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Chapter 20
Chemical texture services
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| acid balanced waves | Permanent waves that have a 7.0 pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hairdryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than a true acid wave |
| alkaline waves | (cold wave)has a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat |
| amino acids | compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur. |
| ammonia-free waves | perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia so there is very little odor associated with their use. |
| ammonium thoiglycolate (ATG) | active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. |
| base control | position of the tool in relation to its base section determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
| base cream | (protective base cream) oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. |
| base direction | angle at which the rod is placed on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally) also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. |
| base placement | refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section. |
| base relaxer | Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. |
| base sections | subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally place on each base section. |
| basic permanent wrap | (straight set wrap) perm wrapping pattern i which all the rods within a panel move in he same direction and are position on equal sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod. |
| bookend wrap | perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like and envelope. |
| bricklay permanent wrap | perm wrap similar to bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair. |
| chemical hair relaxing | a process of service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. |
| chemical texture services | hair services that causes a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair. |
| concave rods | perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. |
| croquignole perm wrap | Perm in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. |
| curvature permanent wrap | Perm wrap in which parting and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. |
| disulfide bonds | strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. |
| double flat wrap | perm wrap in which one end paper is place under and another is place over the strand of hair being wrapped. |
| double rod wrap | (piggyback) a wrap technique for extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction. |
| end papers | (end wraps) absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. |
| endothermic waves | perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a hood dryer. |
| exothermic waves | create a reaction that heats up the perm solution using an activation and speeds up the processing time |
| glyceryl monothioglycolate (CMTG) | main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. |
| half off-base placement | base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees of perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section. |
| hydrogen bonds | weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges, they are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling) and they re-form as the hair dries or cools. |
| hydroxide neutralization | an acid-alkali neutralization reaction the neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. |
| hydroxide relaxers | very strong alkalis with a pH over 13 the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers. |
| keratin proteins | long coiled polypeptide chains |
| lanthionization | process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond. |
| loop rod | (circle rod) tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. |
| low-pH waves | perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate |
| metal hydroxide relaxers | Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen. |
| no-base relaxers | relaxers that do not require the application of a protective base cream. |
| normalizing lotions | conditioners with a acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH before the final neutralizing shampoo. |
| off-base placement | base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below center of the base section, so the rod is positioned completely off its base. |
| on-base placement | base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base. |
| peptide bonds | (end bonds) chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form polypeptide chains. |
| permanent waving | A two step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change cased by wrapping the hair on perm rods; then the hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer. |
| polypeptide chains | long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. |
| side bonds | disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. |
| single flat wrap | perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped. |
| soft bender rods | tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. |
| soft curl permanent | A thio based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves. |
| spiral perm wrap | Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod similar to the stripes on a candy cane. |
| straight rods | perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. |
| thioglycolic acid | perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. |
| thio neutralization | Stops the action of a Permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in the new curly form. |
| thio relaxers | uses the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10). |
| thio-free waves | perm that uses and ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine. |
| true acid waves | Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process, they process more slowly than alkaline waves, and they do not usually produce a firm a curl as alkaline waves. |
| viscosity | the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows |
| weave technique | wrapping technique that uses zigzag parting to divide base areas. |
Created by:
nicc0le