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Haircoloringg
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| alkaline substance | an ingredient in hair color that has a pH greater than 7, causing the cuticle to open and permanent color to enter the cortex |
| aniline derivitave | a COAL TAR derivative that creates the dye intermediates used in single-process permanent haircoloring. Patch test is required. |
| base color (BC) | Your client's natural or existing hair color. |
| bleach | product used to lighten hair; usually mixed with hyrdogen peroxide and highly alkaline. |
| brassy | term used to describe color that is off-color and contains too much warmth, either gold or orange. |
| certified hair colors | tints (temporary) registerd and deeemed safe by the FDA. |
| chelating agents | act to remove unwante buildup, such as metallic ions and metallic deposits; common ingredient in cleansing or clarifying shampoos. |
| clarifier | a treatment that removes unwanted buildup on the hair. |
| color base | the portion of the hair color mixture that connects or holds the other ingredients together. Can be liquid, cream, shampoo, protein, etc. May also refer to the dominant color in any given shade or series. |
| color wheel | the universal guide for color mixing and formulation. |
| complementary colors | colors that look best and brightest when place next to each other. When mixed, they neutralize one another. They are also opposite on the color wheel. |
| cool | lack of warmth, no warm tones; ash |
| cortex | the inner body (structure) of the hair shaft that is fibrous and contains the protein structure of the hair, as well as most of the natural pigment of the hair (is where the color molecules are located) |
| creme oil bleach | a bleach that contains oil, making it more gentle on the scalp. |
| cuticle | extremely thin protective outer layer of the hair shaft consisting of overlapping scales. Condition of cuticle determines porosity of hair. |
| decolorize | the process of removing natural or artifical pigment of the hair |
| deposit (+) | the portion of the single-process oxidation when the color intermediates enter the cortex of the hair |
| developer | the oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, that causes the hair color formula to activate when mixed with color product |
| direct dye | used in semipermanent color, it is a molecule that has color |
| dominant remaining pigment (DRP) | the color that controls or overpowers other colors or hues within the lifting process of haircoloring |
| double-process | the process that includes first prelightening or decolorizing the hair when bleach or like substance, then coloring with an oxidation tint or toner. |
| drab | a term used to determine ash, cool, or blue tones that neutralize unwanted warm tones. Also used as a verbto describe the process of doing the same. |
| fade | a loss of color intensity and depth |
| filler | a temporary replacement of lost pigment for overporous hair before the application of tint formula |
| Food and Drug Administration (FDA) | federal agency that regulates materials used in haircoloring |
| gold bands | undesirable brassy or gold tones that occur when hair is not lightened long enough |
| hair shaft | term used to descibe the portion of each strand of the hair that lies between 1/2 inch out from the scalp up to any porous ends |
| henna | a vegetable dye that originated in asia centuries ago. It is a progressive and coating dye |
| humectants | a chemical or substance in hair products helping the hair to retain moisture (water). (molecules that attract moisture or water) |
| hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) | the common oxidizing substance mixed with hair tint that develops the hair color and causes oxidation |
| keratin | the strong, fibrous, insoluble protein that comprises approximately 95% of the hair shaft |
| Law of Color | the emelementary rules that form the foundation of all reference to color, including the primary colors and how they combine to make all other color. |
| level | the exact measurement that determines the degree of light or dark in each color. Most color companies use 10 levels to determine thier color formulas |
| Level System | the system of permanent haircoloring using levels of color as the standards |
| lift (-) | removing, subtracting, or lightening color from the hair. Can also refer the lightening ability of hair color or the amount a certain volume of developer which oxidize |
| lightening | the process of removing or substracting pigment from the hair. |
| line of demarcation | the line of regrowth between colored hair and natural hair |
| melanin | natural pigment of the hair, most of which is usually found in the cortex |
| metallic dyes | dyes that are made from metallic salts. They coat the hair and are progressive, getting increasingly dark and coated. They are extremely difficult to remove. Can cause severe problems if colored over. |
| molecules | groups of atoms joined by chemical bonds |
| multiporous | hair that has more than once porosity within the strand |
| oxidation | a reaction occuring when permanent tints are mixed with hydrogen peroxide, causing lift and deposit of natural and synthetic color pigments. It has limited effectiveness, usually determed by the volume of the H2O2 used |
| para-phenol pigments | a coal tar or aniline derivative most often found in hair color and responsible for the pigmentation |
| para-phenylenediamine (PPD) | the basic, original aniline deriviate used in single-process haircoloring |
| patch test | a skin test that determines sensitivity or allergy to a product or chemicals. In perm haircoloring, any products containing aniline derivative are required by FDA to have test 24 hours prior to color service |
| permanent hair color | synthetic or organic dye that penetrates into the cortex of the hair and does not wash out. |
| pH | refers to the degree of alkalinity or acidity of a solution. neutral (water) is 7; anything below is acidic, anything above is alkaline |
| pigment | the matter that produces a specific color in the hair or anything else. |
| porosity | the hairs ability to absorb liquid or moisture |
| porous | describes condition of the cuticle when it is raised and opened, allowing moisture or liquid to absorb |
| powdered bleach | an alkaline product generally used in off-the-scalp bleach, which has less moisturizers in the formula than creme oil bleach |
| predisposition test | See patch test. |
| prelighten | to first remove excess pigment fromt he hair. In two-step coloring, usually means lifting to one level lighter than target color |
| presoften | prepares resistant hair for better penetration of the hair color formula |
| primary colors | Red, Yellow, Blue. No colors can be mixed to make these. |
| progressive tints | any hair dye that ocntinues processing unil removed, or gets darker with each application. Level system colors are considered nonprogressive. |
| repigmentizing | See filler |
| rinses | temporary colors that coat the cuticle of the hair and normally do not pentrate the cortex |
| secondary colors | colors created by mixing 2 primary colors |
| shade | degree of lightness and dark; it takes appox three shades to equal one level |
| Shade System | the system of permanent haircoloring using shade or tone values as its standard for categorizing |
| single-process | haircoloring procedure that lifts and deposits in one application |
| soap cap | diluting remaining color formula with shampoo to prevent ends darkening with each application |
| strand test | sample formula applied to a small piece of hair to check expected results |
| target color | desired end result of color |
| tertiary colors | color created when a primary is mixed with its neighboring secondary |
| tint | word used to descibe hair color or the process of coloring the hair. refers also to the tonal cast of the hair |
| tonal value | the value assigned to color that allows for description and distinction from another |
| tone on tone (TNT) | corresponding tones used for tinting in layers and color. Created by layering lightening formula over deposit color in random streaks or with foils |
| vegetable dyes | colors derived from plant sources |
| warm zone | the area of the hair shaft that develops tint more easily within 1/2 inch of the scalp and body heat |
Created by:
brittany13