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Chemical Texturizing
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Preliminary Strand Test | Performed as a part of your Guest consultation to test how the hair will respond to the chemical application. |
| Amino Acids | Protein building blocks of hair that link together to form tiny protein fibers. |
| Peptide Bonds | Aka:End Bonds Connect amino acids (end to end) that form polypeptides. |
| Polypeptide Chain | Spiraling chain of amino acids; joined together by peptide bonds. |
| Side Bonds | Aka:Cross Bonds Connect polypeptide chains side by side; responsible for strength and elasticity. |
| Hydrogen Bonds | Physical side bond (cross bond)easily broken by water or heat; reforms when hair cools and/or dries - easily broken -33% of hair's strength & elasticity. |
| Salt Bond | Weak physical side bonds (cross bonds) easily broken by change in pH; reform when pH balance is restored. 33% of hair's strength & elasticity. |
| Disulfide Bond | Strong chemical side bonds that can only be broken by chemical solutions. 33%of hair's strength & elasticity. |
| Occupational Disease | Any illness caused by overexposure to certain products or ingredients. |
| Physical Mixtures | Consists of two or more types of matter that are blended together, but not chemically altered; each part in the mixture maintains its own properties. |
| Miscible | When a substance is able to be mixed with another substance. |
| Immiscible | When a substance is not able to mix with another substance. |
| Potential Hydrogen (pH) | A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. |
| pH Scale | A scale ranging from 0 to 14 that measures if a product is an acid (0-6.9), an alkaline (7.1-14), or neutral (7). |
| Chemical Relaxing | To chemically alter naturally curly or wavy hair into a straighter form. |
| Normalizing Lotion | Solutions with an acid pH that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer. |
| Neutralizing Shampoo | Used to help remove any remaining chemicals left in the hair after a chemical relaxer and to restore hair to normal acidic pH. |
| Base Cream | Aka:Protective Base Cream An oily cream applied on the scalp/skin to protect from the chemicals in the relaxer. |
| Neutralizing | Aka:Rebonding Chemically restoring disulfide bonds to harden into a new shape. |
| Hydroxide Neutralization | |
| Aka:acid/alkali neutralization reaction It neutralizes any remaining alkaline residue left by the hydroxide relaxer and helps to restore the pH of the hair and scalp. | |
| Lanthionization | The process of removing one sulfur atom and replacing it with a disulfide bond. |
| Viscosity | Measurement of how thick or thin a liquid is, and how that affects the liquid's flow. |
| Amonium Thioglycolate | A combination of ammonia and thioglycolic acid that creates a reducing agent used in permanent waves and relaxers. |
| Ammonium Bisulfate Relaxer | A mild, alternative relaxer containing a low pH compatible with thio relaxers. |
| Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) | A strong alkaline ingredient used in chemical relaxers. |
| Guanidine Relaxer | Relaxer requiring the mixing of two products; advertised as 'no-lye' for sensitive skin. |
| Potassium Hydroxide/Lithium Hydroxide | A very strong alkaline ingredient used in chemical relaxers; typically marketed as no-mix, no lye. |
| Base Relaxer | Requires a porcine base cream to be applied to the hairline and scalp; when a relaxer is labeled 'base relaxer', it means the relaxer is too strong to be applied without the application of a base cream. |
| No-Base Relaxer | Aka:No-Lye Relaxer Do not require a base cream to be applied to the skin or scalp. |
| Thioglycolate Relaxers | Aka:Thio Relaxers Chemical compounds with the additive ingredient ammonia; considered to be a no-lye relaxer, suitable for soft curl reformation. |
| Formaldehyde | Am organic compound that is colorless, flammable and pungent gas; present in the air and many food and beauty products. |
| Aldehyde | Results from oxidation of primary alcohols; there are several other chemicals in the class of highly reactive chemical compounds (composed of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen) |
| Formaldehyde Free | Products are manufactured 'without' the use of formaldehyde but could omit a formaldehyde gas upon use. |
| Permanent waving | Chemically rearranging straight hair into a curly or wavy form. |
| Protective Cream | A cream barrier adopted around the hairline and ears to protect the skin from permanent wave lotions or haircolor. |
| Neutralizer | Chemical solution that stops the waving process of a permanent wave; rebuilds the bonds into their new form. |
| Thio Neutralization | The process of stopping a permanent wave and reforming the hair into its new curly shape. |
| Test Curl | Determines the required processing time and ensures that the desired curl has been achieved for a permanent wave service. Unwrap 1 1/2 times. |
| Alkaline waves | Aka: cold waves Processed without heat; the main ingredient is thioglycolic acid. 8.5-9.5 |
| Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG) | The main active ingredient in true acid waves. |
| True Acid Waves | Permanent waves processed with the application of heart that have a pH range between 4.5 to 7; the main ingredient is typically glyceryl monothioglycolate; these acid waves process slower than alkaline waves. |
| Acid Balance Waves | Permanent waves processed without heat that have a pH ranging between 7.0 to 8.2; produce a firmer curl and process more quickly than true acid waves |
| Endothermic Wave | Processed by the application of heat; hood dryer, heat processor. |
| Exothermic Wave | Processed by chemical reaction that releases heat; self-heating. |
| Ammonia-Free Waves | Use an ingredient other than ammonia to reduce the odor associated with ammonia perms. |
| Concave Rod | A perm rod that has a small diameter in the center and a larger diameter increase throughout the length. |
| Straight rod | A perm rod that has an even diameter/width throughout the entire rod length |
| Bender rod | Aka:flexible rods Foam covered perm rods that are easily bent into different shapes and used for permanent waving |
| Loop rod | Aka:circle rod Long, plastic rod that is used to create shoal curls. |
| Sponge rod | Pliable foam rods that allow hair to v be chemically altered, creating a soft-end result. |
| Double flat wrap | Requires hair to be placed between two end papers, one on each side of the hair stand. |
| Book end wrap | Requires only one paper, which is folded in half much like a book. |
| Single flat wrap | Requires only one paper used in conjuction with either the double end or book end wraps. |
| Croquignole Wrap | Wrapping hair from ends to scalp in overlapping concentric layers. |
| Spiral wrap | Consists of wrapping the hair at an angle other than parallel to the length of the rod, which will create a coiling effect of the hair. |
| Base Direction | The position of the poem rod : horizontal, vertical, or diagonal, within a section and/or parting. |
| Base Section | The subsections listed within a larger panel section; the hair is divided into smaller subsections that hold one perm rod each |
| Base Control | Aka:Base Placement The position of the tool in relation to its bar section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
| Basic Perm Wrap | Aka:straight set wrap or 9 block wrap Controlled seconds of hair in which perm rods are placed in rectangular shaped subsections. |
| Curvature perm wrap | Consists of partings that follow the shape of your guest's head. |
| Bricklay Perm Wrap | Perm rods are placed within a staggered patten of subsections. |
| Weave perm wrap | Wrapping consisting of controlled subsections of hair that replaces straight partings with 'zigzag' partings. |
| Soft curl reformation | A chemical texture service the restructures overly curly hair into lose curls or waves. |
| Porosity | The ability of thathe hair |