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Rock Climbing

QuestionAnswer
belay anchors - SRENE - S secure
belay anchors - SRENE - R redundant (minimum of two of everything)
belay anchors - SRENE - E equalized (each piece shares the load)
belay anchors - SRENE - NE no extension (no shock loading if one fails)
belay anchors - no more than how many degrees apart? 90
belay anchor systems - DO NOT USE, not redundant, not equalized, shock load to the maximum american death triangle
belay anchor systems - not recommended, shock loads sliding x (equalized anchor)
belay anchor systems - sometimes used slings as anchors
belay anchor systems - recommended cordelette
fall factor formula length of fall over length of rope out
rappel system - BARK buckle, anchor, rappel device, knot
knots - tie into rope figure 8
knots - anchor knot (3) figure 8 on a bight, girth hitch, clove hitch
equipment strength - harness 7000 lbs
equipment strength - rope 2000 lbs, 4000 lbs static stength
equipment strength - regular carabiners 4000 lbs, 1300 lbs open
equipment strength - locking carabiners 5000 lbs, 2000 lbs open
equipment strength - hex nuts 750 lbs to 3500 lbs (depending on size)
equipment strength - camming units 750 lbs to 4000 lbs (depending on size)
equipment strength - sewn runners about 4000 lbs
maximum fall force a human can withstand without injury 2697.6 lbs
Created by: hardcoresoccer07 on 2009-08-04



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