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Define Fabric
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Textiles Test 3
Ch. 12-14
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Define Fabric | a planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or any combination |
| What is Minimum Yardage? | the shortest length of fabric a textile firm will produce or sell to another firm |
| How do you assess quality in a fabric? | inspecting/examining fabric with the eyes or an instrument to identify visible irregularities, defects or flaws |
| Define Woven Fabrics | made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles |
| What are the two basic components found in a woven fabric? | warp yarns and filling yarns |
| Define Warp | group of yarns threaded through the loom in a woven fabric, parallel to the selvage |
| What is another word for warp? | ends |
| Define filling | yarns perpendicular to the selvage that interlace with warp yarns in a woven fabric |
| What are other words used to describe filling? | wefts or picks |
| How do woven yarns vary from one another | in ways they interlace vary |
| How do fabrics get their names? | an earlier end use, town where fabric originated, person who invented it, or person who was associated with that fabric |
| What characteristics are found in woven fabrics? | 2 or more sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles to each other, many diff. interlacing patterns give interest or texture to fabric, yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides, fabrics have grain, fabrics don't stretch much, stable |
| True of False? All of the weaves that are known today have been made for thousands of years. | True! |
| Define loom | machine used to make woven fabrics |
| Parts of the Loom? | warp beam, harness, heddle, shed, shuttles, reed |
| Warp Beam define | metal or wood cylinder on which the warp yarns are wound and is a critical part of the loom |
| Define Harness | part of the loom that forms the weave by controlling the up or down position of warp yarns |
| Define Heddle | A rigid wire in the loom through which a warp yarn is threaded and held in place in a harness |
| Define Shed | Space that is formed between warp yarns when at least one harness is raise and one harness is lowered during weaving |
| Define Shuttles | Part of some looms that is used to cary filling yarns through the shed |
| Define Reed | Part of the loom through which warp yarns are threaded and that is used to push filling yarns into place after they have been inserted in the shed |
| Weaving consists of what 4 steps? | shedding, picking, beating up, and take up |
| Define Shedding | raising one or more harnesses to separate the warp yarns and form a shed |
| Define Picking | passing the shuttle through the shed to insert the filling yarns |
| Beating Up | pushing the filling yarn into place in the fabric with a reed |
| Take Up | winding finished fabric onto the fabric beam |
| What is winding? | process of transferring yarn from one package to another |
| What is creeling? | rack of spools/cones of yarn arranged so that the individual yarns can be removed without tangling or a rack on which warp yarns are wound. |
| The weave structure or pattern in the fabric is determined by three factors: | 1. order in which warp yarns threaded through harness 2. combo of harnesses raise/lowered at a time 4. sequence in which harnesses are lowered/raised |
| Warp and filling yarns have different demands placed on them. What are those differences? | Differ in their structure and fiber type. Warp must withstand the high tensions of the loom and the abrasion of weaving so warp yarns are stronger and more uniform with higher twist. Filling yarns are fancy or special function yarns |
| What is grain? | the geometry/position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns in fabric. A fabric that is on grain has warp yarns parallel to each other and perpendicular to filling yarns that move straight across. |
| Off grain? | creates problems in production/use causes reruns/repeating finishing steps/lower quality and they do not drape properly |
| Skew? | occurs when filling yarns are at an angle other than 90 degrees to the warp |
| Bow? | occurs when filling yarns dip in the center of the fabric |
| How do you conduct a fabric count? | The number of warp/filling yarns per square inch of gray goods. May increase due to shrinkage during dyeing and finishing. |
| How do you write a fabric count? | written with warp number first, or as the total of the two. (ex. 80 x 76=80 by 76 or 156 (total)). |
| What does "balance" mean when talking about woven fabrics? | the ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in a fabric A balanced fabric has one warp yarn for every filling yarn (1:1) |
| Why is looking at balance helpful in woven fabrics? | helpful in recognizing and naming fabrics and in distinguishing the warp direction of a fabric |
| What is selvage? | lengthwise self edge of a fabric. On a loom it is where the filling yarns turn to go back across the fabric. |
| How is fabric width determined? | the loom determines it. Handwoven is narrow commercial is wider |
| What words are used to describe "fabric weight"? | fabric mass. lightweight, top weight, medium weight, heavy weight? |
| Fabric names are based on many factors, such as... | fabric structure, weight, yarn type, yarn balance, and finishes |
| What are the three basic types of weaves? | Plain, Twill and Satin |
| What is a plain weave? | simplest of the three basic weaves, formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately over and under each other. Requires only two harness loom. Least expensive weave to produce. 1/1 weave. |
| Do plain weaves have a technical face or back? | No |
| What is a balanced plain weave? | warp and filling yarns are same size, and same distance apart, so they show equally on the surface. Have a wider range of end uses. Can be made in any weight |
| What is an unbalanced plain weave? | significantly more yarns in one direction than other. |
| Filling Rib? | when you increase the number of warp yarns in a plain woven fabric until the count is 2 times that of filling yarns, create a crosswise ridge known as a filling rib |
| What does it mean to be warp faced? | warp yarns form the surface of the fabric |
| What is a basket weave? | made with two or more adjacent warps controlled by same harness, with two or more fillings placed in the same shed |
| What is a twill weave? | each warp/filling yarn floats accross two or more filling warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left. Forms a distinct diagonal line(wale) |
| What is a float? | position of a yarn that crosses over 2 or more yarns from opposite directions |
| Even sided twills? | best balance of all twill weaves. Exposes an equal amont of warp and filling yarn over each side of a fabric. also known as reversible twills because they look alike on both sides. the direction of twill line differs though. better quality filling yarns u |
| Warp Faced Twills? | a predominance of warp yarns on face of fabric. These fabrics are stronger, more reistant to abrasion and pilling. 2/1 interlacing pattern |
| Satin Weaves? | lustrous, long floats on surface, yarns packed together to produce very high count fabric. No 2 interlacings are adjacent to each other. They resemble twill weaves on back, all fabrics have a face and back that are different. strong, durable, firm, wind r |
| How are Satin weaves made? | each warp yarn floats over 4 filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th filling yarn, It is the 3rd basic weave that can be made on a simple loom requires 5 harnesses. |
| How do fancy fabrics differ from basic fabrics? | design, texture, pattern is inherent and permanent and part of fabric structure, cannot be removed with out dismantling |
| Why is identifying the production technique important? | to be able to see the weave |
| How are fancy weaves and woven figures made in a fabric? | made by changing the interlacing pattern between the design area and the background |
| What is a dobby weave? | made on a dobby loom, they are small figured designs that require fewer than 25 different warp arrangement |
| What is an extra yarn weave? How is it made? | added additional yarn sets, they are wound on a separate beam and threaded into separate heddles |
| What is a pique weave and how is it made? | raised pattern, made with stuffer yarn that creates dimension |
| What is a jacquard weave? How is it made? | warp controlled individually, used as large scale patterns |
| What is a momie weave? How is it made? | pebbled surface, extreme is bark cloth, texture happens because of the weave, made for dresses and drapery |
| What is a leno weave? How is it made? | warp yarns cross, before filling is inserted, used under carpets and bags, spaced apart |
| What is double cloth? | thre or more sets of yarn with two sides that look different, heavier weight |
| What are the three types of woven double cloth fabrics? | double cloth, weave, and faced |
| What is a pile weave? How is it made? | carpets, cut and shave off |
| What is a slack tension weave? | Some tight and some loosened, pucker effect, seersucker is an end result |
| What is a tapestry weave? | complicated, control with filling yarn, very elaborate |
| Define knitting. | formation of fabric by interlooping of one or more sets of yarns |
| What is the unique advantage of knitting? | complete products such as sweaters and hosiery can be produced directly on knit machine |
| True or False? There is a knit counterpart for almost every woven fabric? | True, |
| What is filling knitting or weft knitting? | process in which one yarn or set is carried back and forth and under needles to form a fabric. more horizontally |
| What is warp knitting? | warp beam is set into a machine and yarn sets are intergrouped to form a fabric. more vertically, unique |
| Knitting is done by needles. List the four types of needles used in knitting: | spinning beard, latch, double latch, compound |
| Needles make stitches or lops. Stitch names are based on the way they are made. Stitches may be ______ or ______ depending on how the stitch is made. | open; closed |
| Define fabric density. | by counting the number of stitches, not yarns, in a specific direction |
| What are wales? | vertical columns of stitches in knit fabric |
| What are courses? | horizontal rows |
| What is a gauge or cut and what do they indicate? | indicates the fineness of the stitch. They number of needles in a specific distance on the needle pad. (needles per inch NPI) |
| What is the technical face and technical back of a knit? How are they different? | face is the outer side of fabric knitted, back is the inner side, used as the fashion side of fleece and terry cloth. Face is better finished, finer, more expensive yarns used, floats are shorter and finer and less likey to snag, designs are more obvious |
| Trye of False? Knits are more prone to snagging, sagging and skew? Why or Why not? | TRUE; because of unique interlooped and structure of knits. |
| Which has a higher potential for shrinkage? Woven or knits? | Knits |
| Which has the higher potential to wrinkle during use? Woven or Knit? | Woven |
| What is a run? | occurs when stitches in a wale collapse or pull out, due to stress on loop when yarn is cut |
| What is filling knitting, sometimes called weft knitting? | can be done by hand or machine, hand is yarn is cast onto one needle machine is many needles set |
| Describe the differences between the two types of knitting machines: flat bed and circular? | production is faster with circular warp yarns form full circle to weave tubular fabric; flat bed is knit variety of fabric widths, 100" wide, slower, produce less skew |
| Define knit stich: | first stitch. basic use to produce majority of filling knit fabrics |
| Tuck stitch? | create fancy knit patterned, old stitch is not cleared from needle, 25 stitches |
| Float or miss stitch? | different colored yarns; fancy knit with pattern; no new stich formed at needle, adjacent needles form new stitches |
| Purl or reverse stitch? | forms fabric that looks the same on both sides like the tecnical back of a basic knit fabric, reversible, slow and expensive, special machine uses it |
| What is jersey and it's end uses? | plain, basic fabric of lightweight, to heavy; usually knit on a circular jersey machine, sold in tubular form, cut and sold as flat goods; creases are off grain when pressed. end use= t shirts and tube socks |
| What is a jacquard jersey and how does the pattern develop? | combination of both knit, tuck or float stitches, pattern develops because of different stitch types, yarn texture, color |
| What is true intarsia ? | Intarsia= more complicated pattern, single knit fabric, yarns used to create pattern in the fabric is knit into fabric in that area only. true intarsia designs have a clear pattern on both face and back, |
| What is mock intarsia? | made by knitting, float knitting, heavier weight fabric as a result, with floating yarns on reverse side or shadow patterns |
| How do you tell the difference between a woven terry cloth and a knitted terry cloth? | knit is a loop pile fancy fabric, beach wear use, softer, more absorbent than woven but does not hold its shape well. |
| What is a silver pile knit? | made on a special weft, knit or circular, silver knitting machine, sliver furnishes fiber for deep pile, fake fur is an example |
| What is fashioning? | process of adding/ dropping stitches during knitting to shape the garment |
| What is warp knitting? | process in which yarn sets are inter looped in essentially a lengthwise direction to form a fabric |
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