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Chemical texturizing
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Preliminary strand test | Performed as part of consultation...test how hair will respond to chemical application. |
| Permanent waving | Add curl and wave to straight hair |
| Chemical relaxing | Straightens curly and wavy hair |
| Curl reformation | Reduces curly hair texture |
| Keratin straightening | Eliminates frizziness from wavy and curly hair |
| Occupational disease | Illness caused by overexposure to certain products and ingredients |
| Trichology | The study of hair, the disorders and diseases and care |
| Amino acids | Protein building blocks of hair linked together To form protein fibers |
| Peptide bond / end bond | Very Strong bond that creates a spiral chain effect |
| Polypeptide chains | Spiraling chain of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds |
| Side bonds/ cross bonds | Connect polypeptide chains side by side and responsible for hairs strength and elasticity |
| Disulfide bonds | Strong chemical side bonds that can only be broken by chemical solutions |
| Salt bonds | Weak side bonds broken by changes in ph-potential hydrogen...reformed when ph is restored |
| Hydrogen bonds | Weak side bonds broken by heat and water..reformed when hair cools and dries |
| Physical mixture | 2 or more types of matter are blended together but not chemically altered |
| Miscible | Substance able to be mixed |
| Immiscible | Substance is not able to be mixed with another substance |
| Potential hydrogen (ph) | The measure of acidity or alkaline of a solution |
| Ph scales | 0-14...0-6.9=acidic (red) 7.0= neutral...7.1-14=alkaline (blue)...natural ph is 4.5-5,5...a acidic products tighten and harden...alkaline products soften and swell hair |
| Protective cream | Place around hairline |
| Neutralizer | Chemical solution that Stops waving process |
| Thio neutralization | The process of stopping waving process and rebuilding hair bonds |
| Alkaline waves/ cold waves(type of perm wave) | Processed without the application of heat...high in alkalinity, vary in ph-potential hydrogen 8.5-9.5...strongest type of wave that is best used on resistant hair |
| True acid waves(type of perm wave) | Processed with heat.,,permanent wave...ph is 4.5-7 |
| Acid balance waves(type of perm wave) | Acid balance waves are processed without heat and have ph of 7.0 to 8.2...they are permanent waves |
| Glyceryl monothioglycolate | Main active ingredient is true acid waves using glycerine |
| Base direction(perm rod placement) | Position of the perm rod within the section...vertical,horizontal,or diagonal |
| Base section(perm rod placement) | Subsections located within a large panel section. Hair divided into smaller subsections that hold 1 perm rod each |
| Base control/base placement(perm rod placement) | Position of perm rod...determined by angle hair is wrapped |
| Croquignole wrap(wrapping technique) | Hair is wrapped inward toward scalp in overlapping layers |
| Spiral wrap-(wrapping technique) | Wrap the hair at an angle....coiling effect |
| Double flat wrap(placement of end papers) | Hair placed between 2 end papers..good for long ,layered and textured hair..,hair is evenly distributed between papers |
| Book end wrap (placement of end papers) | Requires 1 paper...folded in half like a book...hair is placed in the fold |
| Single flat wrap (placement of papers) | 1 paper...used with double or book end wrap...placed on remaining exposed hair |
| Endothermic waves (types of perm waves) | Processed with heat...hood dryer or heat processor |
| Endothermic waves(types of perm waves) | Processed by chemical reaction that releases heat...self heating |
| Ammonia free waves | Uses an ingredient other than ammonia.,(thio free and ammonia free waves are examples) |
| Bender rods -concave rods -straight rods- loop rods -sponge rods | Flexible rods that are bent-small diameter in center-even diameters -used to create spiral curls,long plastic rods bent to form a circle foam rods resulting in soft end curl |
| Basic perm wrap/straight set wrap (wrapping patterns) | 9 block controlled sections...hair is placed in rectangular subsections |
| Curvature perm wrap (wrapping pattern) | Parting that follow the shape of the guest head or follow the directions of a hair style. |
| Bricklayer perm wrap | Perm rods are placed in a staggered pattern |
| Weave perm wrap | Uses zigzag partings...hair parted in subsections |
| Piggyback perm wrap | Used with hair longer than 10-12 inches...wrap on 1 rod mid strand to scalp...then remains hair wrapped around 2 rod |
| Porosity | Ability of hair to absorb liquid |
| Elasticity | Capability of hair to stretch and return to previous position...wet hair 50% dry 20% |
| Hydroxide neutralization (chemical relaxer) | Neutalizes remaining alkaline and restore ph |
| Neutralizing (chemical relaxer) | Restores disulfide bonds and helps remove relaxer |
| Preliminary test curl | Determines the required processing and makes sure the desired curl has been achieved. |
| Thioglycolic acid | The main ingredient in alkaline waves/cold waves...which are processed without heat |
| Alkaline waves lotion | Strongest type of permanent wave lotion and is best used on resistant hair. Cuticle scales are lying flat and compact. |
| Acid waves | Contain glyceryl monothioglycolate which is the main ingredient in acid waves and true acid waves lotions. It has a low ph.. |
| Acid balance waves | Processed without heat..ph between7-8.2 |
| Exothermic waves | Processed by a chemical reaction that releases heat |
| Hydroxide neutralization | Neutralizes any remaining alkaline residue left by the hydroxide relaxer and helps restore ph of the hair |
| Viscosity | Thickness or thinness of a liquid. |
| Hydroxide relaxers | Have a high alkaline content higher than 12,.,strongest relaxer...hair swells 2x it's size. |
| Sodium hydroxide (lye) | Non drying..strong alkaline ingredient |
| Potassium hydroxide | Dry hair out...marketed as no mix no lye |
| Guanidine hydroxide | Requires mixing 2 products...advertised as no lye for sensitive skin |
| Base relaxers(lye) | Require protective base cream...usually too strong to be applied without base cream |
| No base relaxers | Do not require base cream...has slightly lower ph |
| THioglycolate relaxers..slower processing times | Thio relaxers have the added ingredient of ammonia which processes the hair just like a permanent wave |
| Lanthionization | Process of removing 1 sulfur atom and replacing with a disulfide bonds. Neutralizing shampoo used |
| Normalizing lotions | Have acidic ph that restores the hair natural ph after a hydroxide relaxers and prior to shampooing. |
| Neutralizing shampoos | Help to remove remaining chemicals and restore hair to natural acidic ph |
| Keratin smoothing | Contains formaldehyde...aldehyde and formaldehyde free....provide straighter long lasting results..pungent gas,colorless,flammable |
| Cysteine1 and cystine2 | 1.amino acid joined with another amino acid 2. Amino acid that joins 2 peptide strands |
| Glyceryl | Odorless,colorless and miscible in water |
| Glycerin | Ingredient used in perm wave lotion |