Chapter 20
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| Cuticle | Tough exterior layer of the hair. It surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage.
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| Cortex | Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. Is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair.
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| Medulla | INnermost layer of the hair, often called pith or core of the hair. Sometimes missing in fine hair.
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| Disulfied Bonds | Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Not broken by water.
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| Salt Bonds | relitively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges (ionic bonds) easily broken by chanes in pH, and they re-form when pH returns to normal.
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| Hydrogen Bonds | weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges. Are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling) and they re-form as the hair dries or cools.
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| Permanent Waving | two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and then the hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.
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| Alkaline Waves | Also known as cold waves, have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat.
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| Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) | Is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms.
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| Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) | The main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. Has a low pH.
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| True Acid Waves | HAve a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process. They process more slowly then alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.
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| Acid-Balanced Waves | Has a pH of 7.0 or neautral. Because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, amd produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
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| Exothermic Waves | Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing.
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| Endothermic Waves | Absorbs heat from surroundings. Activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.
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| Ammonia-free Waves | Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.
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| Thio-free Waves | use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine as the primary reducing agent.
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| End Papers | Also known as end wraps. Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
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Review the information in the table. When you are ready to quiz yourself you can hide individual columns or the entire table. Then you can click on the empty cells to reveal the answer. Try to recall what will be displayed before clicking the empty cell.
To hide a column, click on the column name.
To hide the entire table, click on the "Hide All" button.
You may also shuffle the rows of the table by clicking on the "Shuffle" button.
Or sort by any of the columns using the down arrow next to any column heading.
If you know all the data on any row, you can temporarily remove it by tapping the trash can to the right of the row.
To hide a column, click on the column name.
To hide the entire table, click on the "Hide All" button.
You may also shuffle the rows of the table by clicking on the "Shuffle" button.
Or sort by any of the columns using the down arrow next to any column heading.
If you know all the data on any row, you can temporarily remove it by tapping the trash can to the right of the row.
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