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Cosmetology
Ch. 20 Vocab
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Acid-Balanced Waves | Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves. |
| Alkaline Waves | Also known as cold waves; they have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonia thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature with the addition of heat. |
| Amino Acids | Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur. |
| Ammonia-Free Waves | Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use. |
| Ammonia Thioglycolate (ATG) | Active ingredient of reducing agent in alkaline permanents. |
| Base Control | Position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
| Base Cream | Also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. |
| Base Direction | Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. |
| Base Placement | Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
| Base Relaxers | Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. |
| Base Sections | Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally paced on each base sections. |
| Basic Permanent Wrap | Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping material in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod. |
| Bookend Wrap | Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. |
| Brick-lay Permanent Wrap | Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair. |
| Chemical Hair Relaxing | A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. |
| Chemical Texture Services | Hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair. |
| Concave Rods | Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. |
| Croquignole Perm Wrap | Perm in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. |
| Curvature Permanent Wrap | Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. |
| Disulfide Bonds | Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. |
| Double Flat Wrap | Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped. |
| Double-Rod Wrap | Also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction. |
| End Papers | Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. |
| Endothermic Waves | Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer. |
| Exothermic Waves | Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing. |
| Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG) | Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. |
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