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Chapter 12

Makeup Design, Chapter 12, Pivot Point Esthetics

Term	Definition
Law of Color	States that, out of all of the colors in the universe, only the three primary colors are pure.
Primary/Pure Colors	Red, Yellow and Blue. These colors cannot be created by combing other colors. However, when mixed together these colors create all other colors.
Secondary Colors	Orange, Green and Violet.
Tertiary Colors	Created by mixing a primary color with a neighboring secondary color.
Color Wheel	Tool in which the 12 (3 primary, 3 secondary and 6 tertiary) colors are positioned in a circle.
Position of colors on the color wheel	Demonstrates the relationship of each color to the primary color.
Complementary color	Colors located directly opposite one another on the color wheel.
Hue	Another term for Color
Tint	A hue with white added.
Shade	A hue with black added.
Value	The lightness or darkness of a color.
Intensity	Refers to the vibrancy of a color.
Tone	Refers to the warmth or coolness of a color.
Monochromatic color scheme	Uses the same color with variations in value and intensity throughout the makeup design.
Analogous color scheme	Uses colors that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel and is often used for daytime makeup.
Triadic color scheme	Use the 3 colors located in a triangle position on the color wheel and is often used for vibrant effects.
Warm and Cool	Terms used to describe the tones of colors and the skin.
Warm colors	Contain red or yellow undertones. Generally categorized in the Orange and Red half of the color wheel.
Cool colors	Contain Blue undertones. Generally categorized in the Blue and Green half of the color wheel.
Neutral colors	Tones that are neither warm or cool.
Contouring	Also known as shading, means to create an outline, especially of a curving or irregular figure or shape.
Highlighting	Used to enhance features, making them appear larger or more prominent and well proportioned wit the rest of the face.
Chiaroscuro	The art of arranging light and dark so as to produce the illusion of three-dimensional shapes.
Oval	Face shape that is generally the most symmetric and balanced. Considered to be the ideal or classic shape.
Round	Face shape that is circular, appears to be short and wide rather than long and narrow. Characterized by a rounded hairline and chin-line.
Oblong/Long/Rectangular	Face shape that tends to be long, narrow and angular. Can be visibly shortened by applying deeper tones under the chin and horizontally at the temples.
Pear	Face shape that as a narrow forehead and wide jawline.
Square	Face shape usually characterized by broad, straight forehead and hairline as well as a broad jawline.
Heart	Face characterized with a wider forehead and narrow jaw.
Diamond	The face shape featuring a narrow forehead, extreme width through the cheekbones, narrow chin and jawlines.
No Eyebrows	Can make face appear expressionless.
Thin, sculpted eyebrows	Appear dramatic and can make the eyes seem close-set.
Classic	Well positioned arches that help create symmetry while framing the eyes.
Horizontal	Often have a slight downward slant on outside edge. Can create a sad, worried look.
Thin, high eyebrows	Cause the forehead to appear narrow because they are positioned higher up. Often very rounded, they create a surprised facial expression.
Full	Eyebrows that, due to their heaviness, accentuate the the qualities of the line and position in which they are created.
Eyebrows placed too far apart	Make the eyes appear farther apart and can make the forehead appear wider.
Natural eyebrows	Typically have stray hairs and do not create a definite line or effect.
Deep-set eyes	Require little contouring. Light and bright colors help bring recessed area forward.
Drooping eyes	Lifted by applying dark shadows and liners in upward motion.
Almond eyes	Classic shape. Enhanced by defining natural shape with smudgy liner.
Wide-set eyes	Can appear to be deeper and closer together by concentrating and blending shadows in inner corners, then softly blending to bridge of nose.
Close-set eyes	Can be drawn outward by applying eyeliner to the outer edges of both the top and bottom lids extending the lines outward. Extending the outer edges of the eyebrows may also be helpful.
Small Eyes	Benefit from brighter colors and soft shading of both upper and lower lids, which helps to define the eyes. Contouring above the natural eyelid creates an open spacious feeling.
Bulging Eyes	Benefit from contouring the protruding lid. Lower lids and tops of eyelids can be lined with a very deep eyeliner of the same color, then connected at inner corners.
Asian Eyes	To enhance add deep eyeliner at the base of lash-line, where thickness is toward the inner part of the eye. On lower lid thicker liner can be applied at the outer edges, thinning to inner part of lid. Neutral color inner corners to just above iris.
Hooded Eyes	Can be enhanced by receding fleshy area of upper lid using a medium shading color in inner eye area.
Full top lips	Balance by lining slightly inside the natural shape.
Uneven lips	Compensate by creating an asymmetrical line on the side you choose to match.
Downturned Lips	Create a line toward the outer corners that extends just above the natural fall.
Small lips	Outline just pat the outer edge of the natural lip-line.
Thin lips	Draw line beyond natural lip line and create a high point at bow of upper and center of lower lip.
Full lips	Line upper and lower lips inside the natural lip line.
Full bottom lips	Balance by extending beyond the natural upper lip line then draw a lower lip line that is within he natural line.
45 degrees	Maximum number of degrees the chair should recline when applying makeup in order to prevent the appearance of flattening your clients face.
Creme to powder and powder foundations	Known as "one-step" or "dual finish" products because they combine powder and foundation in one step.
Liquid	Most common form of foundation.
2 basic liquid formulas	Oil-free/water based (for oily complexions) and Oil-based (for dryer skin types).
Creme Foundation	Has heavier consistency and used when additional coverage is needed.
Pancake, pan-stick, greasepaint	Oil-based foundations that are used when heavy coverage is needed. referred to as maximum coverage and can be applied with damp or dry sponge.
Suitable for most skin types	Liquid foundation
Appropriate for Oily skin	Water based or oil-free foundation
Appropriate for dry or mature skin	Oil-based or moisturizing foundation
Match foundation to skin	General guideline unless correction is needed.
Cool Undertone	Blue/violet, Reddish/red-violet (skin tone)
Neutral Undertone	Brown/Grey (skin tone)
Warm Undertone	Light peach, Yellow, Medium peach (skin tone)
Translucent powder	Designed to allow skin and foundation shade to show through.
3rds of eye	Eyelid, crease (or fold) and brow bone.
Well spaced eyes	Have width of one eye between them.
Wide set eyes	Have greater than one full eye space between them
Close set eyes	Have less that one full eye space between them.
Eyeliner	Used to accent the eyes and enhance the thickness of the lashes.
Mascara	Define, thickens and lengthens the eyelashes.
Lip liner	Applied around the outer edge of the lips to define the shape and prevent lipstick from bleeding onto the skin around the mouth. May also be used to visually correct imperfections in lip shape.
Makeup application	80% art and 20% science
Camouflage Makeup	Used to normalize , or correct, the appearance of clients who have experienced disfigurement.
Powder	When used in contouring and setting it creates a matte finish.
Used to create a longer look on a round face	Blend contour down from cheekbone.

Created by: BBSchool

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