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3.03
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Stitch length: | the length of each stitch sewn by a sewing machine. Changing the stitch length adjusts the feed dogs, which controls how much fabric is pulled through with each stitch. |
| Backstitching: | stitch backward to the edge of the fabric to secure the ends of a row of stitching. Continue sewing the seam to the other end and backstitch ½ inch from the end. |
| Standard stitching: | the basic straight stitch used by every sewing machine for normal seams and joining two pieces of fabric together. This basic straight stitch length may change to suit different weights and types of fabric but is commonly 10 to 12 stitches per inch |
| Understitching: | a line of standard stitches that are sewn close to the edge of a facing, 1/8 inch from the seam line on the right side of the fabric,your garment without any stitches showing on the outside. It comes in especially handy when sewing around a neckline. |
| Basting: | a technique of temporarily holding layers of fabrics together, by using longer stitches – 6-8 stitches per inch, until the fabric layers are permanently stitched. Basting is sometimes also called tacking. |
| Standard seam stitching: | 5/8 inch plain seam line sewn to join two pieces of fabric together |
| Reinforcement stitching: | a short stitch – 15- 20 stitches per inch, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other, used to add strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as an armhole, crotch and corners. |
| Topstitching: | make a row of continuous stitches on the top or right side of a garment or other article as a decorative feature. |
| Stay-stitching: | a line of stitching sewn around an edge (such as an armhole) of a garment being made in order to prevent the cloth from stretching. |
| Edge stitching: | a row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, normally ⅛” or less from the edge. It provides a crisp edge for facings, collars, pockets or any situation where you want a tight, professional finish along a seamed edge. |
| Zigzag stitching: | a geometric side to side stitch used for seam finishing, button hole creation, decorative sewing and sewing stretch fabric. |
| Stitch-in-the-ditch: | a technique which involves sewing down the channel of an existing seam (the "ditch") to secure pieces of a garment in on the outside. By sewing down the seam line in matching thread to your fabric, the stitches are hidden and invisible to the outside. |
| Specialty stitches: | most machines have a variety of these specialty stitches that add a decorative aspect to sewn garments or items. |
| Seam: | Row or line of stitching resulting in holding two layers of fabric together. |
| Plain seam: | the simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any item. A plain seam is defined as any seam that attaches two pieces of fabric together with the wrong sides facing. |
| Flat-felled seam: | a strong seam with two lines of stitching showing on the right side that is produced by folding one raw edge under the other and stitching it flat or slip-stitching it on the wrong side |
| French seam: | a strong seam stitched on both sides of the fabric to enclose all raw edges. |
| Seam Finishes: | Any method that stitches or trims seam allowances to prevent fraying, improve strength and apparel appearance. |
| Pinked and stitched seam finish: | the seam allowances are trimmed with pinking shears. Pinking shears give an attractive edge; y if the garment is laundered. To truly prevent raveling, add a row of straight stitching just shy of the pinked edge. |
| Turned-and-stitched seam finish: | a quick finish that will keep your raw edge tucked under and out of sight. Fold the edge of your seam allowance under 1/8 inch, press, and stitch close to the folded edge. This finish is best for light to medium weight wovens, course weaves, and tweeds |
| Machine Zig-zagged seam finish: | using a zigzag function on your straight stitch machine and is stitched over the edge of the raw edges to prevent fraying. |
| Overlock (Serged) seam finish: | a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually he edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines being called sergers in North America), though some are made without cutters. |
| Trimming: | refers to reducing a seam allowance to prevent bulk. Seam allowances of enclosed seams should be trimmed to an even width, usually ¼ inch. The corner of a seam should be trimmed diagonally to remove extra thickness when the corner is turned. |
| Grading: | the process of turning a standard seam allowance into layered tiers of fabric. The result is less bulk, which means a smoother finish from the right side. Grading a seam removes bulk and allows the seam to sit a little flatter on your finished garment. |
| Clipping: | cutting slits equal distance apart and equal depths into the seam allowance. This is done on all seams with an inside orote a smooth finish. Clipping allows the concave curve to stretch out and adjust when it is matched up with its convex counterpart. |
| Notching: | similar to clipping, but insty wedge-shaped pieces of fabric from the seam allowances. Notching is used on convex curves and exterior corners because the seam allowance is larger than the space it will be turned into. |
| Fabric Easing: | a method of taking the excess length of one fabric and trying to evenly distribute that excess throughout the length of the shoam with no puckering and the edges of the fabric pieces should be aligned. |
| Gathering: | the act of bundling up a portion of fabric to fit onto a smaller, amount of fullness you want to achieve. Gathering is most commonly found along the waistline, sleeve cuffs, shoulder seams, yokes and ruffles |
| Single-Pointed Dart: | most common dart mostly used on skirts at waist and trousers and blouses at bust. The single dart is narrow at one end and wide at the other. With the triangular shape of an angle with single dart point and two dart lines. |
| Double-Pointed Dart: | also called fish-eyed dart and body dart. Mostly this darts is used for jackets and dresses that fit at waist. Double pointed dart is sharp and narrow at both the ends. |
| Applied Casing: | an enclosure, fabric tunnel, typically around the waistline, made to enclose a drawstring or elastic created by folding over ation. The end products in clothing, but they can also be seen at the top of totes and clutches. |
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