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Textiles Exam 2
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Spun yarn | -yarns made from staple fibers which are held together by twist |
| Filament yarn | -made from continuous filaments of fiber that may be miles long. Since the filaments are very long, minimal twist is required. |
| Novelty yarn | -these do not have a uniform thickness but have deliberate irregularities on their surfaces. These may be knots, slubs, bumps, etc. |
| Blended yarns | -a yarn made up of two or more fibers. This can be a spun or a filament yarn, but spun yarns are the type most used for blending. |
| Stretch yarns | -yarns that have the capability to be elastic. Generally contain spandex fibers or have a configuration and characteristics that will promote elasticity |
| Microfiber yarn | -a yarn that is comprised of filaments that are very fine (less than or equal to one denier). |
| Worsted yarn | -yarn comprised of the longer wool fibers. These fibers have gone through a carding and combing process to produce the yarn. |
| Woolen yarn | -yarn comprised of the shorter wool fibers. These yarns have only gone through a carding process to produce the yarn. |
| Carded cotton yarn | -yarn comprised of the shorter cotton fibers. These yarns have only gone through a carding process to produce the yarn. |
| Combed cotton yarn | -yarn comprised of very long cotton fibers. These fibers have gone through a carding and combing process to produce the yarn |
| Low twist | -½ to 1 TPI |
| Soft Twist | -2 to 12 TPI |
| High twist | -20 to 30 TPI |
| Texturing | -the process where a multifilament yarn is altered from smooth, lustrous and flat to crimped, soft and dull. It approaches the characteristics of a spun yarn |
| Ply yarns | -two or more yarns twisted together -cost is significantly increased when using a plied yarn. -the thinner weaker spots of the singles yarn are reinforced. This makes for a stronger, more uniform yarn. |
| Direct system | -. used primarily for filament yarns. The weight of the yarn is directly proportional to the unit length. The higher the yarn number, the heavier the yarn. -Tex system and Denier system |
| Indirect system | -used primarily for spun yarns. The weight of the yarn is inversely proportional to the unit length. The higher the yarn number, the lighter the yarn. -Cotton system and worsted system and woolen system |
| Filament yarn designation | -Filament yarn designation 150-34-1/2-Z Denier # #filaments TPI twist direction |
| Cotton system designation | -20/1 20TPI S -Yarn number/# of plys, turns per inch, and twist direction |
| Worsted yarn designation | -1/30 12TPI S -Plys/Yarn #, turns per inch, twist direction |
| Advantages of plied yarns | -Greater strength, eliminate weak spots, and create a more uniform diameter |
| Advantage of novelty yarns | -Very difficult for competition to knock off or copy your product -Achieve a unique look |
| Disadvantages of novelty yarns | -Little abrasion resistance -Expensive |
| Woven fabric | -made by interlacing of two sets of yarns which are at right angles to each other -greater stretch in the filling direction due to the tension placed on the warp yarns during production |
| Warp yarns | -vertical yarns in a woven fabric |
| Filling yarns | -horizontal yarns in a woven fabric |
| End | -an individual warp yarn |
| Pick | -an individual filling yarn |
| Selvege | -a lengthwise edge of the fabric |
| Face | - thefaceisthesidewherethewarpyarns show the most. If the fabric is finished in such a way that the pattern shows clearer on one side, then that side is the face. |
| Reversible fabric | -one where both sides are identical and the warp yarns show evenly on both sides. |
| Single faced fabric | -one where the warp yarns show more on one side than the other and both sides do not look the same. |
| Two faced fabric | -one where the warp yarns show evenly on both sides and both sides do not look the same. |
| One way fabric | -one where there is a definite top and bottom due to design features. |
| Two way fabric | -one where the top can’t be differentiated from the bottom. |
| Yarns/inch | -as the yarns per inch increase, the fabric becomes stronger, stiffer, heavier, more expensive and more abrasion resistant. |
| Plain weave | -where every end interlaces with every pick. The first end goes under one pick and over the next and then repeats the process. -All plain woven fabrics( unless finished with a specific pattern) are reversible and two way fabrics. |
| Rib weave | -a variation of the plain weave where two or more ends interlace with one pick or when two or more picks interlace with one end This is not a plain weave. -Are reversible and two way fabrics. |
| Basket weave | - a variation of the plain weave where two or more ends interlace with two or more picks. This is not a plain weave. -Are reversible and two way fabrics |
| Twill weave | -fabrics made with a twill weave are characterized by diagonal lines in the fabric -can be single faced or two faced, never reversible. -Are two way fabrics |
| Broken twill | -combining a right handed and left handed twill weave -Ex: herringbone |
| Color and weave pattern | -a pattern produced by using one of the basic weaves in conjunction with different colored yarns in the warp and filling. |
| Satin weave | -a weave characterized by a minimum number of interlacings. This produces a minimum of four floats. A twill effect is not created. |
| Float | -when a filling or warp yarn goes over or under more than one warp or filling yarn. -The longer the floats in the fabric, the more flexible and lustrous the fabric is |
| Satin fabric | -A fabric made with a satin weave using filament yarns |
| Sateen fabric | -A fabric made with a satin weave using spun yarns |
| Dobby fabric | -a fabric which has a small woven in pattern. Usually, but not always, a geometric pattern -comprised of two or more of the basic weave structures |
| Jacquard fabric | -a fabric which has a large woven in pattern -comprised of two or more of the basic weaves |
| Pile fabrics | -fabrics with a raised surface using extra yarns -One way fabrics |
| Terrycloth | -an uncut pile fabric with loops on the surface created by an extra set of warp yarns -Generally used for towels due to increased absorption |
| Velvet | -a cut warp pile fabric using filament yarns made by the double cloth method. Velvet is always a one way fabric as the pile lies in one direction after it undergoes the various finishing processes. |
| Corduroy | -medium-weight cotton fabric with lengthwise wales produced by cutting the pile filling yarns -Used for slacks and jackets |
| Velveteen | -a cut pile fabric using spun yarns. When compared to Velvet, Velvet has a much more lustrous, deeper and denser pile |
| Leno fabric | -one made by twisting two warp yarns together and then passing a filling yarn through |
| Core spun yarn | -have a central core of one fiber, and another fiber twisted around that central core |
| Seam slippage | -this happens to filament yarns because they are smooth and have less friction hold the fabric together |
| Crepe | -as we add more twist it increases the price of the yarn and this fabric uses a significant amount of twist to create a textured effect |
Created by:
alkoons