exposure to the environment.
Protecting Step Keep safe from damaging effects of sun exposure.
Twice Number of times per day the basic skin care regimen is recommended to be performed.
Astringents or toners (also called refiners) called refiners) Helps to further cleanse the skin and return it to its natural PH (4.5-5.5)
Moisturizers Skin care products that are used to replenish and balance moisture and oil as well as protect the skin.
30% Faster Rate at which skin cells renew at night versus daytime.
Sunscreen Protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays projected from the sun.
2 forms of exfoliants Manual (Mechanical) and Chemical
Manual/Mechanical Exfoliant Grainy or rough texture that is rubbed against the skin to remove dead skin cells
Chemical Exfoliant Contains a natural substance such as an enzyme or alpha hydroxy acid that works with other ingredients to cause a chemical reaction that removes dead skin cells.
Clay/mud Masks Rich in minerals, absorbs excess oil, tightens and refines pores. Not recommended for dry skin but well suited to Oily and acne skin types.
Creme Masks Generally rich in moisturizer, humectants and other nutrient-rich ingredients such as vitamins. Ideal for dry skin types.
Gel Masks Designed for a wide variety or purposes depending on their ingredients.
Modeling Masks Mixed with water and applied in a thick consistency. Within minutes these masks harden to a rubber-like consistency and then can be pulled from the face.
Parrafin Masks Type of wax that is used for hands, feet and face.
Massage Systematic, therapeutic method of manipulating the body by rubbing, pinching, tapping, kneading or stroking with hands, fingers or an instrument.
Benefits of massage Increased circulation, muscle relaxation, pain relief, Relief from stress and body tension, stronger muscle tissue.
5 basic movements of massage Effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, friction, vibration
Effleurage Light, continuous-stroking massage movement applied with fingers and palms in a slow and rhythmic manner.
Fulling Form of petrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently lifted, and spread out; used mainly for massaging the arms. Resembles a kneading movement.
Tapotement Also known as percussion; light tapping or slapping movement applied with fingertips and partly flexed fingers.should never be used on sensitive skin or on certain skin conditions such as acne and rosacea.
Hacking Chopping movement performed with the edges of the hands in massage.
Friction Circular or wringing movement with no gliding, usually performed with the fingertips or palms of the hands.
Chucking Friction used on arms or body. Performed by holding the clients arm in one hand and lifting the skin firmly up and down over the bone with the other hand.
Wringing Friction used on arms or body. Hands are placed a little distance apart on both sides of the client's arm or leg and working downward, apply a twisting motion against the bones in the opposite direction.
Vibration Shaking movement achieved when the esthetician quickly shakes their arms while the fingertips or palms are touching the client.
Petrissage Light or heavy kneading, pinching and rolling of the muscles.
Jacquet Movements Small amount of skin is grasped between teh thumb and forefinger. The skin is twisted in a motion similar to snapping your fingers.
5 basic skin types Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, Mature/Aging
Normal Skin Contains sufficient moisture and sebum production. Displays few breakouts and clogged areas.
Dry Skin -lacks adequate sebum production -heightened sensitivity -prone to fine lines & wrinkles -small pores -thin & delicate
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) Represents the degree of exposure, or time, that an individual can sustain exposure to the sun before the skin starts to burn. For example SPF 15 indicates that you can stay in the sun for 15 minutes more than you could with no protection.
Dehydration Loss of fluids/lack of moisture.
Skin Analysis Determines skin type, skin condition, and needed treatment.
Oily Skin Displays excess sebum production, thick and shiny, larger pores, prone to breakouts and clogged areas, less likely to show fine lines and wrinkles.
Combination Skin Displays areas that are both dry and oily most common skin type. Possibly maybe have larger pores in T-zone.
Mature Aging Skin -displays loose, thin, crepe-like skin -apparent fine lines & wrinkles -lacks elasticity and firmness -natural aging process results in increased dryness -shows premature aging process with exposure to sun & environment
Couperose Displays fine dilated capillaries (telangiectasia) most frequently found on the cheeks and corners of nose; often caused by damage or trauma to the skin or harsh products; sensitive to extreme temperatures and harsh products and chemicals.
Rosacea Vascular disorder, characterized by flushed redness, dilated capillaries and small red bumps.
Acne Caused by over-activity of sebaceous glads; characterized by the presence of blackheads, whiteheads, papules and pustules.
Wood's lamp Allows analysis of skin surface and deeper layers to aid in determining treatment. Different colors will indicate various conditions.
Desincrustation solution Highly alkaline solution that liquefies sebum.
Saponification Chemical reaction during desincrustation where alkali and sebum react to form sodium hydroxide; process is a chemical reaction where the fatty stearic acids in sebum react with the alkali to form soap, therefore softening the sebum for easier extractions.
Ventouse Device that vacuums/suctions the skin to remove impurities and stimulate circulation.
Galvanic Desincrustation Uses negative current in conjunction with alkaline solution to saponify sebum. Completed with positive current to lower skins PH.
Galvanic Iontophoresis Uses positive current to penetrate nourishing, hydrating and firming ingredients into the skin.
Indirect High Frequency Client holds electrode and esthetician gently massages the face. Gloves cannot be worn during this procedure.
Direct High Frequency Electrode is placed directly on the face,best suite for oily or acne prone skin and performed immediately after extractions.
Antiseptic Assist in preventing the growth of bacteria on the skin.
Excessive sun exposure Causes of 90% of wrinkles
Natural aging process Causes 10% of wrinkles
Created by: BBLaird