chapter 16
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| semipermanent haircolor | deposit-only haircolor that is not mixed with a developer and is formulated to last through several shampoos.
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| color wheel | a chart, usually circular, used as a tool that visually represents the relationships between colors; shows harmonizing and contrasting colors and illustrates the rules and guidelines of color theory.
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| foil technique | highlighting technique that involves coloring selected hair strands by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil, applying lightener or haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil for processing.
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| balayage | also known as free-form technique or free-style hair painting, painting lightener (usually a powdered or clay off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, dry hair for a more natural-looking highlight.
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| permanent haircolors | lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more alkaline than demipermanent colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer.
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| temporary haircolors | nonoxidative haircolors that make only a physical change–not a chemical change–on the hair shaft. This nonpermanent haircolor has large pigment molecules that only deposit a coating of haircolor on the cortex, which may be removed by shampooing the hair.
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| conditioner fillers | recondition and equalize porosity on damaged hair; they condition, strengthen, help extend haircolor longevity, and make the haircolor formulation cover hair evenly from scalp to ends.
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| low-lighting | technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color.
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| gloss | hair treatment and product that contains oxidative dyes and designed to add extreme shine to hair.
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| natural haircolor | also known as vegetable-dye haircolors; colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants.
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| hair color | (two words) natural color of hair.
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| tertiary color | ntermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.
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| hydrogen peroxide | H2O2, oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidative haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color.
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| level system | measurement system that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of artificial and natural hair color.
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| lighteners | also called bleach or decolorizer, chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment.
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| double-process application | also known as two-step blonding or double-process blonding; coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is pre-lightened before the depositing color is applied to the hair.
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| contributing pigment | also known as undertone; the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process.
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| glaze | or haircolor glaze, describes a haircolor service that adds shine, warmth, and color to the hair.
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| prelightening | first step of double-process haircoloring; used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the toner application.
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| primary colors | pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors
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| volume | measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide.
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| secondary color | color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors.
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| strand test | determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.
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| toners | permanent haircolor products mixed with a low-volume developer that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors.
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| color fillers | equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment that supports the desired finished haircolor.
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| soap cap | a common industry practice used to refresh permanent haircolor; involves using a combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo and worked through the hair during the last five minutes of the service.
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| metallic haircolor | also known as progressive haircolor; haircolor containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air creating a dull, metallic appearance.
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| weaving | involves taking 1⁄8 inch (0.3 cm) hair sections by making a straight part at the scalp, then separating select strands using a tail comb to go in and out of the section; lightener or color is applied only to those strands.
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| off the scalp lighteners | strong and fast-acting lighteners; powdered clay lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp; oil, cream, and some powder lighteners considered (if specified by the manufacturer).
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| tone | also known as tonality, refers to color balance.
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| on the scalp lighteners | lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with activators.
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| base color | predominant tone of a color.
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| haircolor | (one word) professional, industry-coined term referring to artificial haircolor products and services.
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| demipermanent haircolor | formulated to deposit but not lift (lighten) natural hair color; haircolors meant to deepen or change the tone of natural hair color; two types include acidic and alkaline.
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| aniline derivatives | contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex.
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| activators | also known as boosters, protinators, or accelerators; powdered persulfate salts added to powder lightener to increase its lightening ability.
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| law of color | system for understanding color relationships.
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| developers | also known as oxidizing agents or catalysts; have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5, when mixed with an oxidative haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color.
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| single-process haircoloring | process that lightens or deposits color in the hair in a single application.
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| slicing | coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1⁄8-inch (0.3 cm) hair sections by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color.
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| new growth | also called regrowth; part of the hair shaft between the scalp and previously colored hair.
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| highlighting | refers to any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring, coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth.
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| intensity | the strength of a color.
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Jordanc1114