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Oceanography Exam 1
Physical Oceanography
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Age of the earth? | 4.6 Billion Years |
| What is the Nebular Hypothesis? | A sun exploded, blowing out gas & dust, thus creating the solar system. |
| What is Nuclear Fusion? | Gravity pulls particles together after the sun explodes, heats them up and collects in the center. |
| What is the Giant Impact Hypothesis? | A Mars-sized body collided with Earth and created our moon. |
| How long ago did life begin on Earth? | 3.7 Billion years ago. |
| What did Earth's early atmosphere include? | Nitrogen, ammonia, water, carbon dioxide, and methane. |
| Who is James Cook? | The Father of Oceanography |
| Who is Eratosthenes? | Developed the first system of latitude and longitude. |
| What does latitude measure? | North & South |
| What does longitude measure? | East & West |
| Who is Matthew Fontaine Maury? | First "Full-Time" Oceanographer |
| Who is John Harrison? | Created the Number 4 Chronometer |
| Who is Fridtjof Nansen? | First professor of Oceanography Captained the Fram Proved there was no northern continent |
| Who are Thomson & Murray? | Captained the Challenger Expedition |
| Who is Ferdinand Magellan? | First "Around the World" voyage |
| What is JOIDES? | Joint Oceanographic Institute for Deep Earth Sampling |
| What is the Library of Alexandria? | World's first University Held written knowledge of all kinds |
| What is the total water on Earth? | 97.5% Salt Water 2.5% Fresh Water |
| What is the Deepest point in the ocean? | Mariana Trench |
| How deep is the Challenger Deep? | 36,163 ft |
| What is the mean land elevation? | 2,800 ft |
| What is the mean depth of the sea? | 12,500 ft |
| What are the three main layers of the earth based on composition? | Crust, Mantle, Core |
| What are the five layers of the earth based on physical properties? | Lithosphere, Asthenosphere, Mesosphere, Outer Core, Inner Core |
| Original Lines of Evidence of Continental Drift? | Pangea ( fit of the continents ) same extinct species of plants/animals on separate continents same types of rock on separate continents past glaciation |
| Modern lines of evidence of continental drift? | Seismic Activity Magnetic Structural: ridges & trenches Presence of hot spots Age of the seafloor |
| Convergent Plate Boundaries? | Plates coming together |
| Convergent - Ocean v Continental Example | Andes Mountains |
| Convergent - Ocean v Ocean Example | Japan |
| Convergent - Continental v Continental Example | Himalayas |
| Divergent Plate Boundaries? | Plates pulling apart |
| Divergent - Continental v Continental Example | East African Rift Valley |
| Divergent - Ocean v Ocean Example | Mid-Atlantic Ridge |
| Transform Plate Boundaries? | Plates sliding past each other |
| Transform Example | San Andreas Fault |
| What is the Wilson Cycle? | Explains the opening and closing of ocean basins |
| Stages of the Wilson Cycle? | Embryonic - East African Rift Valley Juvenile - Red Sea Mature - Atlantic Ocean Declining - Pacific Ocean Terminal - Mediterranean Sea Suturing - Himalayas |
| How old is the oldest ocean crust? | 180 million years |
| Where is the oldest ocean crust located? | western Pacific |
| What is the most important driver of plate tectonics? | Convection |
| What was the vessels name that traveled to the Challenger Deep? | Trieste |
| Who traveled to the Challenger Deep? | Walsh and Piccard |
| Florida Coast is shaped by? | Underwater Currents |
| Oregon Coast is shaped by? | Major river & Subduction |
| Texas coast is shaped by? | Salt Domes |
| What creates Submarine Canyons? | Underwater landslides & lower sea levels |
| What are Turbidites? | turbid flows of sediment |
| What are turbidites triggered by? | earthquakes storms volcanoes |
| What are Guyots? | flat top seamounts that break sea level |
| What are Seamounts? | non-flat top that never breaks sea level |
| Ichnology | The study of tracks, trails, and burrows (both modern and ancient). |
| How do we sample ocean floor sediments? | Clam Shell Scoop, Core Sample, Piston Core, Drill into the sea floor, Seismic Stratigraphy, Submarines, Divers |
| What are the states of Matter | Solid, Liquid, Gas |
| Irving Langmuir | Described plasma as a state of matter |
| Heat | Energy produced by the vibration of atoms/molecules |
| Temperature | The measure of how rapidly the molecules of a substance are vibrating |
| Calorie | Energy necessary to raise 1 gram of water 1 degree celsius |
| Heat Capacity | A measure of the heat required to raise temp of 1 gram of a substance by 1 degree celsius |
| What is Refraction? | The bending of energy as it goes from one medium to another. |
| What is the Electromagnetic Spectrum? | How we break up different energies |
| Below ______m ocean water is about the _______ | 2000 ; same |
| As salinity increases, density ______ | increases |
| As temperature decreases, density _______ | increases |
| Photic Zone | 100-600m in clear water |
| Aphotic Zone | no light > 600m |
| pH scale | measure of acidity |
| pH of salt water | 7.8 - 8.3 |
| the bicarbonate ion keeps the pH of the oceans _______ | constant |
| Equinox | 3/20, 9/22, 923 |
| Solstice | 6/21, 6/22, 12/21, 12/22 |
| What causes the seasons? | tilt of earth's axis |
| Heat is transferred by? | Conduction Radiation Convection |
| What is Convection? | hot matter moves from one location to another. |
| Coriolis Effect | an effect where a mass moving in a rotating system experiences a force acting perpendicular to the direction of motion and to the axis of rotation. |
| ITCZ | Intertropical Convergence Zone |
| Vilhelm Bjerknes | Named storm systems "fronts". |
| Antoine-laurent Lavoisier | "discovered" water |
| Where do salts in the sea come from? | Runoff from land Excess Volatiles Hydrothermal Vents @ Mid-Ocean Ridges |
| Forchhammers Principle of Constant Properties | the proportions of the major salts in seawater stay about the same everywhere. |
| How do we measure salinity? | Chemically Electric Salinometer Optical Salinometer Evaporation of water from a sample of seawater |
| How do hurricanes cause the most damage? | Wind Rain Storm Surge Tornado |
| El Nino | A period of climate change Trade winds slack and reverse direction |
| What happens in SoCal during El Nino? | Rain & Flooding |
| What happens in South America during El Nino? | Torrential Rainfall & Flooding |
| What happens in Asia during El Nino? | Drought |
| La Nina | trade winds become stronger than normal |
| What happens during a La Nina? | Upwelling in South America East Pacific Countries experience intense droughts Number of Hurricanes increases |
| Ocean Gyres | Rotates the ocean basins; North Atlantic South Atlantic North Pacific South Pacific Indian West Wind Drift |
| Ekman Spiral | Shows direction of wind driven water motion and how it curves/varies with depth. |
| Currents in Atlantic Ocean | Gulf Stream N. Atlantic Current Canary Current N. Equatorial Current Labrador Current |
| Currents in Pacific Ocean | Kuroshio N. Pacific California N. Equatorial Alaska |
| Western Boundary Current | Warm, Swift, Large, Narrow, Deep Gulf Stream, Kuroshio |
| Eastern Boundary Current | Cold, Slow, Small, Shallow, Broad California, Canary |
| CCD | The level below which calcium carbonate is dissolved (~4500m) |
| Langmuir Circulation | consists of a series of shallow, slow, counter-rotating vortices at the ocean's surface aligned with the wind. These circulations are developed when wind blows steadily over the sea surface. |
| Windrows | "lines of foam" air passing over water parts and then converges |
| Thermohaline Circulation | Currents below the pycnocline Is responsible for overall global circulation of oceans |
| Global Conveyer Model | Moving water & heat around earth's surface |
| Surface Water | Surface to 660ft |
| Central Water | 660ft ---> bottom of Thermocline |
| Intermediate Water | Bottom of Thermocline ---> ~5000ft |
| Deep Water | 5000ft ---> ~13000ft |
| Bottom Water | 13000ft ---> Seafloor |
| Caballing | two water masses with equal density combine to create a third water mass with a higher density |
| Specific Water Masses | Antarctic Bottom Water North Atlantic Deep Water Antarctic Intermediate Water Mediterranean Water Pacific Deep Water |
| How do we measure currents? | Drogue Garbage floating in the ocean SOFAR floats Ekman Flow meter Through-Hull Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler Slocum Glider Acoustical Tomography |
| What makes waves? | Wind Earthquakes Landslides Gravity |
| Deep Water Waves | depth greater than half the wave length |
| Transitional Waves | depth less than L/2 but greater than L/20 |
| Shallow Waves | depth less than L/20 |
| Swell | waves that have traveled out of the area where they were created |
| Tsunami's are formed from: | earthquakes and underwater landslides |
| Causes of Tsunami's | Earthquakes Meteorites Volcanoes Rockslides/Landslides |
| Lisbon, Portugal 1755 | first time an earthquake and tsunami were associated with each other |
| Chile 1960 | 9.6 earthquake - largest recorded |
| Indonesia 2004 | 9.0 earthquake |
| Maelstrom | Zone of rough water that circulates |
| Spring Tides | Highest high tide and lowest low tide |
| Neap Tides | weakest tides (first quarter moon) |
| Semidiurnal tides | 2 equal high tides and 2 equal low tides over 24 hours |
| Diurnal tides | 1 high tide and 1 low tide over 24 hours |
| Mixed tides | 2 unequal high tides and 2 unequal low tides over 24 hours |
| Amphidromic Points | points of canceling tides due to the coriolis effect. |
| Bay of Fundy Gulf of California | Macrotidal Regime |
| Beaches | the steeper the angle of the beach, the coarser the material on the beach |
| Rillmarks | water draining back to the sea from beach face |
| Ripples | flowing water |
| Swash marks | pattern of 'v' shapes on the beach face due to sorting of grains with different densities. |
| 2 types of coastlines | emergent (erosional) submergent (depositional) |
| Emergent Coastlines | sea cliffs sea caves sea arch sea stack exposed beach headland wave-cut platform |
| Submergent Coastlines | bay sandspit barrier island lagoon bay mouth bar |
| Wave Dominated Delta | Nile delta |
| River Dominated Delta | Mississippi River |
| Tide Dominated Delta | Colorado River, Ganges River |
| Diatoms | produce ~80% of the air we breathe |
| Sources of CO2 | burning & decaying of biomass respiration weathering of carbonate rock volcanic activity burning of fossil fuels |
| Sinks of CO2 | burial of biomass photosynthesis deposition of carbonate sediments weathering of granite CO2 dissolves in seawater |
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