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Chemical Texture
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Name the layers of the hair | Medulla, cortex, & cuticle |
| The natural pH of hair is between _______ and _______ | 4.5 and 5.5 |
| Chemical solutions are designed to _______ the pH of hair | Raise the pH |
| The first diagram is of amino acids linked together with __________ | Peptide bonds (end bonds) |
| The bonds that are changed by pH are called ___________ | Salt bonds (ionic bonds) |
| The bonds that are changed by heat or water are called ___________ | Hydrogen bonds |
| The bonds that are changed by permanent waving are ____________ | Disulfide bonds |
| Wrapping the hair on a permanent wave rod is an example of a _________ | Physical change |
| Applying permanent waving solution to the hair is an example of a __________ change | Chemical change |
| Alkaline permanent wave solutions cause this change by __________ and __________ the hair. | Softening and swelling |
| Please name the 2 most popular reducing agents. | Thioglycolic acid (thio) and ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) |
| The chemistry of permanent waving/reduction reaction | 1. A disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms 2. Permanent wave solution breaks a disulfide bonds by adding a hydrogen atom 3. The sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen atoms their attachment to each other 4. the polypeptide chains can form into their new |
| Low-pH waves pH | 6.5-7.0 |
| Thio-free wave pH | 7.0-9.6 |
| Acid-balanced wave pH | 7.8-8.2 |
| True acid wave pH | 4.5-7.0 |
| Alkaline/cold wave pH | 9.0-9.6 |
| Ammonia-free wave pH | 7.0-9.6 |
| Exothermic wave | 9.0-9.6 |
| What is the main ingredient in a true acid or acid balanced wave? | Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) |
| What 3 components must all acid waves have | Permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer |
| Most of the acid waves found in today's salons have a pH between ________ and _______ | 7.8 and 8.2 |
| What type of permanent wave creates a chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing time? | Exothermic waves |
| What type of permanent wave is heated from an outside source example a hood dryer? | Endothermic waves |
| What 2 chemicals and their abbreviations are used to create ammonia-free waves? | Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP) and Monoethanolamine (MEA) |
| What chemicals are used to make a thio-free wave for the primary reducing agent? | Cysteamine or Mercaptamine |
| Low pH waves that use sulfate, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ATG are not very popular even though they have been used for years. Why? | Permanents based on sulfites are very weak and do not provide a firm curl, especially on resistant hair |
| Low pH waves are usually marketed as _________ or alternative waves | Body waves |
| Selecting the proper permanent wave is very important after a thorough consultation you will also need to consider your clients | Hair type, condition of the hair, and desired results |
| List 4 reasons why you would perform a permanent wave test-curl | Correct processing time, Checking the condition of the hair, is the client satisfied with the results, How much color would be removed if working on color-treated hair. |
| Name each type of end-paper technique used in a permanent wave service? | 1. Double flat wrap 2. Single flat wrap 3. Bookend wrap |
| On-base placement | base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base |
| Off-base placement | base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below center of the base section |
| Half off-base placement | base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees of perpendicular to its base |
| Name two different permanent wave wrapping techniques, and give a brief description? | Spiral wrap, wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes hair to spiral along the length of the rod Croquignole wrap overlapping the hair in layers from the ends to the scalp, looser wave pattern. |
| Please fill in the missing steps for Thio neutralization | Gently blot the hair dry with a towel, check for moisture Apply neutralizer, hydrogen peroxide Oxygen molecule attaches to the sulfur atoms and forms a water molecule and is rinsed away causing the hair to reform the shape of the side bonds and form |
| List 2 reasons why a client would like a partial permanent wave | Clients who desire lift and volume and certain areas long hair on the top and crown but short hair on the side. |
| How do you test the hair for metallic salt | In glass or plastic bowl Mix 1 ounce of 20 volume peroxide And 20 drops of 28% ammonia Immerse approximately 20 strands of hair in the solution for 30 minutes. |
| If metallic salts are present the hair will | The hair will lighten rapidly The solution may get hot Give off an unpleasant odor |
| Metallic salts present, this indicates what to you as a stylist? | Do not proceed with the service. |
| What is the pH of a hydroxide relaxer? | 11.5 to 14 |
| Name two of the three metal hydroxide relaxers | Sodium hydroxide and lithium hydroxide |
| What elements make up hydroxide | Oxygen and a hydrogen atom |
| What is a base cream: | Also known as protective cream, oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. |
| Explain the difference between Base and No-base relaxers. | Base relaxers are harsher and require a base cream in order to protect the scalp. No-base relaxers are less harsh and do not need a base cream. |
| Explain neutralization. | Stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form. |
| Explain the term normalizing lotion, and explain how they are used | Normalizing lotion is an acidic product used to restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer. |
| When performing a Keratin treatment, how hot is the flat iron? | 450 degrees |
| How long does the keratin treatment usually take on average in the salon? | 2 hours or more depending on how dense the hair is. |
| What chemical do many Keratin treatments contain that release vapors into the air? | Formaldehyde |
| Are Keratin treatments a permanent or semi-permanent for of straightening and why? | Keratin treatments eliminate 95% of the curl and frizz and is washed away over time, making it semi-permanent. Lasts 3 to 5 months |
| Curl re-forming is a ________ step process. | 2 step process |
| The first part of the process is to straighten the hair with a ________ based relaxer. | Thio-based relaxer |
| The second part of the process is to curl the hair on _________ _________ using a __________ permanent wave. | Perm rods; Chemical |
| The third step is to _________ the soft curl permanent. | Neutralize |
| Active ingredient of Alkaline/Cold wave | Ammonium thioglycolate |
| Active ingredient of exothermic wave | Ammonium thioglycolate |
| Active ingredient of True acid wave | Glyceryl monothioglycolate |
| Active ingredient of Acid-balanced wave | Glyceryl monothioglycolate |
| Active ingredient of Ammonia free wave | 1. monoethanolamine 2. aminomethylpropanol |
| Active ingredient of Thio-free wave | mercaptamine/ cystamine |
| Active ingredient of Low-pH waves | Ammonium sulfate/ ammonium bisulfate |
| How alkaline/cold wave processes | Room temperature |
| How exothermic waves process | exothermic |
| How true acid waves process | endothermic |
| How acid-balanced wave processes | Room temperature |
| How ammonia free waves process | Room temperature |
| How thio-free waves process | Room temperature |
| How low-ph waves process | endothermic |
| Recommended hair type for alkaline/cold waves | Coarse. thick, or resistant |
| Recommended hair type for exothermic wave | Coarse, thick, or resistant |
| Recommended hair type for true acid wave | Extremely porous or very damaged |
| Recommended hair type for Acid-balanced wave | Porous or damaged hair |
| Recommended hair type for Ammonia free wave | Porous to normal |
| Recommended hair type for Thio-free wave | Porous to normal |
| Recommended hair type for Low-pH waves | Normal, fine, or damaged |
| Sodium Hydroxide | pH 12.5-13.5. Lye Relaxer Effective for extremely curly hair May cause scalp irritation and damage hair. |
| Lithium Hydroxide Potassium Hydroxide | Very effective for extremely curly hair |
| Guanidine Hydroxide | pH 13-13.5 |
| Ammonium Thioglycolate | Strong unpleasant ammonia smell: repeated use may dehydrate hair |
| Ammonium sulfite/ Ammonium bisulfate | pH 6.5-8.5 Low-pH relaxer. no-lye relaxer less damaging to the hair does not sufficiently relax extremely curly hair |
Created by:
cweeks01