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Ocean final
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| What is the variations in beach sand is related to? | to sources of sand. |
| What determines variations in grain size of material, along with wave energy? | beach slope |
| How does sand moves? | It moves on and offshore seasonally in response to changing wave climate, and moves alongshore. |
| What are Littoral Cells and Beach Compartments? | refers to a distinct, self-contained compartment of coastline where beach sand and sediment are naturally circulated, transported, and stored |
| What are the sources for beach sediment? | streams, cliffs & bluffs, offshore shelf, dunes, longshore transport, and artificial nourishment. |
| What are Littoral drifts? | the geological process by which sediments like sand, shingle, and shells are moved along a coast. |
| what is the function of wave energy and angle of wave approach? | Alongshore and onshore and offshore transport of sand |
| What is littoral sand lost to? | Sinks into submarine canyons or dunes offshore, as well as lost to mining. |
| Coarse material beaches equal __. | steeper beaches |
| Fine sand beaches equal __. | flatter beaches |
| Why does sad move along shore? | Due to waves approaching at an angle (littoral drift) |
| Why are directions and rates are important coastal processes? | Its the key to understanding effects of coastal engineering structures on shoreline |
| What do seasonal changes do to waves? | wave energy changes in winter and in summer. |
| Coastlines in general are what? | eroding, accreting, or in equilibrium |
| What are the Tectonic Classification of coasts? | Leading Edge/Collision coasts (Pacific Coast of USA), Trailing edge/passive margins (Atlantic Coast of USA) and Marginal seacoasts |
| Tectonic history of coasts produces variations in: | landforms on and offshore, earthquakes and volcanic activity, width of continental shelf and locations of submarine canyons, rivers: size of basins, and sediment load and yield of rivers |
| What kind of coast does Leading Edges/Active Margins/Collision make? | sea cliffs, coastal mountains, uplifted marine terraces, earthquakes, may be volcanoes. width of continental shelf and locations of submarine canyons, rivers: size of basins, and sediment load and yield of rivers |
| What kind of coast does Trailing Edges/Passive Margins make? | no mountains or cliffs, sand spits/barrier islands, no earthquakes, wide shelf, depositional coastlines. |
| What is climate change from both natural and anthropogenic causes? | Natural: short term solar cycles, volcanic eruptions, plate tectonics and Earth’s orbital variations Anthropogenic: greenhouse gas production |
| What are the year cycles of the orbits? | -wobble on axis- ~26,000-year cycles -tilt of axis of rotation- ~42,000-year cycle -eccentricity of orbit- ~100,000-year cycle |
| •Factors influencing variations in coastline morphology: | Tectonic history, activity sediment supply, presence/absence of a protective beach, recent sea level change, resistance of materials wave energy/ direction, climate and weathering frequency organic activity, human activity/engineering |
| What are the coastal erosion processes? | hydraulic impact, abrasion, solution/weathering, biological activity, terrestrial processes, and human effects. |
| What are the variables in shoreline erosion? | rock resistance, structural weaknesses (joints/fractures/faults), wave exposure, beach presence or absence, storm frequency, tidal range, human impacts. |
| What are hazardous coastal environments for human habitation? | Eroding cliffs, the back beach, and sand dunes. |
| What are the possible solutions or alternatives to areas undergoing shoreline erosion? | 1. do nothing/wait and see 2. sand nourishment - soft approach 3. armoring or protection- hardening the shoreline 4. managed retreat or relocate structure |
| What must armoring must withstand? | battering, overtopping, undermining, and outflanking |
| What must seawalls and revetments have well defined impacts on? | Visual effects, loss of beach area-placement loss, loss of sand supply to beach formerly provided by eroding bluff or cliff, reduction of beach access and passive erosion & active erosion |
| what are the changes ocean conditions around Pacific Basin Pacific Decadal Oscillations (PDO)? | on 20 to 30-year cycle, based on ocean temperature differences. |
| What are the significant short-term effects caused by El Niño (every 3-8 years) and La Niña? | sea level, wave height, water temperatures, which influence weather, rainfall, storm approach and distribution of marine organisms. |
| What are the El Niño effects in the Americas? | Physical and terrestrial effects –storm waves, high rainfall, floods, erosion, landslides in Americas; |
| What are the El Niño effects in Australia and south Asia? | droughts and forest fires |
| what initiate El Niño events? | large-scale shifts in Pacific winds and waters |
| What do the Milankovitch cycles do? | produces global heating and cooling, which have feedback loops which combined can produce Ice Ages and warmer or interglacial periods. |
| Where do we find records of climate change? | - Ocean drilling-back ~65,000,000 years - Ice cores: back 850,000 years - Dendrochronology- tree ring studies ~5000 years, - Deep-sea corals ~3000-5000 years, - Tide Gauges: back 150 years - Satellite altimetry: back 30 years |
| Sea level changes can be __ and __. | absolute (global) and relative (local) |
| How are most sea level changes recorded? | climatic in origin |
| Due to regional tectonic setting, relative sea level may be __. | rising rapidly (New Orleans) due to Mississippi delta sinking, falling (Alaska) due to glacial rebound of land (isostasy) or rising slowly at global rate (San Francisco) |
| what do the Milankovitch cycles Feedbacks include? | sea ice or land ice melts- land or ocean absorbs more heat than ice, which reflects heat. As ocean warms, it can hold less carbon dioxide, which enters atmosphere and expands greenhouse effect, making it warmer |
| What happens in the Milankovitch cycles as permafrost thaws with warming? | methane and carbon dioxide released, which adds to greenhouse gases in atmosphere, making Earth warmer. |
| For the past century from averaging tide gages worldwide what has been the historic global sea level rise? | 1.7 mm/year |
| What are El Niños and what effects do the have? | hurricanes, typhoons and tsunamis and other shorter term events that have very significant short-term effects on sea level and coastal damage |
| What is Global Warming? | agreement on warming; magnitude and rate of changes unresolved but causes have been determined, primarily greenhouse gases with carbon dioxide, methane and nitrous oxides being the main constituents. |
| What do future rates of sea-level rise depend on? | Rates of greenhouse gas emissions. |
| What is very important regarding various energy resources? | Changing societal dependence on various energy resources |
| fossil fuels oil/gas and coal form? | oil and gas - marine coal - terrestrial |
| What are the Oil and Gas conditions for the formation of oil and gas in the sea? | Organic matter reservoir rock: preserving organic matter so no decomposition/increased temperature and pressure cap rock/structure/trap |
| What are the different sources of pollutants? | natural and human |
| What are the potential problems associated with offshore oil? | Oil Pollution from natural seepage and drilling + tankers spills |
| What are the different kinds of renewable Ocean energy? | Wind, tides, waves, current and ocean thermal energy conversion |
| What are the impacts of varying types and levels of natural pollutant? | acute, chronic, synergistic, biological magnification |
| What are the impacts of varying types and levels of human made pollutant? | cellular, organism, community, population |
| What does domestic sewage and solid waste consist of? | oxidizable organics, nutrients, chemical constituents, virus and bacteria |
| What do Industrial/Agricultural plants discharge? | heavy metals (lead and mercury), toxic chemicals, chlorofluorocarbons, chlorinated hydrocarbons and other organics (DDT, PCBs) and pharmaceuticals |
| what are the impacts of Electrical Power Generation - thermal effluent? | Nuclear power and its release of radiation, radioactive waste storage, and concerns Primarily in Fukushima Daiichi, Japan |
| What is isostasy? | glacial rebound of land. |
| Climate change primarily related to? | cyclical changes (Milankovitch cycles) in earth’s orbit. |
| In the last 24 years what does satellite altimetry indicate the global sea level rise has increased to? | 3.3 mm/yr. |
| What are the greenhouse gas emissions sources that cause rates of sea-level to rise? | fossil fuel burning, transportation, industrial/agricultural, etc. |
| What are the levels of domestic wastewater treatment? | primary, secondary, and tertiary |
| What are the domestic sewage and solid waste effects on the marine environment? | Sewage overloads coastal waters with excess nutrients and pathogens, triggering harmful algal blooms and suffocating coral reefs. Solid waste entraps wildlife, starves animals via ingestion, and degrades into toxic microplastics. |
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