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Milady Chapter 18

Milady Chapter 18 Chemical Texture Services

Not true acids waves,as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glycerl monthioglycolate(GMTG)as the primary reducing agant.Acid balanceed waves process at room temperture,do not require the added heat of a hair dryer,process more quickly, and produce acid- balanced waves
Have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6,use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent,and process at room temperature. alkaline waves(or cold waves)
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen. amino acids
Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia,and are popular because of thier low odor. ammonia-free waves
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during the relaxing. base cream or protective base cream
Position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. base control
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head(horizontally,vertically,or diagonally)also,the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. base direction
The position of the rod in relation to its base section,and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.Rods can be wrapped on the base,half off base,or off base. base placement
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. base relaxers
Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping,one rod is normally placed on each base section. base sections
Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and aree positioned on equal-sized bases:all base sections are horizontal,with the same length and width as the perm rod. basic perm wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. bookend wrap
Perm wrap similar to actual techique of bricklaying,base sections are offset from each other row by row. bricklay perm wrap
Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. chemical hair relaxing
Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair. chemical texture services
Middle layer of the hair,located directly beneath the cuticle layer.The cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair. cortex
Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod,in overlapping concentric layers. croquignole perms
Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. curvature perm wrap
Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water. disulfide bonds
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under,and one is placed over,the strand of hair being wrapped. double flat wrap
Perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair,one on the top of the other. double-rod(piggyback)technique
Perm activated by an outside heat source,usually a conventional hood-type dryer. endothermic waves
Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. end papers or end wraps
Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing. exothermic waves
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving solutions. glyceryl monothioglycolate
Base control in which the hair the is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees(perpendicular)to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section. half off-base placement
Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges:easliy broken by water,as in wet setting ,or heat,as in thermal styling,and re-form as the hair dries and cools. hydrogen bonds
The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is anacid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates)the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair scalp.Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not i hydroxide neutralization
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13.The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers. hydroxide relaxers
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair;breaks the hairs disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthioline bonds when thr relaxer is rinsed from thr hair. lanthioization
Tool that is usually about 12 inches long a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. loop or circle wave
Perms that work at a low pH,and uses sulfates,sulfites,and bisulfites as a alternative to ammonium thioglycolate. low- pH waves
Innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or the core of the hair. medulla
Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium,potassium,or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen. metal hydroxide relaxers
Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream. no-base relaxers
Conditioners that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing. normalizing lotions
Base contol in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle below perpendiclar to its base section,and the rod is positioned completly off its base. off-base placement
Base control in which the hais wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base. on-base -placement
Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains. peptide bonds or end bonds
Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. polypeptide chains
Relatively weak phsical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges;easily broken by changes in pH,as in permanent waving,and re-form when the pH returns to normal. salt bonds
Disulfide,salt,and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together.Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair. side bonds
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper,placed over the top of the strand of hair beingg wrapped. single flat wrap
Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length.These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape. soft bender rods
Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make exsiting curl larger and looser. soft curl permanent
Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to its length of the rod,which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod,similar to the grip on a tennis racket. spiral perm wrap
Perm rods that are equal in diameter along thier entire length or curling area. staight rods
Colourless liquid with a strong unpleasent odor provides the hydrogen that causes the reducing reaction in permanent waving solutions. thioglycolic acid
Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form. thio neutralization
Use the same ammonium thioglycolate that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH thio relaxers
Perm that uses cysteamine or metrcaptamine instead of ammonium thiglycolate as the primary reducing agent thio free waves
Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process, process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves true acid waves
Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. weave technique
Created by: lois100754



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