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Haircutting
Cosmetology
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Reference points | surface of the head change: ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex |
| Parietal ridge | widest area across head |
| Occipital bone | bone that protrudes at base of skull |
| Apex | highest point of head |
| Four corners | corners of head |
| Crown | area between apex and back of head |
| Nape | neck |
| Bang | fringe |
| Lines | thin continuous marks; guidelines: |
| Stationery | does not move (0 degree) |
| Traveling | moves as haircut progress (layers) |
| Perimeter | guide outer line |
| Interior | inside guide |
| Horizontal | parallel to horizon, builds weight |
| Vertical | up & down; removes weight |
| Diagonal | slanting or sloping; creates fullness |
| Weight line | is a visible line in a haircut |
| Sections | uniform working areas |
| Overdirection | hair combed away from natural position |
| Cross-checking | part hair opposite direction to be check |
| Elevation | projection/lifting; tension – pressure applied |
| Palming shears | thumb, index, middle |
| Razor cutting | softens the end; feather; held at a 45-degree angle |
| Shears | blunt; straight lines |
| Cast shears | made from a mold; less expensive |
| Forged shears | made of working metal hammered into shape; higher price, bur last longer |
| Clippers | taper & fades |
| Trimmers | smaller than clippers; known as edgers, clean up neckline & ears |
| Texturizing shears | to remove excess bulk; more teeth = less hair; less (larger) teeth (notching shears) more hair |
| Effilating/Slithering | process of thinning hair to graduated lengths with blade half open |
| Sliding cutting | Cutting the hair with the fingers & shears gliding along edge of hair |
| Point cutting | performed on the ends of hair, using the tips or points of the shears |
| Cutting below fingers | blunt, heavy graduated cuts |
| Cutting palm to palm | vertical lines |
| Cutting over fingers | creates layers |
| Never cut past | 2nd knuckle |
| Solid form | 0 degree; one length cut, blunt |
| Graduated form | wedge, 45 degrees, beveled, stacked |
| Increase layered | 180 degrees; long layers, shag |
| Uniform Layered Form | 90 degrees; layers |