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DT Timber
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Main softwoods | Redwood, western red cedar, parana pine, whitewood (spruce) |
| Main hardwoods | Beech, ash, elm, oak, mahogany, teak, balsa |
| Main manufactured boards | Plywood, flexiply, marine ply, MDF, moisture resistant MDF, flame retardant MDF, blockboard, chipboard |
| Redwood properties | Straight grain, knotty, easy to work, finishes well, durable, widely available, cheap. Most used softwood in UK. |
| Western red cedar properties | Resists insect attack, weather, and dry rot due to natural preservative oils. Lightweight, soft, knot-free, straight-grained, durable. Attractive surface. |
| Parana pine properties | Hard, straight grain, knot-free, ~strong, easy to work, ~durable |
| Whitewood properties | Easy to work, ~strong, resists splitting. Can contain resin pockets. |
| Beech properties | Very tough, hard, straight, and close grained. Withstands wear and shocks. Polishes well. Liable to warp. |
| Ash properties | Wide-grained, tough, very flexible. Finishes well. |
| Elm | Tough, flexible, durable, water resistant, liable to warp. Difficult to work due to cross-grain. |
| Oak | Heavy, hard, tough. Open grain, finishes well, good outdoors. Tannic acid corrodes steel screws, leaving blue stain. |
| Mahogany | Easy to work, wide boards, polishes well. Can be difficult to work due to interlocking grain. |
| Teak | Hard, durable. Natural oils resist moisture, fire, acids, alkalis. Straight grain, works well, very expensive. |
| Balsa | Very soft and lightweight. Coarse, open grain. |
| Plywood | Very strong and tough for its weight. Stable under moisture and temperature changes. Cuts easily but can splinter. |
| Flexiply | (veneers glued parallel with thin middle). Easier to cut than plywood, but still splinters easily. |
| MDF | Easily machined and painted/stained. Smooth, even surface. |
| Moisture resistant MDF | Green |
| Flame retardant MDF | Pink or blue |
| Blockboard | (central layer is strips of timber). Resists warping and easy to cut and finish. Edges difficult to clean, so softwood edging strips often used. |
| Chipboard/particle board | Easy to cut. Lightweight and weak. Edges need covering. Expands when moist. |
| 2 ways to saw timber | Plain sawn, quarter sawn |
| Eco materials | Environmentally friendly material |
| Main drawer standard components | Runners, locks (cam = basic, magnetic = hidden, hasp and staple = old shed), catches (magnetic, spring, ball, toggle = fancy briefcase) |
| Butt joint | Very weak - strengthened with corner pieces. Ends of both put together. |
| Dovetail | Very resistant to being pulled apart. Comb with dover shaped fingers. |
| Mitre | Quite weak, so reinforced. 45 degree connnections. |
| Housing | Can be used with manufactured boards. Channel cut into timber and other piece inserted into channel. |
| Mortise and tenon | Strong. Hole and stick. |
| Bridle | Similar to mortise and tenon, but stronger and less attractive. Mortise and tenon if hole extends up to edge. |
| Corner halving | Reinforced. Half lap twice. |
| Biscuit | Can be used with manufactured boards |
| Steps of getting timber | Felling, conversion, seasoning |
| What are stays? | The metal rods that hold chests open. |
| Marking out tools | Marking knife (thinner than pencil), marking gauge (spur parallel to edge), cutting gauge (blade), mortise gauge (2 spurs), mitre square (45 and 135 degrees), sliding bevel (adjustable with protractor) |
| Cross-cut saw and ripsaw | Cross-cut goes across the grain, ripsaw goes along |
| Kerfing | Trenches in wood bent across |
| Which way to sand | With grain |
| Cross-halving | Corner halving part way through each piece. |
| Best screw type generally | Countersunk so it doesn't stick out. Countersink drill bits used to make the shape. |
| General bending techniques | Steam bending - soften wood first, laminating - glued together and held in former until dry, vacuum pressing - vacuum used to hold veneers in place while glue dries. Use formers to hold them in place. |
| Seasoning | Doesn't remove all moisture - finds natural equilibrium |
| Drilling | Always use a jig, even with a pillar drill |
| Size of most manufactured boards | 8ft x 4ft. 1 - 30 mm thick |
| Wood screws | They bite into the wood, so stronger than nails, but that makes them less effective on manufactured boards |
| KDF | Knock-down fittings. No glue. Corner block, metal T on perpendicular planks meeting, L shapes on corners where perpendicular planks meet (either on top or on sides). Ikea style. Easy to put together. Better for manufactured than most normal wood joints |
| Felling and conversion | FSC (know how to draw it). Felled trees cut into manageable lengths. Bark removed. Remaining cut roughly into planks/veneers/boards. Either plain sawn (e.g. for MDF) or PAR (planed all round). PAR has smaller standard size. |
| When talking about production of MDF | Focus most on felling, conversion, and seasoning. Then broken down into particles/fibres. Mixed with any colours or chemicals for water resist/flame retardant. Press together with adhesive until set. Cut to stock form with circular saws (often 8ft x 4ft) |
| Bamboo | Takes about 5 years to grow |
| CNC lathes | Need to be fed a square cross-section (with corners cut off) with centres marked on for the centres to connect. |
Created by:
Pyrogearos