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Hair Structure & pH
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| protein/polypeptide chain | long chains of amino acids linked together end to end by peptide bonds |
| amino acid | a compound made of carbon, oxygen hydrogen, and nitrogen, building blocks of proteins |
| peptide bond/end bond | link amino acids together end to end in long chain to form the primary structure of a protein |
| hydrogen bonds | weak physical bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges of Hydrogen and an electron ‘greedy’ atom. Easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling) and reform as the hair dries or cools |
| ion | positively or negatively charged atom Made by removing or adding electrons = ionization |
| potential hydrogen (pH) | the measure of acidity or alkalinity of a substance by measuring the amount of [H+] & [OH-] ions present. Scale ranges from 0-14 |
| acids | substances that release hydrogen ions (H+) in solution. Cause hair to contract and harden, Range from 0-6.9 on scale |
| alkalis/bases | substances that release hydroxide (OH-) ions in solution. Cause hair to soften and swell, Range from 7.1-14 on scale |
| neutral substances | substances that contain equal number of [H+] & [OH-] ions, 7 on the pH scale. |
| neutralization | occurs when an acidic substance is added to an alkaline/basic substance and vice versa. Produces water and a salt. |
| hair shaft | Portion of hair extending from scalp (visible portion) |
| hair root | Portion of hair that is beneath the scalp |
| hair follicle | tube-like depression in the skin; produces the new cells that will become the hair as they die off. |
| cuticle | thin, outermost layer of hair made of scale-like cells. Provides shiny, smooth, silky look when laying flat |
| cortex | middle, largest layer of hair made of fibrous protein & cells containing melanin pigment |
| medulla | innermost layer of hair Only found in thick, coarse hair |
| side bonds | disulfide, salt and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together |
| disulfide bonds | strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together Can only be broken by chemicals, not heat or water |
| salt/ionic bonds | weak physical side bonds that are the result of attraction between positive and negative electrical charges. Easily broken by changes in pH |
| keratin | tough, fibrous, water-proofing protein of the hair and skin. Makes up a large part of the cortex |
| melanin | protein that gives the hair, skin, and eyes its pigment, found in the cortex layer of the hair |
| vellus hair | short, fine, unpigmented hair that helps with temperature regulation |
| terminal hair | long, coarse, pigmented hair that provides protection against foriegn particles, assistance with sensory perception, and temperature regulation |
| anagen | the growing phase of hair that 90% of hair are in at any given time; usually lasts about 3-5 years |
| catagen | brief transition phase between growth and resting phase of hair, only about 1% of hair are in at any given time; lasts about 1-2 weeks |
| telogen | the resting phase of hair where the hair sheds or awaits shedding; less than 10% of hair are in the phase at any given time; lasts about 3-6 months |
Created by:
kcarpenter