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GIA Chapter 16

QuestionAnswer
The standard round brilliant has eight pavilion main facets. But the number of pavilion main facets can vary for different brilliant-cut fancy shapes. The shaded areas show four pavilion mains on an oval, seven on a pear, and six on a marquise.
Princess cuts provide a look that’s very different from round diamonds without sacrificing brilliance. Jewelry featuring princess cuts, like the three-stone anniversary ring, has grown in popularity.
Radiant-cut diamonds Sq or rect mixed cut w/ beveled corners. The Radiant’s angular shape and brilliant-cut facets make it a scintillating alternative to the emerald cut. They have step cut facets on the crown and brilliant-cut facets on the pavilion.
The Radiant cut Radiants retain about 60 percent of the rough from which they’re cut. The Radiant cut can be used to concentrate color and shift a diamond into the fancy-color category.
The trilliant or trillion-cut The triangular brilliant’s facets add sparkle to its angular shape. It’s a shallow cut that’s designed to make efficient use of flat rough, and it’s a practical cutting option for a macle.
The cushion cut is a classic brilliant cut. It’s generally either rectangular or square, with slightly curved sides and rounded corners. The traditional trade term for the brilliant-cut cushion is “antique cushion.”
The belly The slightly curving center of the long side of a pear, marquise, heart, or oval.
French tips A faceting style that replaces the large bezel facets at the points of marquises, pears, and hearts with star and upper girdle facets.This faceting style protects the points of marquises, pears, and hearts.
What are the rules for clarity grading for fancy cuts? Most rules for grading are the same - size, number, position, nature, & color or relief—& for both types, 10X examination is the one that decides the clarity grade. But there are a few extra considerations for fancy cuts.
Because of its large table and the fact that it has a different pattern of reflections than a round brilliant, a step cut tends to reveal even minor characteristics. Is this true for billiant fancy cuts too? The opposite can be true 4 brilliant fancy cuts. For ie, inclusions might be hard to see in the pnts of hearts,marquises,&pears, esp w/French tips.Study the tips of these cuts carefully, since inclusions can present durability as well as clarity concerns.
Fancy cuts are typically cut from irregular rough, so they often have clarity characteristics caused by structural irregularities, like the reflective grain lines seen across this pear’s table.
marquises, hearts, and pears Graders carefully examine the tips because inclusions are more difficult to see under points.
Why do graders usually base a fancy cut’s color grade on the amount of color they see in the pavilion in the diagonal direction. That’s because color can be more concentrated in the lengthwise direction and less concentrated at the stone’s width.
Variations in cut might cause the color of faint yellow or darker diamonds to weaken when they’re viewed through the pavilion, so graders also check color in the face-up position. If the color looks darker than it did when the stone was face-down, they adjust the grade, but never by more than one full grade.
Bow-ties In some pears, ovals, marquises, and hearts, a dark bow-tie appears across the width of the diamond. This is especially common in stones that are very shallow or very deep. The bow-tie’s darkness and size determine its effect on a diamond’s appearance
pavilion bulge A step cut’s pavilion should slope gently from girdle to culet. Excessive bulge, shown by gray areas outside the outline, adds to a diamond’s weight without contributing to its beauty.
effect of pavilion bulge Excess pavilion bulge increases unplanned light leakage and adds weight.
Length-to-width ratio A numerical expression of the relationship between the length and width of a fancy cut, where the value for width is one.
To color-grade fancy cuts, graders look at them face-down and diagonally, and also consider face-up color
Shape appeal —A diamond’s overall attractiveness in relation to others of the same shape and cutting style.
FINISH Finish is graded basically the same way in both rounds and fancy cuts. As with rounds, the category consists of two parts— polish and symmetry. Just as with rounds, fancy-cut diamond polish is rated Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor.
Polish variations for fancy cuts are the same as they are for rounds. They include abrasions, nicks, pits, polish marks or lines, rough girdles, and any scratches that aren’t recorded under the clarity category.
Graders evaluate symmetry in fancy cuts in much the same way as they do in rounds. Symmetry means balance, so judging symmetry involves looking carefully at all symmetry aspects that pertain to a specific stone’s shape and cutting style. Those symmetry variations include: Off-center table (T/oc),Table and girdle not parallel (T/G),Wavy girdle (WG),Culet or keel off-center (C/oc),Culet placement on pears and hearts (CPl),Uneven bulge on step cuts (UB),Uneven Outline (UO)
Common Shape appeal considerations Narrow or no corners on step cuts,Wide corners on step cuts,High shoulders on pears and ovals, Flat wings on marquises, pears,& hearts,Bulged wings on marquises, pears, and hearts,Undefined points on marquises, pears, and hearts, Misshapen lobes on hearts
The most popular step cut is the emerald cut. The emerald cut’s four sides have beveled corners. There are two, three, or four concentric rows of facets, parallel to the girdle, on the crown and pavilion.
Keel lines (shown in red) cross the pavilions of most fancy cuts. The bottom of a fancy cut, where the pavilion facets meet, is called the keel line. It runs the length of the stone and sometimes includes or passes through the culet.
Shoulders The curved edges between the head and the belly of a pear or oval are called shoulders.
Head The rounded end of a pear
Lobes The rounded portions of a heart shape
Cleft the V-shaped indentation between the lobes
Wing The area between the belly and the point is called the wing.
Created by: jlgulledge
 

 



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