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chapter 21 haircolor
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| activators | Also known as boosters, protinators, or accelerators; powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability. |
| aniline derivatives | Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex. |
| baliage | Also known as free-form technique; painting a lightener (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair. |
| base color | Predominant tone of a color. |
| cap technique | Lightening technique that involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, and then combing them to remove tangles. |
| color fillers | Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair. |
| complementary colors | A primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel. |
| conditioner fillers | Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand and scalp to ends. |
| contributing pigment | Also known as undertone; the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process. |
| demipermanent haircolor | Also known as no-lift deposit-only color; formulated to deposit but not lift (lighten) natural hair color. |
| developers | Also known as oxidizing agents or catalysts; when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color. |
| double-process application | Also known as two-step coloring; a coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is prelightened before the depositing color is applied to the hair. |
| fillers | Used to equalize porosity. |
| foil technique | Highlighting technique that involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap. |
| glaze | A nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair. |
| hair color | The natural color of hair. |
| hair lightening | Also known as bleaching or decolorizing; chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial haircolor from the hair. |
| haircolor | Professional, salon industry term referring to artificial haircolor products and services. |
| haircolor glaze | Common way to describe a haircolor service that adds shine and color to the hair. |
| highlighting | Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth. |
| highlighting shampoo | Colors prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo. |
| hydrogen peroxide developer | Oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color. |
| intensity | The strength of a color |
| law of color | System for understanding color relationships. |
| level | The unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. |
| level system | System that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color. |
| lighteners | Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. |
| line of demarcation | Visible line separating colored hair from new growth. |
| metallic haircolors | Also known as gradual haircolors; haircolors containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air creating a dull, metallic appearance. |
| mixed melanin | Combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin. |
| natural haircolors | Also known as vegetable haircolors; colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants. |
| new growth | Part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored. |
| off-the-scalp lighteners | Also known as quick lighteners; powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp. |
| on-the-scalp lighteners | Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with activators. |
| patch test | Also known as a predisposition test; test required by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act for identifying a possible allergy in a client. |
| permanent haircolors | Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more alkaline than no-lift deposit-only colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer. |
| prelightening | First step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner. |
| presoftening | Process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color. |
| primary colors | Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors. |
| resistant | Hair type that is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate, and thus requires a longer processing time. |
| reverse highlighting | Also known as lowlighting; technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color. |
| secondary color | Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. |
| semipermanent haircolor | No-lift deposit-only nonoxidation haircolor that is not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos. |
| single-process haircoloring | Process that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application. |
| slicing | Coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1D8-inch (0.3 centimeters) section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color. |
| soap cap | Combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo used the last five minutes and worked through the hair to refresh the ends. |
| special effects haircoloring | Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring. |
| strand test | Determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair. |
| temporary haircolor | Nonpermanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing. |
| tertiary color | Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. |
| tone | Also known as hue; the balance of color. |
| toners | Semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors. |
| virgin application | First time the hair is colored. |
| volume | Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide. |
| weaving | Coloring technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to these strands. |
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kcapers