Rock Climbing
Help!
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| belay anchors - SRENE - S | secure
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| belay anchors - SRENE - R | redundant (minimum of two of everything)
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| belay anchors - SRENE - E | equalized (each piece shares the load)
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| belay anchors - SRENE - NE | no extension (no shock loading if one fails)
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| belay anchors - no more than how many degrees apart? | 90
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| belay anchor systems - DO NOT USE, not redundant, not equalized, shock load to the maximum | american death triangle
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| belay anchor systems - not recommended, shock loads | sliding x (equalized anchor)
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| belay anchor systems - sometimes used | slings as anchors
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| belay anchor systems - recommended | cordelette
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| fall factor formula | length of fall over length of rope out
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| rappel system - BARK | buckle, anchor, rappel device, knot
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| knots - tie into rope | figure 8
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| knots - anchor knot (3) | figure 8 on a bight, girth hitch, clove hitch
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| equipment strength - harness | 7000 lbs
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| equipment strength - rope | 2000 lbs, 4000 lbs static stength
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| equipment strength - regular carabiners | 4000 lbs, 1300 lbs open
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| equipment strength - locking carabiners | 5000 lbs, 2000 lbs open
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| equipment strength - hex nuts | 750 lbs to 3500 lbs (depending on size)
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| equipment strength - camming units | 750 lbs to 4000 lbs (depending on size)
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| equipment strength - sewn runners | about 4000 lbs
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| maximum fall force a human can withstand without injury | 2697.6 lbs
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